RPR

Jim, Have you got a part number for the rad that you bought?

Those are all good ideas. You might look at some large offset wheels as well. In combination with the spacers you would get improved lateral stability and improved turning circle and still run something like 235's. I had a good set of Mangels steel wheels that were pretty shaprly offset. Power steering would be high on my list anyway

http://overlandengineering.com/ Matt Browne in Eliot ME, just the other side of Portsmouth. Depending on what you want to do, he may be the chap you want to speak with. ECR do very good work and I don't know anyone who has been displeased with the results of what they have done. However, if your budget is less than stratospheric and you want to enjoy your rig while you're still young enough to drive it, they might not be your first choice. Matt put a 3.5 V8 in my SIII in front of my SIII gearbox and, with the overdrive, it is all I could ever want. I'm quite pleased with my parabolics on and offroad. As per the discussion above, it looks like you're trying to decide what you want out of your truck. If it's power, ease, and comfort, then putting your truck's body on a cut-down RRC may be just the ticket. On the other hand, consider some options. If you are going to have someone else/a shop do this for you, you need to think in the $12,000 range for a proper job. On the other hand @ $5,000 will likely get you all the ACR PowerPlus kit and give you a @ 110 bhp 2.25, a rebuilt gearbox, Roverdrive, and a set of parabolics and new shocks, plus some nice refurb. Maybe you should give Matt a call and have a chat about what he can do for you?

Average 924 furlongs per firkin. Marginally better than 8.5 MPG (US) but there's a lot of estimating in there....

Bill, I prefer to use firkins per furlong (fpf). This formula avoids all those pesky Imperial/Metric/Feedom Fries variances and results in a number so meaningless that I don't feel bad about the utter inefficiency of my rig.

Toy Halfshafts for Series Trucks Take it from one of the filth, dump the tin 10 spline halfshafts and North Korean diffs. You can try putting a 4 pin diff in the front but it won't help your halfshaft problem. Toyota halfshafts and a set of e-locker diffs will transferom your 88", and you can get rid of the ground clearance eating Sals.

I agree with the above. The other thing that I would add is that Series springs, standard or parabolic are short, therefore less flexy. Longer springs would also be another viable mod. I have RM parabolics, Revolver shackles, and long travel shocks. I get more travel than a Defender 90 with a 2"- 3" lift (retained springs) and offroad ride quality is about the same as said coiler. I use Land Rover rubber bushes.

KB, My Series box, of indeterminate suffix, has held up to the V8 so far, so why not check and service the SIII box while it's out/accessible for the engine swap and stick with it until it goes boom. Even then, a recon box is probably cheaper than buying a Santana Series box or doing an R380/LT230 conversion....

If you can't get it in the UK, then: Rovers North Hitches - bottom of the page Rover's North + 1 802 879-0032 It'll be the first time anyone has called from the UK to get a Land Roverpart!

Kevin, Unless you've flogged it with the engine, I would try to mate the pump you hav on the petrol 4 pot to the new engine - better the devil you know.... When I had the Toy pump on my old 2.25, we just fabbed a bracket as per Jon's suggestion above and it did rather nicely. I know you've had some "squeal" and may want to rectify that, but if you are happy with the PS you have now, I'd try to keep the pump.

SU's on yours? My Servo is in the upper left corner and the vacuum port is on the edelbrock manifold just below the carb.

I wouldn't worry about braking. That looks like a Rover gearbox, so it won't be going very fast before it explodes

FC101 - put a 12v Cummins Turbo Diesel and a TF727 in there and you have everything you need but comfort ... lol

Jim's correct of course - I assume the lift is on the 110? But a genuine 2" lift shouldn't really need cranked arms especially as you have more room to play with on a 110. At 3" you start needing to change stuff. Before doing that, try filling the rear end with a couple of hundred pounds of something or other and then bouncing it across a field for about 30 minutes. Leave the weight in the back overnight and then unload and drive it around a bit. If that doesn't settle the springs and you still have prop vibration, you may indeed need to adjust pinion angle.

There are ways to get a 110 in the US legally. In fact there are a few chaps importing the components and building them legally. Pop in over here: Pirate Read the check in post, get familiar with the forum and then ask. As a US based site, you will also be able to get some more specific answers to US specific issues and questions of availability. Good luck.

Bill - thanks for the views on the Detroit. Her Imperial Highness would not be amused by tricky behaviour in the wet on road to say the least. I had been led to believe that the new Detroits were more well behaved but in any event, this helps convince me of what I was already tending towards. Steve - Not far off on bolt-ons vs vehicle price The multi-mount winch would be for the Tonka, not the Disco. With 18" under the diff, if I'm burried up to the point where I can't get at a reciever at bumper level, well the winch won't be getting me out! On the front, it will sit on the breakfast so no impact on approach angle. To all - thanks. Another question for the electrically bright (pun, poor as it is, intended) among you. For the connections to the rear mount, would a set of jumper cables do for the limited use it would see or can they not take the power? I have a spare set and thought I could plumb them in rather than go out and buy welding cables...

I just bought this: '99 D1, 4.0, 5spd auto. It will be SWBO's daily driver/school run mobile and mall crawler, but she has agreed to some "modifications" for family offroading - stress on family offroading. My original thoughts were: 2" lift, 235/85's, Detroit rear, and 4.10 r&p. However, as several people have pointed out, the first thing I need to do is get some body protection: front and rear bumper (probably Rovertym front and TJM rear - any thoughts on the latter which must be sold in the UK as well?) sliders tank guard diff guards This starts adding up fairly quickly (about 1200 before shipping etc. just for bolt on armour), so I need to economize somewhat on these plans. I don't think she will want a winch, but as the bumper will be set up for one, I started thinking about skipping the rear Detroit and GBR/Ashcroft HD half shafts at this time (that's roughly 600 quid over here before shipping) and putting a winch on as the "traction aid". I have recently come across the Warn xd9000i multi-mount,Warn xd9000i mm which I have not seen before. I have had an xd9000i on the Tonka now for 4 years and while I am aware of it's limitations, I just don't have to use it that often . So I am considering putting the old xd9000i on the Disco and buying the new multimount jobbie (slots into a 2" reciever hitch at either end and moves back and forth). This is about 200 quid cheaper than the Detroit and GBR HD half shafts (comes with free shipping) and I get a new winch for the Tonka that I can move back and forth front and rear as needed (and since I tend to have to recover others not infrequently, that could be more useful than one may think). So, does anyone have any experience of this or other multi-mount winch systems - good, bad or indifferent? Am I deep in the midst of "gear ecstasy" and not thinking this through ? For a family wheeler and sandbag DD, a winch in lieu of a Detroit makes more sense, no?

Yes. MOAB Cliffhanger, get a Rubicon, do Clondike Bluffs/Tower Arch; Seven Mile Rim and/or Onion Creek up into the Manti-La Sal national Forest and the Rose Garden and Top of the World. You can get the Charles Wells trail guide at the rental desk. Even a day is worth it. make sure that you go out with a LOT of water at least 6 litres per person and some extra coolant. See if you can stay at the Aarchway Inn - that's where Cliffhanger is located and it's closest to the airport and all the trails mentioned above. Enjoy!

Lobbyist.

As is usual in such matters, pretty much all of the above is true. But what it boils down to is that a much better selection of good, lower weight diesels are available in the UK, so the GM 6.2/6.5, other than novelty value, isn't really a good conversion. In the US, where there are a limited number of domestically available 4 pot diesels, where imports represent some regulatory risk, and where big torquey domestic diesels are almost all out of capacious 3/4 and 1 ton pick-ups, they are not a bad choice.... Anyway, if you want cool and exotic, try shoe-horning a 12v Cummins Turbo Diesel (all mechanical with a VE Bosch pump for excellent tweaking) in a 110 with a 727 (straight bolt up OEM transmission) and tailshaft adaptor to the LT230. THAT would be most excellent.

Si, Is that Shock tower column going to hack it ? I just started welding classes, so I know jack and nothing but jack, but it looks like a LOT of force on that weld when things start rockin and rollin...

Well I just bought this on the net today, so I will be "building" it, but it will be for family wheeling, so nothing that qualifies for this thread I guess. 4:10s, Detroit rear, 235/85s, sliders, diff and tank guards and that's about it (okay, I'll take this over to Discoweb...."what size cupholders can I fit without having to trim?")

Good God. They'd have a calf if they saw some of the lax practice that goes on up in the Green Mountain state. We really do need to pay more attention to safety and procedure. It's all a bit Texas-Chainsaw-Massacre-Waiting-to-Happen out on the trail....

I was just on about saws with some of the woodchucks up in VT. These guys actually mod their saws! Balanced cranks, tuned exhausts, ignition timing. That's so sad, it's actaully cool Anyway, the Husky 346 and 350 are excellent bang for buck.

I had thought of a similar extractor fan set up but equally despise the bonnet mushrooms and as the Tonka has a "deluxe" bonnet, I don't have the tyre dish. I have a lot of hopes for the venting. We shall see...