JeffR

Halfrauds used to sell an alloy wheel wax for winter use which worked quite well and was cheap. Used it on the wifes Mini alloys when we moved back to Gods country, but ran out, note to self must find something similar

Forget the 20mm hispanos and go for a 30mm minigun, would require a second alternator and some ejection ports in the wings, mind you , given the way discos rust, landrover have probably pre-installed those....

Given that a new drop arm is not scarily expensive, an angle grinder works every time.

Amplifier pack on dizzy? Cured a similar problem with mine.

you missed out the word theoretically from that sentence

I was thinking along the lines of major components such as brakes axles etc as there are more low mileage 300tdi's in breakers yards than 200tdi's

As the title says, curiosity causes me to ask......

Biological washing powder made into a thin paste, worked in with a reasonably stiff brush seems to work quite well.

Got a Bluepoint rivetter, but lost (don't know how) the nozzle that fits the rivets and you can't buy the nozzles separately. Never mind the new Machine Mart catalogue has just arrived......

Rivetter is cheap,compressors are expensive!

No to the air rivetter, yes to sealed rivets of all shapes and sizes, by the time I run out I'll have forearms bigger that the Terinators thighs.

Half the touble with the smooth roof is that the bloody thing drums at motorway speeds, driving me completely bonkers on long trips, besides, the ribbed roof is a thing of beauty..., you can tell I've just got 2000 pop rivets thro the post can't you.

Wonderful! Can now see about having some bent up, Ilike ribbed roofs, what can i say. Before anyone suggests "just swappin" the roof, remember I fixed the bugger in place with Tigerseal.........

Can someone with a 110 ribbed roof, measure the height, width (includin "feet") and side angle of the ribs for me?

MUC1005 IT IS THEN Cheers Western

Bugger! It's gonna make ordering new ones very interesting....

As above! What id the difference between MUC1005 and CQW000010, other than the latter is half the price of the former....

Nowt to be sorry for, it was worth a try and I've learnt something new, all in all a good result! I'm just loosing the will to live at the thought of doing window number two, but to quote the late Magnus Magnusson "I've started, so I'll finish"...

Be very wary of cheap spots/driving lamps. I have found that the reflectord corrode quicker than a 1970's Lancia, they let in water and the mounts are so flimsy the lamps wobble around like Jordans bust. Better to save up and buy reputable makes (I like Hellas and KC, both of which you can buy spares for).

Got them from Woolies trim: http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-314-plain-felt.aspx Using the 1inch x 1/8, two 6 foot lengths £7.99 inc p and p. Quick update on using silicone removing goop - works fine on thin layers, but will not touch thick stuff (well it sort of turns the surface layer into semi-liquid snotty jelly like stuff). So quick trip to model shop resulted in a cheap modelling knife kit with a vast range of weird shaped blades and about 4 hours of bad language later, most of the silicone is gone. So, one down, one to go. Another useful tip - rather than spraying the felt with waterproofing spray, try using Nitty Gritty Head Lice Killer! This stuff is silicone in a solvent, when it dries it impregnates the felt with silicone and makes it super slippy. You know what, with Landrovers sometimes you've just gotta think outside the box.....

During the summer, my kids have this dreadful habit of needing cool air in the back, so sadly sliding back windows are a necessary evil.

I never realised you could get stuff to remove silicone!, shall be popping out to screwfix tomorrow, that's, hopefully, one less job. Luckily I have a spare sliding window in a very corroded frame, mind you the tint is different, but to be honest I'm past caring...

As the monsoon season is having a short break in Northumberland, I thought, Lets rebuild the side windows on the 110. As a temporary measure, in a vain attempt to slow down water leaks, last winter I used a wee bit of silicone to fill a few gaps where the felt used to live, well lets be honest here, two bloody tubes of the stuff. So removes lots of pop rivets (guess who got 2000 in the post this morning...) and sets about splitting the window frame. The 4 countersunk set screws that Landrover thoughtfully fixed in place with corrosion were the first hurdle to ovecome, not to mention the 2 2inch self tappers holding the "Rail, side guide- draught" in place, easy combination of cobalt drills and moles grips did the job. You know the phrase "sticks like sh*t to a blanket"? Well I am sure it was coined for silicone sealant in window channels. As I pen this ode it is coming up to 5.30pm, I've just managed to split the frame having started at 11.30 am, I've snapped 15 scalpel blades, the pen knife bit on my Gerber multi tool and turned one sliding window section into appoximately 2million much smaller side window sections (Note to oneself - under no circumstances whatsover tw*t Landover side window frames with a lump hammer when attempting to split the two halves) and I've still got to try and remove the 350g of silicone that has, apparently, taken up permanent squatters rights in the window frame sections (and is even more difficult to remove), oh and by the way, did you know that it is very easy to bend the alloy extrusion that the window frame is made from, No?, well you do now. Would have been easier to live with the rattly glass and water leaks. So children, the moral of this story is temporary fixes are a waste of time and effort, DO THE BLOODY JOB CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME AND YOU ONLY HAVE TO DO IT ONCE.

Forget swapping series engines with Montego diesels, one of these would do the trick nicely :hysterical: :hysterical:

Avoid Draper, the sockets are fine, but the ratchet, well, lets put it this way, got a 1/4 drive Sealy ratchet that can put up with more abuse.