Lara

I think it will probably work fine! I would tend to agree with Arragon's comment about the small turbine housing but as this will have it's waste gate open as soon as big boost is there, it may not effect it too much! I do think that the workmanship looks good and the design is well done, including the intercooler shape etc so let's give the builder the benefit of the doubt as he looks like he knows what he / she is doing! and the pics do not show it very clearly. Would like to see the result! could be fun! although probably not off road Lara Edit, Judging from the rest of the stuff on their site, they seem to know what they are doing and have quite a few 2 stage kits for different engines available. Perhaps we should watch with interest!

Or you have an exhaust valve burning, worth doing a cylinder leakage test, just in case. Has it just started to happen? Lara

Yeah Yeah!! everyone reckons their disco is unstoppable! Sorry! Lara

That is exactly the trick with them, TC or left foot braking, just a tiny bit makes a massive difference! and you find that the bigger the wheels / tyres you have the less you need to brake as the large mass of the big tyres will give enough resistance to make the Torsen system come into play. You do need to get used to getting the best out of them. Lara

Fitted mine in 2003 and never had a problem, Done countless halfshafts, 2 ring and pinions, 3 props, but never touched the Diff, So touch wood, Very strong! I think one of the good points of the Torsen system is it's ability to be gentle when not needed, Ie on grass etc where you need gentle control and not locked axles. It will fishtail under power but not if you are gentle! Lara

Exactly! Except the front cover from the Rv8

Hi BM, I use them in my 90, Fitted them years ago and never a problem, used in conjunction with the TC as you say give me perfect control, (except for driver input ) and as you say, "fit and forget" they have never made me regret fitting them, always give me great traction and I never forget to turn them on! However on occasions when the TC sensor gets knocked out of range or a wire broken, then you do need to modulate the brake pedal if you lift a wheel or if you are in very goopy slop. Otherwise they are perfect. However I would use ARBs for a challenge only vehicle! Lara

You have so many back steps in your last post that you just overtook Usain bolt Having a very large spade, And Digging very deep holes seems to spring to mind here Lara PS. Lastly, and I mean that as I'm bored now and haven't dabbled in engine design theory for a couple of decades or so, your design of a blower looks a lot like a copy of someone else's design of a blower adapted to fit a certain engine configuration. Well done for making it work and everything and I'm sure it won you a lot of races but you could at least reference the original that you based it on. Well, you are wrong yet again! Seems to be getting a habit.

Actually loads of diesel engines are supercharged but mostly the 2 stroke type used in stationary engines etc, when I did my engineering apprenticeship, the firm I was contracted to, specialized in pumps of all types you could imagine, some of these were driven by Diesel engines of varying size from 8Cyl 8litre Cummins upward, some of the smaller V8 2 strokes had Superchargers between the banks and a single turbo blowing into that. I think they were rated for our application at 300bhp but can't remember too much about them except they were F-in Heavy! The GMC Type superchargers that you see on all the dragsters in the states were derived from a line of Diesel Supercharged 2 Stroke engines produced by GMC, (I think still do?) these were rated and cataloged as 471 671 871 etc and referred to cylinder displacement X cylinder number, hence the popular 6-71 blower name came from the 6 cylinder 71ci/cyl GMC Diesel engine. Keep us informed! sounds like an interesting project, whatever the outcome, it will be a big experience! Lara. P.S. Cola and Ice then

I think it has calmed down really, don't think anyone meant anything by it but it is one of those subjects that gets you quite hyper as there is so much to think about when you start comparing advantages / disadvantages etc, and to be honest it is fairly un-answerable as a lot of the time it is just down to personal preferences. I think a little banter is quite expected on this type of subject! Aragorn is quite right though that you only need to look above 1500 rpm, and there have been some extremely good points brought up! Look forward to seeing you at the bar! Mine is a Cola You will love this event!!! Lara

To be honest although probably not ideal, pulling through a disconnected free turning supercharger would work quite well, If the supercharger drive fails the engine usually runs in normally aspirated form quite satisfactorily if nothing causes the blower to foul, so if engineered well, just disconnecting it with a clutch should work OK, (not ideal but probably very satisfactorily I would think) This would be very worth while experimenting with. Lara.

Hi there, In practice a small amount of cylinder wall damage can be "got away with" but question your self what the piston will look like if it has done this to your bore! and it will not repair it's self. In my experience it is always better to repair it while you have the chance than have it expire later at some time when you wish it hadn't! In the long run you always end up cussing your self for any corner cutting! I would advise ripping it apart, Bore all cylinders, change the pistons, and change all seals and the crank bearings while you are at it, these things cost so little compared to the work needed to do the job again down the road they are silly "not" to do. Do it once right! and save money and time in the long term. P.S. If you question it enough to ask, you really know the answer already Lara

Absolutely agree that any and all of these things work very well but you do need to wind your engine up rather a lot to get the most out of them, and they all rely on boost pressure being present, and most are aimed at "Max output" I think what Flatbed wanted was the fastest transition between off and on boost, I think that for this it would have to be a Mechanical Supercharger, or Nitrous Oxide injection, or a quite special turbo. (or two) there are drawbacks with all three but probably less with the first in my opinion. (and mine is no more valid than yours, it's just mine ) Lara

You can get the Paxtons in the states, they are a re-design of the old pre-war Paxton design with a much improved gear drive to the compressor shaft, They are very expensive to buy new though! not sure how good compared to others though as never used a modern one! Although AMG and Brabbus used them quite successfully on some of their bigger engines! Flatbed, If you are going to the Three Peaks, look me up and we can chat, I will be in the "Dirty Buckers and Belgian Bennys" team, Will get there on Friday evening. Staying at the Hi-B. Is this your first time at the TP's? Lara Steam-Eng P.S. I have quite a few blowers of various types on the shelf if you need one.

That is one excuse I didn't hear Bloody believable though Lara

70020 is what we use, However in our modern race prep years we never tested a single engine from a manufacturer that gave their quoted power. Some Italian makes were 15 to 20% off Lara

Hi Mr Otchie, You seem to want to get into a pissing fight! I am not very interested, Mr McInnes qualifications do not transpose to those who read his books! You have evidently not read them well enough or allowed yourself time to fully understand what he is saying, or what I was saying for that matter! Easily done and I have also been guilty of this. or maybe you just responded a little rashly? McInnes quote you added says very clearly that in his opinion if the exhaust outlet pressure at the valve is twice that of the manifold, then exhaust back-pressure has very little effect, quite possibly true! but think for how long this "Critical pressure" goes on for. Experience experiment. Many years ago, I was doing development of a 1.4 litre 8 valve turbo engine, this engine was production based NA engine, Turboed and modified by me, and was giving 296bhp @ 6800 rpm, @ 2.2bar boost. I made a fixture out of a Yamaha FZ750 engine and transmission brake to power a separate turbo to test exactly what we are discussing. When hooked up (and this was no mean feat I can tell you) to run next to, and boost the other engine on the dyno we got 316bhp at the same revs with 2bar boost as this was all we could achieve from the Yam engine. Now where did that extra power come from? I think I was right in presuming it was mostly due to back-pressure and driving the Turbo! You won't read that in a book though. You read that back-pressure tuning is good for power, Semi true, but what you are actually doing is "pressure wave tuning" and although back-pressure is one of the ingredients, it is not the trigger for power, it is an unavoidable sufferance, the pressure wave if tuned correctly will actually "Suck" at the valve area as in "Negative pressure" not back-pressure, you may also believe the advertising blurb in the "super trap" adverts, Testing shows this to be absolute bull, and they do not tune any power except all of it down!! Back-pressure on it's own is bad for power! Unless driving a Turbo or exploited in other ways. My experience is gained in Engine design, From scratch in some instances! From race car preparation, From running a race team of 6 cars, 3 of them supercharged, 4 of them on alcohol, and One with rather a few fuel additives, From playing and experimenting all of my life and now From running / owning one of the Europe's top restoration / historic race preparation companies, My Landy engine if that is what you were referring to is just a little toy on the side! Again I am not having a pissing match, but don't think that you are the only person on here with a few qualifications, I too went to college etc (luckily I was company sponsored) and my BTEC is in the bin where it belongs (honestly!) You only understand something truly when you have "done it your self" No other way in my experience! There are many more experienced people on here I am sure who can laugh at yours and my experience put together and P quite happily on us both, so no point into pissing in the wind! Let us answer the question asked! Flatback, This is a picture of a blower that I personally designed and built for one of our race cars, it was done to improve efficiency of the original blower in order to reduce the speed at which we needed to drive it, The engine was 1.5 litres and gave 260bhp, So blowers can work on small engines! don't be put off, just try it and have fun! Lara

Just to be a PITA And as I can't add anything constructive. The heading is wrong, the plural of Lambda is Lambdes Lara

Well if you use "Moggy" axles it will fit with your Pussy stroking plans and also help with being able to use reverse rotation! Lara

Opefully Driven by a blind man though so needs to be Lara

I would have thought that the box would run perfectly satisfactorily in reverse as it should not give any different forces than lifting off from speed, or heavy engine breaking etc! Both put reverse thrust through the box! And I am sure Landrover designed for this! although maybe not constant! Or something like this if you have the budget! http://www.lencoracing.com/CS3MasterPage.html Lara

Edit. "Got-a-job-Eng" is not only the best quote ever written but the best qualification too! The amount of idiot "Mr degree race engineers" that come for a job here is amazing and I have even employed a few, 4 in total and all fired within a year! Experience, Experience and intelligence! most important asset imaginable! Back to Flatback's question though. A Mechanical supercharger can and will work very well on a small displacement engine, use something like an Eaton from a mini, or a modern Mercedes or Jag blower. We use them regularly and they are great little blowers up to about 1 bar! A VGT of the correct size will also work, and probably better in the long run, Mine gives boost from 1100rpm onward so little advantage to use a Mech supercharger. however that immediate Snap of power is always fun with a Supercharger (let's call a mech Supercharger a "Supercharger" here) Gas injection is fine but you will need boost in order for this to work with any noticeable results. If it is low down power you need (I think it is) you should look up all the good and bad points, add in engineering time and unit cost and then weigh them all together and decide! However, also throw in the "fun factor" as this is very important As is the experience gained, even the problem parts as these are what gives you the full understanding of what you read in your books. And as said before Intercooling should not be under estimated, but not over estimated either! Lara

You have actually cited your problem my friend, too many books and not enough experience!! Experience tells us that exhaust back pressure, even small amounts, does hurt power! Just because you can overcome it with boost does not mean it is not detrimental for power and efficiency! Read books VERY carefully and make sure you understand them fully before repeating. McInes is a very experienced engineer and I also have his books, however when writing something it is difficult to write a full explanation that is not easily misunderstood by the less knowledgeable without going on and on for reams of explanation. Lara.

6mm Inox pipe end, 230mm od, just chisel your old cover off with a sharp chisel, or air chisel, takes about 5 minutes by hand or 1 with air! Clean up and prep for weld, fit a plug for the filler. weld all. Total of about 2 hours work. Lara

Quite a common misconception to think that a turbo is for free! Although they are generally more efficient than even a good Mechanical driven supercharger, They create large amounts of exhaust back pressure, and we all know that that is not good for power!! A lot of work for a road vehicle! VGT would be an easier route however don't let us stop you as it would be a fun setup!! Thought about it on Ced's Buggy engine but going to use VGT and Nitrous instead ;o) Lara