FridgeFreezer

Be sure to say "hi", we're usually found at the Shire Shed (AKA the club trailer) during signing in, and then driving round marshaling as soon as Mike shouts "go"

Bizarre then that Paul, Rich and Mike's vehicles have all kept their original registration plates as RR/discos despite having altered bodywork, after taking them to the DVLA. Wonder what was so different about the VOD or perhaps just that copper was an arse?

David - I don't doubt your expertise but it's an amazing coincidence that you also happen to sell teflon/stainless hoses

ISTR stainless is not equal to steel, either through being more brittle or such like (I'm sure a metallurgist will be along in a minute). Also it's further from Ali in the galvanic corrosion stakes so may accelerate corrosion.

Never heard of ATF eating hydro hose, my PAS is plumbed in with hydro hose and runs ATF, not noticed any degradation RR auto oil coolers are half plumbed with rubber hose too.

Is this a round hole? If so, I've not seen a 2.5" cone bit. Hole saw (used very carefully) may be your only chance given the shape of the panel unless you know someone with a plasma cutter. If it was a flat panel I'd say Q-Max punch every time.

Switch intermittent wipe on, switch it off again until you want it to wipe, switch it back on it remembers how long it was off for and repeats until you turn it off again.

And the box tells you which cars to swipe them from at the scrappy, cool!

Damn I'm good

I wish it was a lucky guess - unfortunately it's far sadder than that

Pretty sure they're 17mm head which would be about right for M10.

That's what you get for being too lazy to transfer the numbers

I guess we'll see - if he doesn't find either flavour of airflow meter under the bonnet we'll know it's GEMS

For the rear I'd just bolt a pin hitch to the back with decent bolts & spreader plate - since you are asking the question I'm guessing you're not about to do anything massively super-extreme with it anyway. Hitches are about £15, spreader plates a couple of quid, bolts the same.

The airflow meter will either be the old type (flapper, named because it measures airflow with a sprung flap) or hotwire, named because it measures airflow using a heated wire. Which type you have will tell us which EFI system your car is running: It's located in the big air hose between the air filter and the plenum chamber, should be easy to spot.

So... Is it hotwire? (if you don't know it can be explained but it will help with diagnosis) Cap on fuel rail - what is this? I'm not aware of the V8 fuel rail having a cap at any point. If you're unscrewing the fuel temperature sensor at the front of the plenum then you are out of luck, there is no direct contact with fuel through that hole. The fuel pump will not run until the ECU turns it on, I don't remember if there is a priming pulse but if not it will not run until the ECU thinks the engine is turning.

<tiptoes past worms> This is a tricky one, the law being the ass it is in this country there are so many loopholes and interpretations, plus gaps between things like MOT & SVA you could park a highly modified double-decker bus in. If it was built before a certain time (pre-SVA) then it didn't need one and should probably have a Q plate. The age related plate is obviously just there for tax purposes and IMHO is more likely to spark the interest of the man from the DVLA/VOSA than if it was on a later plate. If you stick to the letter of the law almost no-one on the scene has a 100% legal truck - even if you SVA'd it there are things that get done to pass an SVA and then put back to "normal" again afterwards. The kit car boys do it all the time. This will really come down to what the vehicle is like, how well it's built, and how far you feel like pushing your luck (and being tax-free you're already registering half way up the DVLA cheeky-o-meter). If the thing's a death trap then SVA or not the insurance will kick off if you prang it / kill someone.

Wot Jules said - people are terrified of the 1.8 for no good reason IMHO, so it's a buyer's market and you could get a real bargain. If you're really worried get a decent mechanic to fit the latest gasket & stiffer thingummyjig when you first buy it. There are anough 1.8 K-series out there in Rovers, Caterhams, Lotus... those guys seem to rate the latest LR head gasket as the solution to the problem. I'm loving mine, it's a great little runabout.

I'm no expert but if the LED ain't flashing that suggests the remote isn't working. Without seeing it this could be a daft question but are you sure the battery(ies) are in properly, not touching any metal parts they shouldn't be, and that the contacts are good? LED's don't generally burn out so if it's not flashing I'd suspect something up with the fob.

Will Sir be donating to forum funds for that advert? Andy - you need to talk to Dave H about his dash-mount single-DIN pastie microwave plans. Knowing Dave he had a parts list worked out and has probably got the CAD plans of it to hand

I'll bring the camera

Tricky one, 2nd hand ones are cheap enough so it's down to how much you trust any given seller. Rock Mountain make a Roverdrive for series which is supposed to be better than the old fairey ones, and the fairey ones are still in production, but for the price of either of them brand new you could buy an LT77/R380 and LT230 and 2WD kit and have 5-speeds, much stronger transmission and a choice of transfer box ratios, plus a lower low box. Fitting would be a bit more of a faff but if I had the best part of £1k to spend I wouldn't be buggering about with Series bits.

I'd vote for indoors too - mine lives in the dining room next to the welder. If you have a CSW you can mount it across the vehicle under the back seats, if not you may be able to mount it across the rear bulkhead.

Just follow Rich in the DLander, he's like you