JeffR

They shall all raise a glass in Valhalla

very difficult finding paint that is a good match for rust and aluminium corosion....

My rear door is a "patern" panel, can't remember were I got it from and you cannot remove the stuff with an angle grinder! The second row doors are genuine landrover replacements and the black protective coat fell off after a couple of weeks. Kinda makes you wonder how the vehicle has lasted 20 years!

The paint is new (arrived Friday!), I have been doing a bit of an experiment today and found that where the primer was very thin (see thro) the adhesion was excellent, were it was thick adhesion was carp! So gonna try thinning the primer down and painting a door with it this evening....... Thats if I can get that black paint new panels arrive covered in off. Watch this space....

Been refurbishing the load area of my 110 and I am having awful problems getting the etch primer (Tractol 729) to stich to the aluminium. Metal was prepared as follows, keyed using a sanding pad, degreased then wiped with the thinners supplied with the paint, primer applied with a roller and left to dry foe a min of 4hrs, normal primer applied, left to dry then top coat applied. The result is as per the photo below: Where am I going wrong?

Well, thats the load area floor out, pressure washer did not shift the chalk slurry out of the crossmembers whatsoever. Now at the Fred Flintstone stage: Thought I would add a pic showing what happens when chalk and aluminium spend a lot of time together: The really interesting bit was finding that the top hat sections were attached to the floor by 6 (YES!) spot welds per side, most of which had dissolved....... Forgot to add the spot welds wer only at the ends, there were none in the middle. So the moral is that if you use your vehicle in chalky areas make sure you pressure wash the bugger to death, specifically the front and rear floor crossmembers.

at that rate they are gonna get it!

Just tried to order a sheet of 2mm x 2000mm x 1000mm ali sheet over the web, total cost breakdown as follows Metal £49.95 Delivery £59.95!!!!!!!!! Kinda unbelievable when the delivery cost is greater than the material cost. What is this country coming to

Well, having spent all of today fabricating the passenger side toe board corners, and removing half a hundredweight of chalk slurry from the various crossmembers, I am about as p*ssed off with landrovers as it is humanly possible to get. Shims are about the last thing on my mind at the mo, but I suppose I'll nock some up out of 2mm plate later on this evening, after I've cut a new floor pan and riveted the top hat section in place and worked out how fix the bloody thing in place, the phrase " shove a broomshank up my butt and I'll sweep the floor as I go around " springs to mind. And to top it all, the MOT has run out........

Welcome to my world! I started a brief tidy up of body cappings and am now into a full rear tub rebuild!

Cheers mate, gonna shim it out anyway, one less gap to fill up with crud. Never mind by the time I'm finished, the rear tub will be stronger than when it left the factory.

Well what started as a minor job has kinda got out of hand. Got the floor out in front of the rear seats and am in the process of rebuilding the floor corners. Oh and whilst I am rabbiting, man those huckbolt things are bloody hard! Took the tip off a cobalt drill removing three of them. Angle grinder is a much better option. Now another quick question, should there be a gap between the body outrigger (you know the bugger that rots out on station wagons and the heelboard, or should there be shims in place. Hope the photo helps

Cheers chaps. Looks like I'll be replacing only the knackered section and using M5 bolts! As the corrosion is very localised, I think that for this winter, I'll get away with a cosmetic plate over and replace the seat belt mounts with new ones as the crossmember underneath is solid. I really am beginning to hate this vehicle with a passion that is undescribable. I only found this heap of trouble when I repaired one body capping, replaced another and tidied up the wheel arch boxes.

Due to unforeseen problems (bloody electrolytic corrosion if you want the truth) I am gonna have to replace the load area floor in my 110. Now it is held in place by steel Pins (part No 79283) and collars (part no 79289), now for the love of me I cant figure out how the hell you take these things apart. They appear to be 6mm in diameter, so rather than replacing like for like, I was contemplating using stainless M5 button heads (and a suitable isolating washer), that is, if , I can get the "pins" out... The floor pan is rippled and lumpy, so just riveting a cover plate over is not really an option as that will just hide the problem. Can I just grind these little buggers off and tap the remains out with a drift? The crossmembers and top hat sections are fine ( ), it's just the bloody floor plate thats gone around the seat belt mounts :angry2: , beginning to wish I'd never lifted the carpets now! Any alternative suggestions would be very well received..... Also , just how do you fit these pins as the pin appears threaded, yet the collar is not?

I watched a video of how to use it and was quite shocked at just how un fiddly it appeared to be, on my Christmas list!

The VSR, if its trashed, will cost an arm and a leg to buy new! There is a thread in the Tech section on how to bypass it.

NO. A few years ago, my wife was coming back from somewhere in the 110 V8 we had at the time. Now she had given birth a few months earlier as was, , how can I put this, completely bloody brain dead ("It's the hormones"). Never mind she's tanking down the M5 and came off at the Tiverton roundabout (couldn't tell you why, we lived nowhere near bloody Tiverton....) and went from 5th to 2nd at about 60, and knocked the overdrive out. Don't know how many revs she was pulling, but the back two conrods exited the block big time. Now most sensible, rational, normal human beings would have stopped, called the AA and thought of a bloody good excuse for hubby. Not my missus, she put her foot down and carried on! About half hour later I looked out of the sitting room window to see the mechanics (who looked after said V8) mum wandering up the garden path with son number one. "WTF, thinks I" At that moment, the phone rings.... Conversation went along the lines of Mechanic "Jeff, you have gotts fffing see this" Me " see what?" " your V6 110" "F*CK" Shot round to have a looksee and was genuinely amazed/depressed/shocked and livid. There stood the 110 in a puddle of blood (well 20W40) steaming and ticking and looking very sorry for itself. Best bit was the mechanic turned the ignition key and it started, didn't sound well, but it ran. Went home to question missus: "WTF happened?" "it kinda made a very loud noise, then there was a bang, a tinkling noise and lots of smoke behind me, the smoke went away quite quckly but the little red oil can stayed lit up, so I took it to the garage, like you told me I should. Was kinda gutless going up the hill though" "WTF. WTF. WTF" She has all the mechanical sympathy of a car brakers yard apprentice. I gave up and went for a pint. Mind you it says a lot for Buicks original design that it would run as a V6, but then again, the Metro 6R4 prototype used a cut n shut V8....

Just had the same problems as most folk, staff not interested and one week later, still no return call. CWS have just lost yet another customer...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUNSON-TRAKRITE-LASER-BEAM-WHEEL-ALIGNMENT-GAUGE-77113-/390348029514?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item5ae28e3e4a try This....

Only use Tiger Seal on panels that will never be taken off, that stuff sticks like sh*t to a blanket. I,m waiting for thje small amount I got on my hands yesterday to grow off...

Cheers folks, sadly the whole thing needs repainted (after I get round to putting it back together). One day I will have a garage big enough to fit a 110 in, my tarp garage is not very warm, and when it rains (which it does a lot up here) the inspection lamp makes some seriously interesting sparks... Note to myself, Must check the RCD works!

Thats what I thought it might be, but there are soooo many shades of white..... So what is the difference between LRC.456, LRC.456(L) and LRC.456(Y)?

First Reg Oct 1991, pic may help!

Gonna love this chaps, I need to buy some paint to finish off some repairs, so has a look under the bonnet and the Paint Code bit on the chassis plate is BLANK. Never mind has a look at the Reg Docs, they say White!. Well thats narrowed it down a bit, not. How on earth do I find out whate bloody shade of white the wretched thing is?

Just nipped down to pick some bits up from Ronnie at YRM, just need to say thaks very much more sorting me out with some one off bits in such a short time! You are a star.