Simon_CSK

You could be on to something there as my horn doesn't work either only noticed yesterday and was on my list of things to do this weekend.

Given recent problems with water ingress I think the switched could be washed out. Yes mine is a manual.

The light goes on yes,

I have just taken 20" L322 alloys off my P38 and it improved the steering tremendously. Previously the steering was very twitchy. Why can people not leave them alone!!

My cruise control has just stopped working and I miss it. Where should I start looking? I know if it was a P38 or a classic I would start with the vacuum pipes is this the same idea?

About as much as I like marmite!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LPG the way to go. All the time.

I guess you like it then?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECOVERY-A-FRAME-TOWING-DOLLY-TRAILER-2-5t-EXTENDED-/150685700218?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item231591507a Get one of these and a second Disco. It is a Land Rover afterall

I did here it gurgle in the cab the last time I refilled. It looks like it is going to be a slow process of topping off and bleeding then.

Did think about the airlock but when I removed the airlock plug with the engine running it was blowing out great guns. Now I am getting a little heat through will try doing it again to see if it is an airlock.

My TD5 has no heater to speak of and when I checked the rdiator the cooling system was low and took 2 litres to top up. I now cannot get heat through to the cab any ideas?

Freelander 2 I had one new out of the box and would say it was a really nice car and very capable. As much as I liked the Disco 3 I liked the FL2 much more.

I think having consider it a little further his was an 07. I must admit for a long time I liked the Sports but for some reason have have changed and actually prefer the "proper" Range Rover myself. I do fancy an L322 to add to my collection, black of course, but it will need to wait a while I need to rebuild my CSK first.

Have you considered an L322? A friend of mine bought an 06 TDV8 fully loaded for £15k. It went very well and came with the full service history.

Don't know about the tensioners but certainly check out the chassis as they are very prone to tin worm. Had mine for 30k miles in 2.5 years and apart from replacing the chassis no real problems.

I use Autocad and Revit for my Architectural Practice. Both are serious number crunchers and for 5 years only used laptops. I wear a laptop out in a couple of years as I take them everywhere including on holiday. Currently have two old HP's and my latest one is a Sony Viao. Forget the Sony it is the worst laptop I have ever owned. I also now have two desktops as I was doing high end rendered images that were taking 24 hours to crunch through on the laptops.

De blinging can be quite easy. My current (Black ) P38 had 20" RR Sport alloys side steps and some extra chrome bits which did nothing for the look of the car IMHO. Now back to standard and looks and drives much better. In my opinion if you want an L322 or Sport save up and buy one in the long run it is cheaper than trying to make one out of an older model......Having said that I have a set of 20" alloys for sale if someone is thinking about it

Agree and I love my Black Range Rovers.

Peter You need to remove the exhaust down pipes.Be prepared to take off the manifolds as well so you need exhaust manifold gaskets. Remove the hand brake cable and the shifter cable then the props, inspection plate with this off disconnect the torque converter from the drive plate. Then bell housing and finally the cross member. You are right the gear box and transfer box are very heavy so be careful.

When I bought my GEMS P38 it had an overheating problem. I had a good block from my previous RR so I set about changing the engine. When I got the block out the flex plate was broken completely. Despite this the car ran perfectly however It would have only been time before the drive failed.

Peter It is an excellent way of getting spare parts and keeping your RR on the road. I bought one from Oxford just for parts and like you thought it was too good to break so put an engine in it. Ran it for 12 months and enjoyed it. I have spent about £1200 on it in a year and am going to break it only because I got a later model Vogue and it is the best way of getting the money out of it.

Try taking the plate off for the flywheel. There are a few bolts 10mm spanner and two 13mm spanner. This plate gives access to the flywheel. One the plate is off it give you access to disconnect the torque convertor from the drive plate. The drive plate is what you are trying to inspect as this breaks. I know because it happened to one of my P38's

Hi Just resolved the same issue. The RF receiver is the most likely issue, See my thread "Alarm and immobiliser"