FridgeFreezer

I'd stick a bung just after the Y. If you want to monitor each bank, stick a pair of bungs just before the Y. Mind you, if you can't tune each bank separately there's not a lot of point measuring them separately What's your ECU?

Sweeping generalisations are never correct I think this thread has wandered off and got lost - we're not going to find out any juicy gossip (if any exists) about why SR and the AWDC have gone solo so to speak. As for entering SR supported events, everyone seems to to be in agreement - those who don't like SR won't enter their events, sorted.

Sounds like a good excuse to buy some tools and learn the hard way not much point scrapping it and buying another as it'll only have the same problem. I thought there was a company that did a complete chassis swap service for around £2k?

It's a smart little thing but does make me wonder if it's really worth £220 when you can buy a used Toughbook with a bigger screen for less, or a brand new full size laptop for £330. Incidentally, all this talk of solid-state HDD's being more robust is fine but has anyone ever read the impact specs for a 2.5" hard drive? The manufacturers rate them for 250G shocks during operation, it would take a case-crushing impact to upset a HDD, let alone cause serious damage, at which point you've got bigger problems anyway.

I reckon Range rover diffs would be the best option if it's not used much off-road and you don't have too many steep hills. They will raise all the gearing, cost less than an OD and won't whine like an OD. Mind you, if it's a stock 88 then just fitting slightly larger tyres such as 7.50's would raise the gearing about 10-15%. Don't bother with hubs, they are rubbish (they leak, they are a weak point, they are inconvenient) and frankly I don't think they make any noticeable impact on fuel economy.

Sensors are in! Will test them tomorrow! Are you saying they weren't in before?

I'd consolidate the M5 engine & box into a 110 for maximum laugh

Pugwash - Big Agnes come very highly recommended from a mate of mine who went camping in Norway recently. His was a 3-season bag and he said it was toasty warm at -20C He also said he doesn't fit in normal sleeping bags but fits in their "normal" size with room to spare, you can tell they're for an American market

Any LT230 is doable, yes. How-to is here.

RR diffs would be weaker than salisbury, much of the rest is equal. I agree though, if you're breaking stock parts in one flavour LR axle you're likely to break them in another - have done and fit something stronger.

I can confirm it's entirely possible with a V8

I can stand on mine

No it wouldn't fit, hence why TDi auto bits are like gold dust at the moment until the next big thing is going manual Would you believe some people have accused me of being cynical?

Welcome to the 20th century

You could always use adapters, it's not ideal but it would save buying new wheels.

@ Jez The front-to-rear swap is a good one, Mike's Tomcat is done this way.

Well I've got the leave booked (snuck it in while everyone else is arguing over Christmas leave ) - see you there B)

Another vote for Vango, actually got mine from an army-surplus stall at gaydon a couple of years ago when I was freezing my ar5e off in the tent with my old sleeping bag.

There's no SWMBO in my household (and before some smart-arse suggests it there's no HWMBO either ) so the only domestic appliances likely to find their way in would be workshop luxuries rather than household necessities. Cheers for the lock links Paul, very handy!

I have a collection of pullers (and hammers) too if you need

Jeebus, step away from the pram Whether they make money or not I'd rather not "support" in whatever form that may take, events run primarily by SR as I find their business ethics... well, I have yet to find any ethics to their business However I am happy to support Neil & the AWDC, and anyone else who isn't a twunt who is working to raise the profile of off-roading and the challenge format.

How handy

Depends what you're doing, if you're just tightening/loctiting the pinion flange to the shaft then you can do it in-situ, all you need is an effin' big breaker bar and (IIRC) a 32mm socket. A new pinion oil seal would probably be a worthwhile investment while you've got it apart. If you need a hand I'm happy to help - I have a breaker bar and the relevant socket, not to mention a good supply of colourful language

Hurrah, I'm officially not the saddest person on here Only just, I know...

They're about £eeek, do this instead.