monkie

Then your chassis will go rusty

I've always used the Valeo HD kit and never had any issues. https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-200tdi-300tdi-clutch-kit-valeo/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwLKFBhDPARIsAPzPi-LGfhxyyY0orL6qCe1INlcAy-w5c26blRj4yDxzH108EEs_mOFfGlYaAlzIEALw_wcB

Also worth checking the guage it self is properly earthed as that will affect the reading. Before you fit the sender in the tank, wire it up and turn the ignition on so that you can see when the float is at the bottom the gauge reads empty and then check the half full and full positions so you know for sure the sender is giving the correct signal for the gauge. That way you conclusively know there isn't a mismatch problem between gauge, sender and wiring.

Indeed. My old fuse box was so bad (badly wired, badly modified, badly aged) that some fuses would simply drop out of place if going over bumps with a degree of enthusiasm

Absolutely as Western says. It was this nonsense repeatedly happening as well as the indicators not behaving that led me to run a 30amp earth cable to each corner of my 110 that go straight to the negative battery terminal. No more weird earthing problems

I really like that. Thinking of things cosmic, "Orion"? As in the constellation (the hunter, he must have been a strong bloke) and not the Ford car of the 80s and 90s.

I wouldn't describe it as the long way round because I think it will make the job of replacing the cartridge quicker and easier in the long run. Plus far less likely to give your knuckles a good scraping as the circlip puts up a very good fight!

Having done this job myself on a 300tdi, I would say you need the room to see what you are doing properly and space to remove the big circlip holding the compressor housing in place as well as the bolts that hold the turbine housing on. Removing the turbo is a straightforward job for anyone who is handy with a spanner. Oil feed removed, oil return removed, downpipe unclamped and undo the nuts and bolts holding the manifolds to the head. Replacement is reversal of removal with a nice new manifold gasket. If removing the turbo is not a task you feel able to tackle then I would say get someone else to change the casset for you.

I think creosote would be better in a leaky defender

Can't say I like the look of wood, however I imagine repairs could be done quickly and cheaply by hacking the damaged bit out and popping in a bit of sawn off CLS secured with a couple of screws

A lovely piece of work, almost too lovely for the back of a land rover!

The clock and 12v outlet are supplied by permanent live connections so are independent of the ignition switch. You can buy either just the switch or just the steering lock. The switch has an off position, on where all is live and the glowplug part to energise the relay and the critical stuff like the stop solenoid. Then the start position.

Welcome to the forum. As others have said some pictures would be nice. What engine does it have? Have you got a welder?!

May I ask where you got the fittings from please Mo. On this close up picture I have, you can see I don't have a gas tight seal going by the soot marks. I want to sort that out.

Your wood working skills look a lot neater than mine! Great job.

That looks great. Keep the pictures coming of your progress. I'm think of some thing along these lines myself.

I think with good planning, you can eliminate a lot of them in most cars I've seen. I think they are mostly for the convenience of the manufacturers. My point is that I chose to use mainly econoseal and superseal on my rebuild and they were not cheap. I fitted connectors where LR had. I think you can easily loose the connectors to the engine harness and chassis harness. In my experience the superseal connectors aren't great with thicker 17amp wires even when using the wider rubber seals.

That's interesting to read about the labels on heatshrink. I got a Brother E something or other and the genuine heatshrink tape casset. So far I have used it on the wires to my gauges that are right next to the hot oily engine so I'll see how they take the abuse. The experience I have gained so far on this rewire project is that if anyone wants to do just one thingand is on a tight budget to improve the electrics on their vehicle: I would say run a nice thick earth wire of say 35 amp capacity to each corner that go straight to the clamp on the battery negative terminal. Most of my budget was spent on connectors and I'm hindsight you can eliminate almost all of them in my opinion.

I don't like the ones stack give you with the gauge as it isn't particularly gas tight. It looks like you have got a compression fitting which looks much better. I will investigate.

What adapters did you use there Mo?

@reb78 here's some pictures for you. First ones of the practice in the old turbo so you can see clearly where I drilled the manifold. Second one is showing the probe in place on my 19J.

I kept the old turbo that failed so I practiced on it before putting a drill near the one currently fitted (the one I bought off you Richard). I drilled and tapped the manifold to M12 and made an adapter to take the npt fitting that came with the gauge. That wasn't satisfactory as the brass adapter I made was too weak not enough metal for an M12 thread. I ended up using plan B which is drilling a hole (manifold off the engine) and using the plane holder that is held by a large clip that comes with the stack egt guage kit. This isn't overly satisfactory long term and I need to fiddle about with it a bit to get it to sit right. When I get my 200Tdi engine I will remove the manifold and ask a local engineering company to drill and tap an NPT thread for me. That is the route I would recommend. I'll get some pictures for you later on. When I inserted the probe, I put all the way and then backed out a bit so the tip is somewhere near the centre of the gas flow.

Ive gone down a rabbit hole now (seems to be a Land rover thing!) I've got myself a maxi/midi fuse box and the Bussmann fuse and relay box from @SteveG. I am going to run run a feed from the bus on the starter (removing all others) to the maxi/midi fuse box to delete all the unfused circuits from the original loom.

Foot down on the A303 in 5th gear going 70mph or climbing hills. I reduced my speed just a little (60-65mph) and the EGT dropped significantly. The 19J maximum boost should be about 0.65 Bar, but I'm guessing the lack of an intercooler is resulting in the higher EGT. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has measured the EGT in a 19J. I'm guessing this might be another reason for the lower reliability of the 19J engine if you can quite easily get the EGT high.

I've fitted a Stack EGT gauge with the probe fitted just below the turbo where all 4 exhaust outlets meet in the manifold on my 19J. I'm quite shocked. Driving at what I thought was quite normal (normal boost not going over 0.6 bar) my EGT got to 750'C and was climbing before I backed off. I'm wondering if this accounts for my melted pistons last year as I did a motorway trip without the gauge so was in blissful ignorance of EGT? The good thing about having the EGT gauge is it has made my driving style back off a bit.