JeffR

Look for the A592 joining Ambleside to Patterdale, NGR : NY 401 079, Pub at the top of the pass does a really good steak.....

You've gotta do the Kirkstone Pass, the old one called the Struggle, not the new one. Then imagine what it was like going over that pass with the 110 on a recovery truck in the dark....

Got those seats in the back of my 110, they make one hell of a difference, expensive though and I don't know if you can fit them to later models.

Not yet, but having repaired/replaced the following: top hat sections wheel arch boxes (including fabricating a new battery box - installed by previous owner so had to stick with it) Seat belt mounts - I advise anyone with an older 110 SW to check the bolts holding the seat belt mounts, mine had corroded to less than a third of their original diameter, they would have passed a pull test, but would have sheared in a crash Load space floor Crossmembers stripped and painted Still have to sort out second row seat toe board (YRM will be getting a visit...) Then i will be able to line the back.

Been refurbishing the rear tub of my 110 SW (usual 1/2 day job turned into 7 month opus) and was looking for something to cover the wheel arch boxes and load area with. Didn't want to go the ali checker plate route as it's the family hack and I'm sick to death of pop rivets.... Finally found these really nice folks in Brum: http://langdeanrubber.com/ So i ordered a 10m roll of 3mm thick checker plate rubber sheeting, shock , horror, they sent it when they said they would, it arrived when they said it would and the qlity is as good as they said it was, and it wasn't expensive!!!! (£79.20 delivered). They have my recomendation, good folks and VERY helpful. Now where have I put that big can of Evostic

Some very useful ideas there, this will keep me occupied for a while!

Can't comment on pod fitted to a Disco, but I have one fitted to a Defender. The spots that came supplied were adequate, soon replaced by Hellas, then Cibies, then finally got bored and changed to 4 Cibie 5 3/4 inch full beam units in proper backing bowls. Pedestal mounted spots tended to vibrate like buggery and were nigh on impossible to set correctly, whereas the full beam units are very stable and very easy to set. it's a bit of a fiddle making the backing bowls fit, but worthwile.

Got one of them, it works. I find that a wall drive sealy socket fits quite nicely and just ignore the tommy bar.

Last year I trashed 3 sets of waders (one Gortex set and two neoprene sets) - get the bloody things into production now!

You lucky, lucky expletive deleted! My garage is barely large enough to fit the wifes Mini in, the "garage" I use for the 110 is a large blue tarp.... Mind you as the wife has just pointed out, 9mx12m floor space has the potential to be a fanatastic junk storage area , after all remember that useful stuff, like computer software, has the tendancy to expand to fill the available space....

Not that impressed with Screwfix rivets, they seem to "set" far too easily and boy do they rot (ask me how I know that then), bottom line with poppers is buy the best quality you can, these ones are not the cheapest you can find, but they are good: link http://www.toolfastd...ind_Rivets.html I tend to use the screwfix jobbies for temporay fixing and alignment, then rplace em with better qaulity ones (most of the time!)

I did think of simple, but, as I have the memory span of a goldfish I want a fit and forget method. Besides, it'll give me something to do inbetween bouts of work and as a technical exercise should be a lot of pain fun! Many years ago I had an eastern european car (can't remember if it was a Lada or a Moskvich) which had such a thing fitted by the factory, but that was manual and the string snapped, oh and all the "rubber" parts fitted to the vehicle ceased to be flexible after about a fortnight, but thats another story for another day.

Now that the weather has got warmer and I've a few hours spare (once I get a truculent exhaust sorted that is) I've been thinking of making a thermostaically controlled radiator blind that would sit behind the grill of a Defender. First idea was a 2mm thick venetian blind style thing, but that got too complicated, finally decided on a roller blind config, but for the love of me I cannot think of how to link the motor to the rad/water temp... Did condider a manual version using either a choke or bonnet rease cable, but being a lazy sod, i could forsee a fried engine... So has anyone got any suggestions?

RE Freelanders, in my family we considered a Freelander, however, child number 4 didn't half squeal when put on the roofrack for a family day out.... We currently have 3 Landrover products (in various states of functionality) and our sensible car is a 1981 Minni 1000. The latter is just about the best fun you can have with your clothes on. It'll out corner most other cars, sit happily (unlike the driver) at 70 on the motorway and returns 40mpg! There you go problem solved, buy the 101 and a Classic Mini....

They stopped manufacturing it middle of last year! Don't know why, but they did and I'm down to the last bit in the bottom of an old tin!

As you cannot buy the stuff any more , what alternatives are folks using?

You will get very bored having a vehicle where "every journey is not an adventure". I mean half the "fun" of LRs is waiting to see what part breaks next, go for the 101, you know it makes sense.

No injuries to report (after smashing my fingers to buggery last year I'm kinda more careful) and Yes the bloody exhaust is still in situ.... It simply will not budge, I have managed to deform the pipes using a combination of of chisels, screwdrivers, hammers, heat and a great deal of bad language (the latter being particularly inefective...), being underneath a 110 in monsoon conditions is not pleasant, so when the weather improves, thats it, the bloody axle is coming off and the violence will reach biblical proportions. Who would have thought that a piece of bloody stainless steel exhaust could cause so much grief and wasted time, mind you I have a cunning plan to torch the exhaust mounts off and move them , now that would work, if only I could work out which bit of garden hedge the angle grinder is currently living in...

Makes you want to cover it in baby oil.... better stop there before mods get upset

Just looked at your idea ZARDOS, trouble is the joint I'm trying to split IS the furthest forward!

Yeah, jbs, tried that. Beginning to consider taking the axle off to remove the exhaust the attacking the bloody thing with a sledge hammer...

Believe me when I say I have hit it with a hammer, started with a small one then graduated to the biggest Fcuker I own, sod will simply not budge. Damn it, whatever is holding the section together is stronger than my welding.....

I am trying to separate the exhaust (SS stainless) sections on my 110 at the joints and failing miserably: Brute strength and ignorance - failed propane/acetylene torch - failed Driving chisel into "split" section - failed Gallons of releasing oil - failed Throwing tools round garden - failed but felt GOOD Has anyone got any ideas? Only need to "twist" the section that goes over the axle by about 3inches to stop it fouling the petrol tank. I am beginning to think that this bloody Landrover has an aversion to MOT's.... Before anyone asks, no, jointing paste was not used when I put the bugger together 2 years ago.

Been seeing a stunning swb white Ibex round Haltwhistle, does it belong to anyone from the forum? Just being nosey and jealous....

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