FridgeFreezer

The clonk on engaging drive is the input gear to the L230, the splines inside wear out due to lack of lubrication. The answer is to fit a new cross-drilled one from Ashcrofts.

I'm coming along and so's Utteridge The Elder I believe Was hoping to prep the truck today but it's peeing down out there oh well at least it'll be wet at Bunny Lane, and I can see how much further the creepy crawlers get me

Not sure if this will help but I'll try to explain electricity to you... (this could go very wrong! ) Basically it's like water and wires are like pipes. A battery is like a tank of water on top of a tall thing. Ground is like the drain the water runs away to, completing the circuit - if there's nowhere for the water to go, nothing can flow. Volts are the pressure of the water, amps are the volume of flow of the water. A load or resistance (EG a bulb) is like a restriction in the pipe, it takes a bit of pressure to push the water through it. Watts are work done, and are Amps x Volts (or flow x pressure). A switch is like a valve. Your alternator is like a pump, keeping the tank topped up. A short circuit is like a break in the pipe - all the water flows out to the ground (electrically, something that is connected to the -ve terminal of the battery) so there is nothing left after the break for the load, 'cos it's easier for the water to fall out through the break than to get through the restriction that is the load. Your thought process is correct - if you keep disconnecting things, you are proving that that thing is not at fault. In the example above, a short circuit could be where a wire has rubbed against something or become damaged so the insulation has rubbed off and can then touch a part of the chassis or body - this means the electricity has no resistance between the wire (which wants to carry 12v of electricity to your lights and things) and the ground. Since it's far easier to flow straight to ground like this, all the electricity goes this way. As there's nothing to obstruct the flow (unlike a bulb, which has a filament with resistance), the only thing dictating the number of amps that will flow is how many your battery can provide (EG how big is the pipe from the water tank - answer: f'in big!). As the little wire can't handle this many amps, they stick a fuse on it. This gets hot and blows when it's limit is reached, preventing the wire getting hot and setting itself on fire. This is why putting a bigger fuse in is bad - the wire may melt before the fuse does.

It's not an MOT thing, they're just a dust/mud shield and I know lots of people who run without them. Are you talking swivel gaiters? I'd run without - unless they're 100% sealed, crud gets in but can't get out, and of course you can't *see* the crud or clean it off. Just run without and keep your balls clean

I dunno much but I too think you're potentially wasting time running twin pumps and V belts, they're not great at transmitting decent power as has been proved with big alternators. I'd look at a single big pump (a ZF74 is still only a PAS pump) crank driven, chain driven, or PTO driven (and live with limited assist).

Only if you fit a 90 roof as well.

You say 12v across the fuse terminals - does that mean you're putting one lead in each fuse terminal? if so that's not really going to tell you much except the load side is 12.4v lower than the supply side, but you knew that anyway because the load side has a short to ground (0v) somewhere. What you need to do is measure the resistance (Ohms / ) from the load side connection to ground (one lead to ground, one lead to the load side fuse connector pin, polarity isn't important). This will be a very low number, probably zero, because of the short (no resistance, see?). When you find (and cure) the short this number should increase.

There's a solution to that

I very much doubt it, and why bother with locking hubs anyway? They don't make any appreciable difference to anything and are just an extra point of failure.

Yes it's right, you may want to replace the oil seal on the hub when you do it but none of it is difficult or expensive. Oh and you need a 12-point socket for the disc bolts IIRC but no idea what size

True, but a 90 will fetch double what a rusty RR or Disco will - I'd check Corrode Finger's thread on building a hybrid from his old RR, it was done with minimum mucking about on a tight budget and he's kept the RR identity and almost all the parts. Just don't paint it the same colour PLEASE! Also, for far less than a 90 he's got a defender-alike with a 3.9 V8, auto box, discs all round, and room to swing a cat in the back.

If you're going to buy a new chassis, engine and axle why bother buying a rusty 90 in the first place? Just buy a rusty vehicle (Disco/RR) as the engine & drivetrain donor, build it onto a 90 chassis and buy some bodywork at Sodbury. Far cheaper and you're not scrapping most of a 90 that way. After all, in taking it apart you're going to find so much seized / non-reusable stuff that not much will make it's way into the rebuilt vehicle beyond the main panels, and even those may not be up to snuff by the time you've persuaded them off.

Because it's a blummin' ancient design, doesn't make much power for what it is and tuning bits cost a fortune. Not saying it's a bad engine, just that engine design & production has moved on - these days there are 2.0 4-pots that make better numbers than the RV8. It just happens the RV8 is a very convenient engine for Land Rover applications.

94% but I have just got in from the pub

If it helps they were only shells not full cars - still a bluddy shame though!

Zinc phosphate primer seems to work well, you may need thinners to go with though.

Amen to that, they're one of very few people I'd believe if they said an additive was worth it.

I'm normally of the opinion that the oil companies know enough about oil (and have big enough R&D budgets) to make it right without adding other stuff to the mix.

I'm pretty certain MTF is not the same as EP90, if Dan & Jen's experiences are anything to go by EP90 really screws things up.

David at Llama 4x4 should buy it Llama, see?

If it's a non-CSW chassis then it is not a straight replacement for a CSW chassis, there are quite a lot of bits in different places - already mentioned is the fact the MOD chassis have under-seat tanks and mounting a normal CSW rear tank would need extra brackets. My chassis is an MOD non-CSW one that now has a CSW body on it, which was also cheap on ebay so it can be done. I would keep hold of your old chassis to take measurements / copy brackets or even cut the required bits off if they are not too rusty.

Seems jerry cans are like some sort of low-grade drug where the law is concerned, it's fine to have one for personal use but not to use it, but if you do use it you're probably OK unless someone sees you filling it up in which case it's not OK.

Cool pics Darth, like the 2nd one down of the SJ, that's proper stuck I prefer this one of mine: At least it looks like I'm going in the right direction

First off, does the stat have a small bypass hole in it to allow a little flow even when the main part is closed? If not, you can get an airlock and then the stat opens too late (ask me how I know ) Second - your temperature gauge is probably not matched to the V8 sender. Third - your temperature gauge may be calibrated for a cooler stat than the V8 one, so the "normal" mark may well be at a lower temperature. Surefire cure for 2 & 3 is to buy an aftermarket gauge & sender that will tell you in degrees what the temperature is.

I don't know either - I bought one when they were £20 and thought it was great then, unfortunately I left it turned on in the loft for about a month without realising and it burned out so I went to replace it and ended up buying two just to have a spare. While you're in maplins buy the tip cleaner tinner thing too, it's a tiny metal tin (about the diameter of a 10p) containing a sort of solder/flux/mild abrasive paste and does exactly what it says on the tin