monkie

Ah, yes I got it the wrong way round. Absolutely as above.

Ah, yes I got it the wrong way round. Absolutely as above.

Firstly, blue smoke is often burning oil. Unburnt diesel is white smoke and can be clouds of it, it will smell strongly of diesel and sting your eyes. Oil in a 19J can be from cracked pistons. If it is unburnt fuel down to advanced timing you can set and adjust quite easily on the 19J. To check the timjng it is possible to lock the engine at TDC and the injection pump using special tools available on ebay. There is a hole at the bottom of the flywheel housing underneath the vehicle to lock the crank at TDC and there is a small bolt in the side of the injection pump where you can screw in a spring loaded tool. It will pop into the pump when it rotated to the correct potion for TDC. Failing all this, you can make an adjustment to the pump timing by rotating the injection pump insitue without removing the timing cover and belt. To do this, slacken off all 4 fuel lines to the injectors, loosen the rear pump mount and slackening off the 3 mounting nuts that hold the pump on the rear of the engine timing case. This will allow you to rotate the pump a small amount either way. Before you do this, Mark the pump in relation to the timing case so you know where you started from. From memory rotating the injection pump anti clockwise (when looking at the engine from the front) will retard the injection timing. Having it slightly retarded will reduce/eliminate white smoke and make for a smoother running engine albeit slightly less available power.

The fact checking responsibilities surely sit with the person taking the advice. Often what is stated on here is a case of "this is how I did it and this is what happened" as in Western's 200Tdi rebuild. There is no obligation to take the advice or contribute to the forum. Anyone who isn't satisfied is free to go elsewhere and write us all off as a collection of idiots as far as I'm concerned.

Gauges are cab orinments until something starts to go wrong. Voltmeters showing a drop in voltage maybe a diode has gone, or raised EGT telling you to back off a bit... Also I believe there's a lot of value in a normal reading when you have trouble to help rule things out.

I think I misunderstood what it was saying. I thought it was saying the Land Rover oil pressure switch was an M10 thread - mine is not. I have ordered the relevant T-piece from Merlin Motorsport as well as the adapter for the M16 port now I finally got the blanking plug removed. I had to remove the vacuum pump and throttle linkage to the FIP to be able to swing a spanner in there to get it undone.

Thanks for that Ralph. I have found that my oil pressure switch in the 19J is a 1/8"NPT thread. I think if I get the correct T piece from merlin motorsport it will allow the bulky Stack sender to sit out of the way of the oil cooler pipes and let me retain the oil pressure switch. I've now got to figure out what bonkers thread is used on the blanking plug at the front of the filter housing where I plan to put the oil temp sender. I'm hoping for M12 but I bet it isn't!

I got the Stack guages which came with the corresponding senders. I have checked for the banjo and extension piece in your diagram (ETC4034 and ETC4033) and the are not available so I was thinking of using the port for the oil pressure switch. If memory serves me well the Stack Oil temperature sender was an M10 thread size, I will have to look up the presure sender dimensions. Do you know what the thread size is on the oil filter housing for the blanked off port you used for the oil temperature sender and that for the oil pressure switch? When I look up the part number for the oil pressure switch it does come up with M10 thread. If it is M10, I find that odd for a Land Rover of the 20th century!

Superb, thank you Ralph. Even including the part numbers for the add on bits and pieces for both senders.

Thread revival alert! @western do you still have this set up? I'm looking how I can fit my oil temperature sender with out drilling into the sump. I see this is for your oil pressure sender, how did you fit your oil temperature sender?

... But you're in a Land Rover, you already know you're late before you've even set off

You could always temporarily fit a known good one from the front to check the wiring works

Yep, I think Western had it spot on. Carefully check the connections are right and then recheck the earths. In my experience the most devious electrical demons are summoned through bad earths.

I'm afraid my wiring is a bit too 20th century for the Td5 era!

Is this any help? I struggled to find a comprehensive list of land rover specific wiring colour code so I made my own from my 1988 loom and circuit diagrams: G=green, LG = light green, R=red, U=blue, W=white, O=orange, P=purple, N =brown, B=black, Y=yellow, S=slate(grey), K=pink. G fused ignition on GR left turn signal GW right turn signal GP brake lights GN reverse light GB fuel sender GY heater blower motor switch GS heater blower motor switch LGG oil temperature LGW oil pressure sender LGB screen wash pump LGP trailer warning light LGN hazard switch to flash relay R running lights RO right side/tail RB left side/tail RY rear fog RLG wiper motor RW 12v socket illumination U head lights UO right main US left main UK left dip UB right dip UG wiper motor W unfused live ignition on WR ignition switch to starter relay WO ignition switch to heater blower fuse and radio WB rear window heater WS fuel sender to guage WN oil pressure warning lamp WY hand brake warning light WG Heated rear window switch to relay/dash light P unfused permanent live PG fuse to heater blower motor PO seat belt warning light (where fitted) PW interior cab light PU door switch (where fitted) N permanent live from positive terminal bus on starter solenoid NLG wiper motor NY charge warning light NLG flasher relay NW fuse to heated rear window relay B earth BU diff lock engaged warning light BW brake warning light BR hazard switch illumination BK heated rear window relay to diode BS heated rear window diode to voltage sensitive switch YB Glowplug Feed

Indeed. What I'm doing is inspired by @ianmayco68 custom dash. I have tacho, coolant and fuel in the main binnacle, then I have some aluminium sheet I'm making a new dash slightly angled towards the driver to house the boost, EGT, oil pressure, oil temp, volt meter and a USB socket. I'll put up a picture when I've sorted it out

As usual @western I'm indebted to your sage advice. Perfect fit on the 19j cylinder head

Here's my project... I've got to find a place to put this lot. My wife said she could think of "several places I could stick them". Not sure what she means as I didn't think she'd ever fit any guages to a land rover

What EGT guages are folk running, where have people put the probe in relation to the exhaust turbine?

Great info. Thanks Ralph.

I have something like this. I can't remember exactly, but yes I think it maywell be left handed thread - you'll soon find out!

Yes, that's a good point. I noticed a few different coloured wires in my main loom that were unused as they were for unfitted optional extras. I can't imagine they would fit a chassis loom with no green/brown wire for the reverse light.

Thanks Ralph, how do people put the Stack sender in the head for 200Tdi? The sender supplied is 1/8"NPT with adapters for 3/8"NPT and 1/2" NPT.

I have an LT77 gearbox and the switch is easily seen if you remove the panel under the centre seat. I'm not sure if the location of the switch varies with the other gearboxes but have a look on Google images or land rover workshop on the parts diagrams.

Not very difficult. You take the 12v supply from a green wire behind the dash (green is a fused live with ignition on), it should be on the same fuse that fuses the brake lights, indicators and instrument lights). Run the feed to the switch on the gear box, then a green/brown wire from the switch to the light on the rear of the vehicle. The standard reverse light units just have the green/brown supply and an earth. Job done.