monkie

As a follow on from my rewire project on my 110, I want to get myself a set of gauges to monitor the engine better. I am starting with an acurate coolant temperature guage (Stack professional from Merlin motorsport). I will initially be fitting this to my 19J, but I will soon be fitting Ian's Defender spec 200 Tdi. Two questions. (1) Will the sender fit/what sender do I need in terms of thread size? (2) Will the sender required for the 19J be the same as that required for the 200Tdi in terms of thread size? https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/stack-water-temperature-gauge-40-120-degrees-c-st33

First opportunity I've had to take my 110 down a dark farm road to test out my new light set up at night. Before the rewire I had the standard switch operated circuit, standard H4 bulbs but crystal lenses. The last time I remember driving in the dark with that set up it was hard to tell if the beam was dipped or undipped, it was rubbish. Now I have nice thick wires supplying current to the bulbs via relays. I am using the night breaker bulbs. The difference is almost night and day. (I was stationary down a dead end farm road when taking these pictures).

I can do the bit from the A303 at Podimoor to Mike.

Yes, you are right. That part there is indeed the boost diaphragm from a 19j injection pump.

Yes, that's my first thought too. My advice is remove all the wires from the ignition switch except for the main feed. Then see what terminals are live with the key in which position. The white/red wire should be connected to a terminal that is live only with the key held in the start position. It is this white/red wire that activates the starter relay to power the solenoid up on the starter motor. The only thing is that my 110 is relatively simple and has no immobiliser to add further complications... EDIT: looking at your ignition switch wiring (ignoring the red and the black wires as they look like additions and I don't know what for)... The brown wire is the main feed from the battery via the positive bus on the starter solenoid. The white wire must be live with the key in position 1, 2 and 3. The white/orange must be live with the key in position 1 only and the white/red wire must be live with the key in position 3 only. If that doesn't help. Remove that red wire from the switch and see what happens as it looks like a permanent unfused live taken off the main feed from your photo.

They look glazed from the pictures, particularly so the intake side. Do they look glazed in real life?

Have you had a look at the crankshaft main and big end bearings? What do you think is going on and what engine is it?

Good to hear you got back okay. I bet that was an anxious journey playing breakdown bingo

I took it for a good run this afternoon after cleaning the oil from round the brake disk. The engine seemed to enjoy clearing itself, it was quite a bit smokey at first but settled down to a good clean burn. I gave the brakes a good few runs and all seemed normal. I'll keep an eye on the oil leak.

Thanks Ralph. I'll clean up the break discs and pads to remove the oil and then take it for a little drive down some quiet roads to warm everything up again and get the oils circulated. I'll keep a close eye on this seal.

My 110 has been sat on my drive for quite a while (since December). I have noticed thick, clean oil that has dribbled down the off side brake disc and on to the tyre. It's definatly oil from the front axle, not brake fluid, engine oil, diesel or oil coming past the swivel seals so I presume this has come from the oil seal on the stub axle. I replaced these with Corteco seals about 18-24 months ago. Is this probably just because it's been sat there for 3 months doing nothing and the seal has shrunk a bit through lack of use or is this a sign of a deeper problem?

Yes, I broke the old loom down into individual circuits and just replicated them one by one to build up the new loom. I used a board to help me do it as others in this thread suggested.

Have you seen my loom thread? I had this experience recently and it was the wiring at the ignition switch. Have a look at what I found. Have you don't anything at the ignition switch wiring?

Your solenoid is life expired. Replace with a new one. One last check you can do just to prove it is dead.... Remove the solenoid with the spring and plunger in place, conect the wire to it with the ignition on. hold it in your hand and touch the body of the solenoid against something metalic on the engine to earth it. you should see and hear the plunger move. If not, throw it way and replace with a new one.

I drew a little diagram of the ignition switch wiring to help if anyone gets a bit muddled up in the future. There are no white/black wires to my switch which is I why I got confused. I also learnt to my detriment that just becuase something is live with the key in the on position dosen't mean you can plug what wire you want to it! Hope this helps people:

Putting the dash back together I stumbled across a realisation by accident with respect to the ignition switch. I got the white and the white/orange wires back to front on the ignition switch. The engine would crank and not fire up. With the ignition on I checked the stop solenoid, it worked. So I took an injector pipe off number 1 injector and cranked it over. Nothing. Then it hit me, the feed to the circuits to the white wire must be isolated when cranking. Yes it was. I switched the white wire with the white orange and it fired up straight away. This makes sense as the radio, blower motor, AC if fitted run off the white/orange and you don't need those running when cranking the engine over. So on my ignition switch which is standard for a TD 110 of the 1980s... Terminal 5 is the live feed with the brown wire from the positive battery terminal via the bus on the starter solenoid. Terminal 2 is live when the key is held in position 2 for the glow plugs using the brown/red wire. Terminal 4 is live only when the key is held in position 3 so is used to energise the starter relay on the white/red wire. Terminal 3 is live with the key in position 1, 2 and 3 so is for the ignition on circuits for critical things like powering the engine loom via the white wire. So the white wire must be connected to this one for power to circuits in positions 1, 2 and 3. Terminal 1 is live only with the key in position 1 so is to feed circuits with the key in position 1 only and not when energising the glow plugs or cranking. The white orange wire is connected to this one. I accidentally had the white wire connected to this terminal which is why the stop solenoid switch off when cranking preventing the engine from starting. Reflecting on it, this numbering system makes sense in relation to what is live when the key is in a given position bit easily overlooked.

As Bowie says. Bypass the post office and just do it online.

Measure the voltage at the bulb terminals to see what you are getting. You can buy off the shelf kits for the relay upgrade to save you the hassle or make your own if you want to. Essentially you just need two 5 pin change over relays, one for dipped beam and one for main. Wire the relays like this: Fused positive supply from the battery to 30. Ground position 85. Connect the wire from the switch (one relay for dipped the other for main) to position 86. Connect the output wires (one to each lamp) to position 87. (87a is left unconnected) . I've used 17amp wire to the lights.

I have almost completed my rewire project on my 110. I used the opportunity to build in a few modifications. Regarding my headlights I already had a set of crystal shells but I added a large earth wire direct to the negative battery terminal via a bus bar, relay operated main and dip circuits fed from a fused live supply using a larger wires and I have swapped my bulbs for the night breaker type. Before these mods with the standard set up it wasn't always clear if the beam was undipped or not. Now the difference is staggering. It is the route I would recommend plus you retain the standard classic look which personally I prefer over the modern led lights.

Can I just clarify your TWAs so we know we are talking about the same thing: VSS voltage sensitive switch HRW heated rear window NC no charge I can't figure out why your method wouldn't work but I'm also not sure what you'd gain as you'd essentially be swapping a VSS for a relay.

The date is 1st April 1986 "must carry an approval mark or British standard mark.... No wattage requirement..." 13. Definitions– In this Schedule– “approval mark” means either– (a) a marking designated as an approval mark by regulation 5 of the Designation of Approval Marks Regulations and shown at item 12 or 13 or 14 or 16 or, in the case of a vehicle having a maximum speed not exceeding 25 mph, 27 or 28 of Schedule 4 to those Regulations, or (b) a marking designated as an approval mark by regulation 4 of the Designation of Approval Marks Regulations and shown at item 1A or 1B or 1C or 1E or 5A or 5B or 5C or 5E or 8C or 8D or 8E or 8F or 8G or 8H or 8K or 8L or 20C or 20D or 20E or 20F or 20G or 20H or 20K or 20L or 31A or 31C or, in the case of a vehicle having a maximum speed not exceeding 25 mph, 1H or 1I or 5H or 5I of Schedule 2 to those Regulations; and “British Standard mark” means the specification for sealed beam headlamps published by the British Standards Institution under the reference BS AU 40: Part 4a: 1966 as amended by Amendment AMD 2188 published in December 1976, namely “B.S. AU40”.

Not so, there are laws covering this. You can read about it here where it clearly states that head lights must meet regulatory approval standards ie you can't just fit any old light whether that be halogen, led or otherwise.

Well despite a cold morning and not driving it since December, it starts up nicely once I realised I hadn't connected the starter relay earth to my bus bar. VID_20210306_085604.mp4

As I understand it: early engine makers were gun smiths as they had the skills required of making a tight fitting object travel down a bore. You propel the tight fitting object (a shell or cannon ball) with an explosive charge. A gun can be thought of as a one shot engine. In the same way a charge of air/fuel (or air for a diesel) is drawn into the cylinder of an engine when naturally aspirated to explode and force the piston down the bore on the power stroke. If the air is forced in under pressure the charge of air will be greater, hence the name supercharged. There are a number of ways of compressing the air to achieve a supercharge. A turbo is just one way.

Quick update. The loom is ready to be fitted. Can't wait to drive my 110 again. Fingers crossed it all works! Big improvement on the fuse box wiring. A nice thick earth to each corner that will all link up to a bus bar in the battery box. Improved connectors for all switches and lights etc.