BigSi110

Thanks. All very helpful. Highly constructive. Forgot to add I already have a Brunel intercooler and Turner ported head. Injectors are new and maintenance meticulous. According to some, she already goes very nicely indeed. But maybe there's room for improvement? However, reading about Mo's VNT 90, amongst others, plus the discussion about propane in the supercharging thread got me wondering about taking things a reliable step further. The Spanish mountain remark only relates to 2 weeks a year, but it's the hardest job my 110 has to do, considering the ambient temps hit 40C last time.

Hi Vince!! Didn't recognise you with that name. Thanks chaps. That's looking a little better now. I'm thinking this is a more reliable setup than going VNT, especially for long trips up Spanish mountains with a full load? Anyone care to pass comment? An affordable VNT option has also been offered.

Not wishing to disrupt the 'supercharging a Tdi' thread, anyone have any pearls of wisdom / advice / experience on propane injection into a Tdi? Allisport want the thick end of £700 installed for a system and I know Brunel don't do it. Allisport claim around 20bhp extra at the flick of a switch, plus Jerry Thurston's old Disco apparently got better MPG and emissions as a nice byproduct. I also recall Si at X-Eng playing with it last year with mixed results. But I just cannot get this out of my head. It's got to be available elsewhere and more affordable yet just as effective than the figure above? Anyone know whom and / or where?

Have a look at the attached link as it has full installation details and time to do the job (??!!). http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/AD_Faireyoverdrive_savesfuel_p1.html I've got to do the same job on our newly-aquired Series 3. I think it's just the PTO cover you take off and you'll need to take off the blanking plate on your gearbox tunnel so your man doesn't have a hole in his cab. Not sure of anything else?

300Tdi's and Td5's have them too. Exactly the same as your pic. One size, unless you fancy making your own out of SS.

I think Ian S's reply is useful, Matt. Check to see if the thing is spinning and that there's no play in the shaft or rotor. Your outlet pipe is in a bad place, too. I seriously think you need to rotate the unit so there aren't any partial restrictions in the pipework. Then, what about using your compressor to blow all lines out - big and small. Just to be sure. Negative boost is a sign the turbo's had it, but checking thoroughly for any blocks in the system MUST be done thoroughly first. Really, really make sure of this before spending any more money on the old girl. Once you're sure, we'll sort out a date to get things done.

This takes me back to my design engineer days in the reciprocating and rotary seal industry. Try Ensinger. UK-based. They may still have a place in Portsmouth, but are also based in Llantrissant. There's loads of engineering plastics dealers around, but most buy from Ensinger, so they would be the best to call or recommend a local stockist.

And that's my mate!!

You will need the correct pressure sender for the oil pressure gauge. I'm fitting a VDO pressure gauge this weekend and just bought the matching sender for that gauge from the same retailer who sells the gauge. The same for the boost gauge. I bought a kit for £9 from Croytec for a Smiths boost gauge. The rev counter is easy, even for my chimp-like abilities. Haven't a clue how the rest fits, but I have a mate who knows about such things. I'd advise the same for you too.

I use Castrol GTX Magnatec Diesel (10W/40) in my 300Tdi 110, changed every 3,000 miles. She's done 137,000 miles; the last 20,000 of which have been as above. I just find it very hard doing it any less often. So won't. The oil is reasonably-priced (Costco) and I buy Genuine filters in bulk to save more money. Factor in that I use that as a good excuse to check all underneath, re-grease props etc, check engine thoroughly, and it makes even more sense.

Thanks gents! Much appreciated. I'll pass this on and get him to poke his nose in here as soon as.

This is on behalf of Megansfolly, who is currently in a workshop somewhere in Buckinghamshire... He's fitted a 200Tdi into his 90 and his trying to prime the system with the hand pump on the lift pump. When he does this, fuel spurts out of the underneath of the cambelt case. Is this a sign of the injector pump needing new seals and if so, what's involved making the repair? Or what else could be causing the fuel leak? Any help gratefully recieived.

Mine pretty much as bought two and a half years ago; but at that time, already modified from totally standard on my request by Nene. How little I knew back then! And pretty much as she is now.

Brunel intercooler in my 300Tdi 110 and I very highly recommend them! For me, no improvement in fuel economy, but I do use the extra power. I can't be certain of the EXACT power improvements as I haven't rolling-roaded my 110 yet, but you should notice a something akin to releasing a binding brake.

Oooh!! Decisions, decisions... New key blanks or new locks to go with it and the chance to reduce the number of keys on my keyring by 1. Whatever, time to place an order. Thanks Mark! How easy is it to change locks then?

Thanks Mark! I'd appreciate that.

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I could use 3 shiny new key blanks to replace the old ignition keys for my 1994 110. Does anyone have the part number for the blanks as Mr Ibex pictures above, or is this a dream too far for a saddo like me?

I have the VDO 0-6,000rpm version on my Tdi (supplied by Croytec) and while the last 2,000rpm are useless, the fact that 3,000rpm is top centre works quite well for me as it's become a, mostly, self-imposed rev limit. The cost was nil (birthday pressie ) and my 1994 Tdi has a W-terminal under a black rubber cap on the alternator. Although it's very easy to tell the revs of the engine from the sound, I still like to look at the gauge especially when we're off-tarmac when I'm using low revs up hills.

Expect a full-colour 110 page feature in LRO anytime soon then. Plus the advert.

I did the same as John for the same reasons. I did look at Double S in Cullompton. They were really good and very helpful, but their system is 2.5" and, fitted, a little more expensive than the price I ultimately got from Griffin. We'll be down there late October, so fuel cost wasn't a consideration. James at Griffin said he's tested a 2.5" diamater vs a 3" diameter and got much better results with the latter. It's a VERY high quality system. I'll be fitting mine in just over a week's time. Oh, John. Nice wheels...

These chaps do Bushwaka tools and they're a decent supplier of parts too. http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Bushwacka_Tools.html However, for a much cheaper alternative, speak to Mike Hinghley (MrGemini) for his solution.

The RM overdrive gives a 27% increase in gearing, which you may find too much. The 1.22 gears give a 15% increase which, in my experience, is sufficient unless you want to run at 90mph all day.

The rating of the Silevrline wheels is way in excess of any loading a 110 will generate. I thought they were similar even without squinting. 5 spokes instead of 6 isn't that far off, especially when you consider the saving in purchase price.

If you want a similar (but not identical) design, try Silverline Wheels and their Silver or Black Sport wheel. Here's mine, but excuse the haze. This was taken in the Alps, just after wifey cooked my 110's brakes.... And here's the rub. They're £100 each.

It does look very nice (blue 110's ) and it IS clean, but if you want shiny....