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Lara

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Everything posted by Lara

  1. By far the easiest and safest way to repair your vehicle is to get someone else to do it! I have never had an accident or even near miss using this method Lara
  2. Replaced mine with some proper rods Lara
  3. Absolutely fair enough Colin, Can't argue with your comments, We can only see what happens, I hope Live Promotions can do something, Security can be dealt with in several ways, 1. Use Billing's contractors, (not good) 2. use your own, (better) 3. both! (better still but double money) 4. Talk nicely to the local Angels and pay them to "attend in the evening" Don't under estimate these guys, when they are on your side, you have very few problems! They are far from stupid!! (Top idea) 5. Go talk to the local Pikeys, some things make them listen very well. And probably cheaper than the idiot security firms. (High on the list) Lara.
  4. As simon says, You will be following the "old broom" and probably the dust it sweeps! It is rather poor form to ask for improvements, get promised those improvements by a new company with a good track record, and then not go! But worse still, to then go to the show of the old company who you complained about!!! Lara
  5. Noise from Little boy "Eeeeeeeeeeeeeer" Lara
  6. Oh oh oh look a series 1 !!!!!!!!!!! Down boy! Sorry, but They get me so excited, Lara
  7. What utter rubbish! 1&2. STAYING at the show concerned WHILE it was going on would be condoning, Never going again regardless of who is running it and without giving them a chance is Cutting of your nose to spite your face! 3. Without you, that's one less But you are entitled to your own opinion. Lara.
  8. Paul Baldwin PCB Motor services Armour Road Tilehurst Reading, RG Berkshire, 01189 417 547 I think he should be personally held responsible for my constant spending addiction!!!!! I worked for him in my early years 1986ish when he was on Tilehurst roundabout and he took me off roading in his RRC that we had fitted a Small block Chevy into. Then in his new 90 V8 Van. Hooked!!!!! I blame him
  9. Hi Dave, We have blocks, and heads etc cast in LM25TF that were originally cast iron, we have found them to be quite a bit stronger!! Although we do make the mains caps out of billet 7075-T6 for racing use. We have also done the same with one of the diffs on our race car that kept cracking and flexing when made of cast iron, In ally it was stronger, didn't crack and was lighter! Good luck, Great project! Lara.
  10. Tim, Fill it to the right "new" level and there isn't an issue Did you get left out of the info? Lara. Great idea Dave!! Am sure it will sell, specially if you make the diff case in 356-T6 or LM25TF Ally Would also probably be stronger than cast iron too, and cheaper to cast!! Good luck. Lara
  11. If Mince Cobblers says they are good, They must be!!! Lara
  12. don't make excuses for him All three wheels that you can see in the video are spinning together so no problems with the diff locks there! Just a sick engine and carp tyres And I would say the Jeep was well driven and not "only" lucky! Lara
  13. I have a video of that somewhere! Absolute idiots!!!! and I think "rented vehicles" as they are all in suits and normal shoes! Lara
  14. Thank your lucky stars they don't tax you on the US equivalent HP output or your 65hp would equate to some 450 yank muscles Lara
  15. We have studded snow tyres for most of our classic rally cars!!! And slippy difs!! GREAT FUN Lara
  16. Busy here at work.................... Playing on my Quad!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was "made" for snow and I just love it Lara
  17. I agree in principal but again you really must include the full intended purpose when you judge, For strength triangulation is obviously the most important consideration. For safety, sometimes it is not! Some people build a weak point into their design as in a "crush" zone, some people brag about FEA designed cages and then remove bars in silly places and the driving compartment turns into the crush zone! all sorts of things come into play. This is growing into a sport where at the top level you are going to use your cage! and probably for more than one purpose. We need to consider this! Jim's cage may or may not be your cup of tea, for sure in a big roll it will deform, maybe he wants that? I for one would want the cage to bend rather than my brain (if I had one) get turned to mush. How much the deformation and at what load is down to the designer and the person paying the bill. Not everyone needs or wants a Sherman tank! Horses for courses! Lara
  18. MSA regs don't ask for rollcages on this type of event. Shouldn't be a problem. Lara
  19. To be honest, the MSA rules for roll cages give you an awful lot of leeway! they are a "minimum" guide for MSA run events but are only there to guide you to what they see as safe enough, they are certainly not blueprints for success. Again though, depends on the cages ultimate intended use. Most Landrover ones are there to protect the vehicle as much as the occupants. Lara
  20. Hi. There is no set rule for roll cage design, to be honest it boils down to this. If you feel competent to design and build a LIFE SUPPORTING structure on your vehicle then you probably know the answer to your question your self. (not meaning any offense what so ever, I don't know your background) There are several conflicting ideas toward roll cages and it all depends on what your intended use is. Possibilities are. a. To protect the occupants, = Strong design with no or few weak points and tubes triangulated as much as possible, strong tube but deformable without fracture in severe impacts. b. To protect the vehicle, = Strong design with no or few weak points and tubes triangulated as much as possible, as strong tube as possible. c. To look cool, = lots of rolled bends and fancy stuff. d. To be part of the supporting structure to add strength or be part of the chassis, = Strong design with no or few weak points and tubes triangulated as much as possible, as strong tube as possible. e. Do all of the above (except c cos that's for the yanks ) with as little weight as possible. = Intelligent use of materials and good design. Jim's cage was designed to do a purpose, and does that to the level he is satisfied with, In order to answer your question you would first need to know what criteria Jim or the manufacturers had in mind when it was designed and built. Maybe it is just a fancy light bar? or maybe the whole cage is made from special hi tec Ti-xyz-ium? Lara.
  21. Hi, Someone was asking about servo clutches etc a while back, Got this from a member of D44 forum and he asked me to post the link on here, www.easydrive.co.za/products.htm Lara.
  22. I think that the worst thing we can post on here is not photos but the "have you got an SVA for that" type posts etc, and the thread regarding Mr Gresham's accident, Mostly misinformed and in correct useful and unhelpful garbage! Let's get away from telling each other what is or isn't legal or safe. I can't see any use in feeding the antis and the feds! Lara
  23. If anyone is interested I can sell you a copy of "Autocad15/3 Paint" for ages 5 to 8, for a very reasonable price Lara
  24. That sounds like a very possible scenario, all you need is a corresponding frequency and off you go!!! Fingers crossed. Lara. Although not perfect, would this not be a good idea?
  25. Morning John, Firstly, if you really are surging at 2500 rpm then you need to change your turbo! Compressor surge is caused by too low air flow and too high boost pressure, Too much reverse torque on your compressor shaft with not enough exhaust back pressure, thus causing your turbo to stall, boost drops, turbo re-accelerates and thus re-enters the cycle. "serge" At 2500 you shouldn't be near either! Can't think for the life of me why you would be getting Turbine / vane dynamic problems at this speed? bit if you are then there is a severe Miss match somewhere! What is your Turbo? and what was it previously fitted too? My curve would be as follows. 1100 rpm = Boost starting 1200 rpm = 5-6psi 1300 rpm = 8-9psi 1400 rpm = 10-12psi 1500rpm = 13-15 Boost pressure climbing real fast now! 1600rpm = 17-19 1700rpm = 22-24psi 1800rpm = 26-27psi Full boost! No audible serge at any point. Hope this is of some help. Lara P.S. What happens to the noises if you set the poppet valve to closed at idle?
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