sutty_32

Nothing says birthday like a hog roast and beer :-) You could do a rally experience, or a friend did a stunt driving school which looked fun doing j-turns/handbrake turns/wheelie transit/push me pull me cars etc

Yeah saw them a while back, doesn't look that well made in the photo. It looks like he is a new seller, but I've seen them for sale on ebay before a while ago, and with being based in Lithuania not sure I'd expect great quality and after sales service.

Radio is usually quite an easy one to get to, and it also means nothing important dies if for some reason it does blow the fuse

Its not quite what you asked, but might be of use (assuming you haven't found it already) JLR careers I don't know anybody about to start on this particular role, but I am about to start as a graduate engineer and know quite a few people already working for JLR and they really enjoy the job and people. During the assesment day I was given the chance to have lunch with people already in the role, and I assume that would be true for any role you apply for. JLR also tend to pay fairly well, but I don't know how much you would be earning. Also looks like you might have to move house. Good luck in finding something!

You could fit some drop shock mounts and fit standard shocks. I don't think there are any different length shocks in the LR range, but would say RRC are the most likely as it the most articulation of any landy....or so I heard. There are other brands of shockers, but as you say they are usually more expensive than the procomps.

You could do this, would have the same effect and is a very simple solution for stopping accidental use. In my winch the solenoids are always earthed, but you could easily put a switch in the wire. The only issue with this is if one of the control solenoids latch/stick when the winch is being used (I have had this before, but its not common) then turning the earth off might not kill the winch, which is why for MSA regs you need a manual one of the main feed. I know having a relay in the main feed wouldn't meet MSA either, but it would/does kill the winch in this situation. You can get manual switches which are rated high enough for winches, can't remember where from though...

Body swap shoudln't be too bad, as the list mentions above there is just 2 (maybe only 1) plug for the diesel engine loom. I have done a chassis swap in a weekend with 4 of us, which we just lifted the body off as a whole with a fork lift, just be careful where you lift the body from as the roof/gutters can bend

I use one of these Seems reasonably priced, and allbright have a good reputation. The 180 is the continuous current rating, but for a few mins can pull much more. There are higher rated ones, but there is quite a jump in price. I have pulled some very stuck people out without it burning out. You could get a single warn winch solenoid, the type that make up the 4 pack of switches that run winches, and use on of those.

I've used a heavy duty relay for a winch isolator, means I can just have a low voltage switch in the cab, don't even need to get out Although relays can fail and latch open, its turned off most of the time and the chance of both the relay and winch buggering up at the same time is very slim I think.

Give Derek a ring, his number is on the lrs website. Really friendly bloke, I'm sure he fitted one to his/the shops 110 so he will be able to tell you all about it and send more photo's. If your close you could drop into his shop, or he might be at one the shows later in year.

body lift you just need to undo bolts, jack up body, fit spacers and bolt up. Don't think its too hard. There will be a gap between the body and bumpers, gearsticks will be slightly lower and there may be an issue with seat belt mounts and steering column, but I think they are ok with 2 inch bodylift, or you can buy extended bits of ebay for not much. Its done as it doesn't affect the steering geometry and prop angles, both of which can be rectified when fitting a suspension lift, but at cost. So a body lift is usually much cheaper than suspension lift. HTH

Try looking up your local MSA club, there should be a list on the MSA website split by region (I think). I'm sure there will be one near you that run the type of thing your after. I know the viking 4x4 club do run some events that might be of interest, but they would be a bit of trek for you as they will be in the midlands.

I use old fire blankets (as I have free source) but you might be able to find some cheap. In commercial places like old folks homes they need to be updated every so many years regardless of them just being sat there. They do the job quite nicely, and even use them to cover me when welding underneath the truck.

got standard size 4 inch in the front, and put 6x9's in the back. They needed a spacer and the trim cutting to fit. My back door sub was also broken so just put a standalond sub/box/amp combo off ebay for £40. It all sounds pretty good with a decent head unit and will go loud enough to drown out the squeaks, rattles and tyres There is an amp in the back door already for the standard sub, so you could use that assuming its still working, but it only works the two sub speakers in the door.

You will need a spacer for the flange, but that should come with the flange as its needed for all the 4 bolt flanges. Don't need any kind of spacer for the prop

I've also heard its simple enough if you've got the kit to lift the body. Try the disco3 forum. I think Bell Auto Services (BAS) are suppose to be pretty handy with the D3's and might be able to give some advice

They look like nice well made bits of kit, I especially like the way the roll cage is built into the rear tub, thinking of doing that on a challenge truck. Would prefer more defender style doors though so I don't have to hope over them to get in

Was thinking the 10inches would be lost a bit more in the boot space rather than leg room, but also wondered if this would leave the boot a bit useless

Wouldn't you need a disco or 110 as a starting point rather than the 90 pick up Cheers Grant, could maybe make the back doors a little larger and squeeze some seats in there, looks like a promising start! Thats what I'm thinking, they manage to fit seats and a decent sized door in a disco, so it must be possible, just need to judge the overhang on the rear too to get a decent boot

I think a trip to dunsfold for inspiration is in order then, cheers for the replies

Just while I was welding up the front arches on my disco the thought again came into my head of just throwing the body away and doing a 100inch hybrid project (and then promptly watched all of a 4x4 is born ) Thing is, I would quite like to keep the 4 door set up, and wondered if anybody has made a 4 door 100 inch, I've only seen 2 door versions. I've seen some piccy's of the original ones land rover did for the swiss and some were 4 door. I was thinking about getting a full 110 body and making the tub really small at the back and perhaps modifying the doors if needed.

I found the 8 inch wipacs pretty good, not a bad price either. The lightforce spots are supposed to be the nuts, and they should be for the price! I have 4 rectangular spots on the roof, the two outer ones light up both verges which is nice, and the other two go a little beyond the headlights, find it really good for county lanes but road signs blind you a bit! Its all lit up about the same as the standard headlights. The rooflights can be pointed where you like, and will go quite a way. They also don't get muddy when off roading, but not much good in the fog. HTH

and by loghts I mean lights Although not halogen ones, for some reason on the box the inverter came in it said not to plug halogens into it...

I got a 1kW inverter for the truck, didn't bother going for the fancy sin wave ones, just one from maplin. Works with everything I have plugged into it (laptop/phone/camera chargers, soldering irons/loghts) and I can power everything I could ever want from the truck (well, apart from a welder but thats not really going to happen ) I felt it was the biggest I could get without spending silly amounts of money

I haven't done the job myself, but I think you may just need to remove the carpet and a couple of bits of trim, not the entire dash. There are a few write ups on this forum of people going all out on welding up their disco's which are really helpful. You should be able to see if the dash is close enough to the repair that its going to start burning Good luck!