Frax

Hi Just went to fit new windscreen wiper spindle wheel boxes to my TD5 bulkhead and find the hole in the bulkhead is oval not round. Is there an oval insert (washer) to fill the caps round the spindle? I know they won’t really move but I don’t want any water ingress. Regards Frax

Hi Tom Have a look at this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31&st=0&p=179&hl=+fuel%20+pump&fromsearch=1entry179 I am not sure what you are trying to do or why. Frax

Yes it was about 10mm thick - thicker than the original tow bracket. As far as I remember I used 1" box with two plates welded at the ends to tie it to the chassis. Frax

Hi Westerns brackets are the ones I used, you may just be able to see it on the Landcruiser. As said I fixed a bracket to the bottom two bolt holes on the drop plate and tied it the chassis about 3 feet back so that the strain was directed to the chassis and stopped it twisting on the mounting points. Sorry can’t get a better picture as I sold the Cruiser and it now lives in Africa. Frax

Hi I would not bother – I had my 90 chassis acid washed galvanised & powder coated for £280. It is up to you ! Frax

Thanks Western Just though it might be of interest to anyone doing a 300tdi conversion as I think to original thread was for a 90 of 200tdi. Regards Frax

This is a great link by gruntus and I used it a lot in my conversion. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38064 Most of the point I found to be correct for the 300tdi and required but Point 1= not required for 300tdi. Point 4 = not required as fuel filter is fitted to the wing. Point 5 = threaded holes available. Point 6 = two holes already there. Point 9 = Not required as it is a straight swap. Point 11 = not required as same as 300tdi. Some stuff that is required for a TD5 300TDI conversion. Relay bracket from behind the dash = simple drill out the two rivets and mark up and drill & rivet to TD5. Starter motor fuse box = I had to cut this free from the 300tdi (welded along the top and bottom) cleaned up & marked position on TD5 and drilled two holes in bracket and through into foot well & riveted in place. Three tabs on drivers foot well for holding connectors on 300tdi are not on TD5 but I never moved these. The bulkhead earth wire bolt on the left under brake pipe was not there so M6 Rivetnut was fitted, Bolt for holing relay on right was also not there so again another M6 rivetnut was fitted. Hope this is of some help. Regards Frax

I had the same problem with a Landcrusier I had with a 4” lift and 35” tyres. Fitted another drop plate which you can get from any caravan place. I then fabricated up a bar that tied the drop plate to a point about 3 -4 feet back on the rear chassis. Frax

I blasted my callipers with the old seal in to keep the grit out then painted them. Stripped them down and fitted stainless steel pistons and seals. I also had a pig of a job with the retaining rings but found out later that it helps to fit them upsides down before fitting the pistons as this helps them get into shape. Fitting disks is also a bit of a pig so if you don’t need them don’t bother. As for pads I always change them on both sides at the same time so you know when they ware that both side will need done, I do keep the old pads if they are in good nick just in case you get a piston sticking and uneven ware. You can always use an old pad to get you by. Frax

Thank you for that Paul. Seconds too late but never mind and they are a good bit cheeper but never mind I am happy, or I will be when I get them fitted. Frax

Thanks Ralf Yer a star where would we all be without you. Order sent Frax

Would any of you knowledgeable people out there know where I can get the mating part for the two plugs below? Part No’s would be great. Bought a rear loom for my 300tdi 90 about 6 months ago and have just transferred the front loom from my old bulkhead to new and found that the loom has been cut at some point and fitted with bullet connectors. These are the plugs that send the feed to the rear and are down on the side of the bulkhead near the gear box tunnel. There are two of them as shown with 6 pins in each and both look the same. Daft me though that it was only the back loom that had been butchered. To make thing worse the rear loom was advertised as a 300tdi 90 – well I think his 90 must have been on steroids as it has grown by about 4 feet. I am not going to cut it just make a coil and tuck it out of harm way. Frax

Hi I made my own from 4mm steel have a look at the Members Vehicles Forum under http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64578 Frax

Injectors do get worn and clogged with dirt. This will give you a bad burn and poorer performance. You can get them overhauled and the burst pressure set for about £60 - £80. Frax

That's the one........Thank you. Frax

Not sure if that is it,it may be. The one I found is with the main loom going to the dash and it is located behind the dash. I am going back out soon and will try to get a picture. Frax

Hi I have just stripped the dash out of my 1995 300tdi and found a blue plug which is unused. It is slim with what looks like two strip connectors in it. Has anyone any idea what it is for? I know it is unused but are there any upgrades that would be easy to do with the aid of this plug. Regards Frax

Hi Maverik Coat the inside of the bulb holder with Vaseline and the connector, its great for keeping water out and terminals clean. If ye get 9v you should even get a glow. Frax

I would try the bulb holder, the brass plate that the bulb sits on get corroded and go green, try to get some emery in there and give them a polish also rub the solder drop on the bulb end . Even with 11v the bulb should light. Frax

I know that Land Rover are not known for their tolerances but that is taking it a bit too far. Frax

Thank you Ralf. It just looks wrong. Frax

At the bottom of the power steering unit there is an arm described as the tie bar (item 9 if this works). Should there be a bush on this part ? Part 9 goes through the hole in part 19 at that point but the hole at 19 is about three times the shaft size. Am I missing something ???? Frax

Thank you for all the replies; I think I will have a look for some rubber tape. Dont think Tiger Seal would be a good idea thinking about it. Knowing my luck if I stick it down I will need it out & if I dont stick it down I will never need it out. Frax

Do any of you have an alternative to the seals that Land Rover use to seal the seat box to rear bulkhead also the floor plates and seat box to floor. Would silicon or Tiger seal do the same job or is there a rubber strip that you can buy that is sticky on one side just in case they need to be removed at some point. Regards Frax

I got some 1” box about 18” long and cut it along the length and landed up with 1” at one end and 0 at the other – if you understand what I mean. It now looks like two tapered U sections. Bolted the seat runners to these and then onto the original mounts. This lets the seat slide back over the 1” rise on the back bulkhead. Frax