monkie

Following this to see suggestions. The really neat looking ones that I have seen are from our North American friends who who use the Bussmann fuse and relay box. I can't find anyone who sells them in Europe, only direct from the US with high shipping and probably customs fees to pay. I have found This alternative, but does use mini fuses. I do like the idea of protecting everything by directing the positive supply through a maxi/midi fuse box like This rather than taking the whole lot off the starter solenoid terminal as an unfused supply.

Go very easy with hammers and dollies on aluminium, it doesn't behave quite like steel does as it work hardens. I think you have to keep heating it up. I'm sure someone will be along with a technique to straighten out aluminium.

Do you have a MIG welder? I welded up sunroof using aluminium MIG wire and Argon shielding gas. It worked well, but I had to go real slow with lots of breaks as the heat really tries to warp the aluminium roof. I found it very hard to get neat welds so also spent a lot of time grinding then flat. I was pleased with the end result though. I did initially try the aluminum brazing rods but didn't find them any good on the roof.

Part number AMR2628 They don't come cheap for the genuine Lucas ones. You might be able to find the 24v version for less money. If so, you just swap the bulbs for 12v ones. https://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/lucas-38823-12v-warning-light-assembly-land-rover-amr2628--prc8879-2529-p.asp

No, I use the coach enamel thinners supplied by paint man to mix with the paint. The big tin of standard thinners I get from Brighton Auto Paints is to clean out the spray gun after.

Ah yes, wrong terminology on my part. Either way, you don't want either water or oil coming through into your gun to be sprayed onto your panels as you paint them. I have found these little things really helpful at stopping stuff from your air tank coming through into the gun.

Its the sort of thing you can spend a fortune on. I have quite a cheap set up and with practice it works for me. I find gravity fed spray guns work well, I just have quite a cheap one (Sealey S701G) but with practice I am capable of producing a finish I'm happy with. I buy paint from paintman paints and other general bits like panel wipe, standard thinners for washing the gun through, face mask, gloves, cloths etc from Brighton auto paints. You don't want moisture from the compressor getting through to the gun or you'll get fish eyes. I have a water separator on the regulator and then a cheap in-line water separator off ebay on the end of the gun from the airline. I'll state the obvious - the amount of preparation work is directly proportional to the finish you'll achieve. Like anything, practice practice is key. Do you have a piece of scrap Ali sheet about to practice on so you can get your gun set up? There's a fine line between getting a lovely orange peel free finish and a big sag, I think getting close to that line but not crossing it is the real skill that will take practice. Once the paint is dry I use a liquid compound followed by a glaze (Farecla) with a cheapo toolstation polishing mop and the finish is really good.

Yes, exactly. Full full/main beam is what I am referring to by undipped.

The dim dip thing is annoying and in my opinion added unnecessary complication to what should be fairly simple (I understand it used to be a UK requirement). This is how I rewired my lighting circuit eliminating traces of the dim/dip stuff... Brown live feed to the light switch. Red wire goes to the fuse box for the left and right tail/side lights plus an off shoot going to the "lights on" dash lamp. Blue goes to the dipped/undipped switch on the stalk and also a piece off to power the rear fog switch and fuse (blue/purple up to the fog lamp fuse). From the dip/undip stalk switch, blue/red is for the dipped beam to the fuse box. Blue/white is for undipped to the fuse box with a piece off to the dash lights to illuminate the undipped warning lamp

The only explaination I could offer for differences between the two ignition switches are none standard replacements made by various different owners between now and when it left the factory. The numbering I used on my diagram was taken from the back of the switch. Have you fused your glow plug feed Ralph?

A few months on after the rewire, I am happy that all is working well and reliably but for anyone reading this thinking of doing a complete rewire I want to be open and honest with a few things of doing it in standard form... What have I discovered along the way and what would I do differently knowing what I know now? A huge positive is I feel I have a far better understanding of the electrical system on my 110 and better placed to find faults in the future. The biggest thing however is I fear I might have missed an opportunity to customise things better. Think very carefully about this statement if you are considering a rewire yourself. I rewired pretty much as standard, following the same wiring colour codes as original. I did build in a few small modifications such as relays to the dipped/undipped head lights and modern connectors. On the connector front, I like econoseal but I'm not as fond of the superseal. I also think some connectors on the original loom are unnecessary potential points of failure as some have pointed out in this thread @Sigi_H at time I didn't agree but I have come round to this way of thinking now. I would certainly eliminate the connections to the engine loom and the rear loom if I did this again. Even to the lights, thinking if I needed to remove them I could then cut the wires and add in a connector at that point. The biggest thing I have since discovered are hand held label printers that actually print on heat shrink allowing you to permanently label individual wires - wow, game changer! Had I have known this from the start I think I would have just bought big reels of cable of just a few solid colours say 4 or 5 and then labelled each individual wire at both ends rather than learning (and forgetting) what green with a black trace means etc... I also think I should have given more thought to fuses. I'm not happy with the amount of unfused lives in the standard wiring. This I am going to address and not leave as standard. I want to eliminate all unfused lives in the loom. The obvious place to start is the glow plug feed, but I also want to fuse the main supply to the ignition switch. I'm thinking one off the shelf method to do this is to fit a maxi/midi fuse box somewhere on the bulkhead or in the battery box for this job. I'm just looking for some advice from those that have done this before. Is this a sensible idea? Anyone done this a better way? What size fuses should I be looking at for the feed to the ignition switch? The feed to the starter motor is also unfused. Is this a silly idea? Has anyone put a fuse to the starter motor? If so what size?

You have some good hills on the A30 between Hayle and Bodmin. My advice is do a few trips up country to Bodmin and see how you find your set up powered by the mighty 12J. Its all down to personal preference. The 12J is quieter and smoother than a clattery tdi unit but I think you'll be changing down through the gears up hills as a 12J is down on both power and torque compared to a tdi. I've heard that 12J engines really don't appreciate high revs. I was happy with the 19J doing just small local trips, but now I am doing more and more miles I'm wanting more than the 19J is able to offer. A few good long trips will tell you how happy you really will be with a 12J.

Have you had a conversation over the phone to your current provider about it? Different purpose but I suppose similar in principle; I live not too far from a river, it doesn't flood but it obviously has the potential under certain circumstances. Standard home insurance would only go so far if I left it as is. After I spoke with the provider over the phone to enquire what they could do they increased the level cover for not that much extra to cover my entire home and contents (plus having to move out) if we ever got flooded. I was surprised to learn that no one else near me who I have spoken to bothered to ask their provider and have stuck with standard cover which as you say is limited. The only thing is I luckily haven't had to use it to find out how good it really is...

Yes it should pretty much be as a 12J just slight differences in terms of the block, presumably strengthened.

Yes, that is the thing I'm talking about.

This will help you...

Here's a question for the Bosch VE experts that might help this situation... On the land rover 19J turbo diesel engine if you have a split boost diaphragm the CAV FIP is unable to give extra fuel to burn as the boost pressure increases causing a definite drop in power especially noticeable up hills. How does this mechanism work on the 300tdi, I'm assuming it must have parallels... Could a similar issue happen causing the problems the OP is observing?

I would have thought that poor injectors to cause noticeable drop off in power would cause knocking and smoking. I would be checking valve clearance when engine is cold and then follow up with a compression test.

How have you verified the timing is good? Is the exhaust excessively smokey in terms of injectors?

Stop solenoid is the bit on the FIP that has a wire going to it. If you remove the wire with the engine off but ignition on you will hear a click as it closes. The timing belt is the toothed belt that drives the FIP and the camshaft inside the timing case. The serpentine belt isn't toothed and shouldn't be confused with the timing belt. The serpentine belt drives the water pump, PAS pump and alternator.

Yes, it's a one piece for both inlet and exhaust. Has it been running low on coolant? 300tdi engines in particular do not tolerate low coolant well.

From what you say, you seem to have covered air intake and fuel issues. (the wastegate arm won't do much under no load conditions, you need a load on the engine to raise boost pressure). There is also the manifold gasket to check, cheap and easy to replace. Moving away from air intake and fuel issues, you mentioned the thermostat, what made you look at this? Do you have to top up coolant regularly or have you had any overheating issues? When were the valve clearances and timing last checked? I would also be tempted to perform a compression test to see if that gives any clues to a deeper issue.

These images from my 19J rebuild a few years ago show the crank locking pin and the tool in injection pump. Obviously the pin in the flywheel picture was taken with the gearbox off to illustrate how the pin sits in a groove in the flywheel

The only other possibility is that I have the wrong adapter from Merlin. I will get an M16 nut and try it out. It was definitely larger than the blanking plug diameter wise.

I have the adapters and went to fit them this evening. The 1/8" NPT T-piece fits well. The M16 er well isn't M16 on my 19J. It seems to be about 1mm smaller diameter. Can't say I was shocked that it wasn't metric. Nevermind. I have put the pressure sender and temp sender on the T-piece and put the blanking plug back in.