monkie

The fuse rating on the circuit might also help you. The 1mm2 takes just over 8amp and the 2mm2 wire is rated to 17amp. The piddly little wires to the instrument lights on the dash are about 5amp wire 0.65mm2

I got my wires from Autosparks. The "normal" wires are 1mm2, the thicker ones for the headlights for example or 2mm2 and the beefy 60amp stuff is 8.50mm2.

This is top quality work, my eyes are drawn to the large blue wire on top of the engine. I think one is going to cause you a bit of trouble

Don't worry about that. The more information the better, it's all a learning process as far as I'm concerned. I have taken inspiration from how you and other people have done things, I don't want to be reinventing the wheel.

That has been going through my mind as soon as I started to chop up my old loom! I have added a few mods to mine like upgrading to modern connectors, relays for the headlights, better earthing for each corner and glow plug relay. Also indid a little more on it today with a fresh mind. I sorted out the parts that were bugging me yesterday and it's really taking shape. I think I spent too long on it yesterday.

I'll second that. When a 19J fires up and idles, it is actually quite smooth compared the the clatter of a cold Tdi. I like the 19J, you just have to look after them well. I rebuilt mine a few years ago but I have to be honest and admit it has not been trouble free. I plan to do more longer trips in my 110 so for increased reliability and improved economy/performance I will be fitting a Defender 200Tdi with R380 stumpy once my 11 has functioning electricals again.

Hi Kris, I have a good 19J cylinder head spare that I didn't need. It does need new hot spots inserting. Regarding the pistons, try and get a good make such as AE if you can. Replace all as I would imagine they will all have cracks if you look closely. To avoid the cracks: get your injectors serviced with new nozzles, change the engine oil regularly, don't thrash it. Consider fitting an intercooler.

I think when you get that point, it is when you are likely to make silly/costly mistakes. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be reinvigorated to push on

Nope, you could ask autosparks, but I couldn't find them. I just reused my old ones.

I've just hit that point in a big land rover project when you start to slow down, wonder if you have bitten off more than you can chew and start to think that your land rover will never be on the road again. I'm seeing that as a signal to stop working on it today and come back to it when I'm feeling fresh and motivated to carry on.

Progressing well. Here is the before and after of the fuse box.... Edit: The additional brown wires are to fuse the feed for the head light relays.

My leak off pipes are also Halfords. They were new about 3 years ago now with no leaks. Maybe it is the veg oil? I've only been using DERV.

Outer measurement: 373mm Centre measurement: 365mm ... My fingers temperature: 0'C

Thanks for the responses. He got it sorted at a none LR garage using OEM parts. This was put down to lack of use over lockdown causing binding which overheated the discks a warped them. To address @Poppy AnnThis is most certainly not down to bad driving, he is an extremely careful driver with many years experience. Usually if you are doing high mileage then you are probably not doing stop/start journies which put wear on brakes and tyres; this would account for huge milage between brake pad and disck renewal. For the same reason it is not uncommon for me to get 35,000 miles out of a set of tyres on my car I use for work where I spend most of my time on the motorway.

I think we are using the same pipe Richard. I have black rubber fuel hose I got from Halfords. Mine has been on about 8 years with no issue. What do you think is happening, is it rubbing on something?

I'm not at all familiar with this type of engine so this is a stab in the dark... Could it be anything to do with the emissions control system? Check out land rover workshop for the diagrams.

I'm looking forward to being the recipient of your 200Tdi, so it's in my interests to get you those measurements but as Richard says it's just too darn dark and cold right now!!!

I can in the morning Ian if you don't have the information you need by then.

I have made this basic circuit diagram for the lighting circuit on my 1988 110. You need to work backwards to find where your issue is. The brown wire to the switch is the unfused live feed for the entire circuit which comes from the main bus on the starter motor solenoid terminal. It provides the feed at the light switch for the entire circuit. The fuses as you can see in my diagram protect the side lights, dipped beam and main beam between the lights and the switches.

Yes, that looks like it will benefit from cleaning. To do the job properly it will have to be removed which means using a new gasket, if you skimp on this important step you are likely to not get a proper seal when you put the manifold back on after the cleaning. I think the only challenge you may have is stubborn fixings holding the manifolds to the head. Spray each bolt with plenty of penetrating fluid 24 hours before undoing them.

Thank you, that confirms my suspicions. I have been crimping, soldering and using adhesive heat shrink. I will continue.

Someone I was talking to recommended these for joining multiple wires. I've never seen them in the flesh, I'm not sure how good they are long term. What's the panel's view? Anyone used them?

Frustratingly I'm still awaiting some items in the post due to delivery delays, but I have managed to get as far as I can with the individual circuits ready to build the main loom when the other bits and pieces arrive. Progress is slow but sure..

Careful now, you don't want to overload your engine hoist