Simon_CSK

Dave That is very plausable. My battery has just fallen over. Am going to get the overheating sorted in the next couple of weeks so once I have had a chance to drive it again I will see if a new battery cures it

It is the CT177 so it does have markers down the sides. Normal light yes. Thanks for your help.

I need to rewire the main 7 core cable in my Ifor car transporter trailer. Can anyone point me in the direction of what amperage cable I need? I would sooner buy too heavy a cable than too light.

It is an active anti roll bar find here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-SPORT-ARC-ACE-REAR-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-LRO24073-LR024072-/281376456684?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item418357ffec

I would have thought you could get the female plug from any salvaged Disco 2 or P38 and above.

Cool Thanks David I have three coolers s find one working sensor. Will need to sort the head gasket first though

I have two spare gearboxes so there should be a sensor on one of them. i have a friend with the software and a computer so it may be worth the time.

I keep getting a message on my dash which warns that the gearbox is over heating. This is probably not an uncommon fault however when I get it the car has only just started or has only done a few yards so there is no possibility of overheating. Does anybody have ideas what is wrong before I hook it up to a computer?

What's involved in doing the injector seals?

There is a bit of oil around the turbo but I cannot see any degradation to any of the pipes feeding into the turbo.

My disco TD5 has excessive black smoke and severely down on power when pulling away I have to rev the nuts off just to get moving. I suspect I have an injector problem. Any other possibilities?

A P38 will break to about £2k with little effort. At £600 it is worth the risk in my view. I buy them when I need a little project and have never lost out.

Whilst I had the drop the tank the job was not as bad as I thought. I was lucky in some respects because the tank was out last year when I replaced the chassis. What I did to repair the pipe was to cut it and splice it with rubber hose and two jubilee clips. Did the job perfectly.

Reb I had a leak from mine. It turned out to be the feed- pipe rubbing on the chassis which put a small leak. The fuewl pump forced the fuel out at a vast rate. Even a pin hole will leak a lot of fuel with the pressures involved.

Would agree. I have the TD5 as a daily hack but I much prefer the grumble of the V8 P38. Now it is on LPG it may get more use. Now to start rebuilding the CSK I think.

I don't know what it is about Range Rovers but I totally agree and completely get it. I have a D2 as well as the P38 and a Classic. The Disco is good as a hack but I simply adore the Rangies. They bring a smile to my face just starting the engine. I too am looking forward to starting the Restoration of my beloved CSK.

The working BECM is from a 4.0 se 1997 and my car is a 4.6 hse. Some food for thought there. I was considering changing the speedo and some of the other control gear at the same time.

I have just bought a P38 with 86k on it which I was told was overheating. There is white residue in the engine bay that looks like someone has used a block sealer without success (Have done the same myself ij the past) Not really run the engine myself but I went to fill the system up and put in K Seal as I have on £10 to loose for trying. I took off the top hose to fill from there and the water just backed up there was no over spill from the top radiator. I then put my finger in the top or the radiator and there was a lot of white sludge. My current thinking is that the radiator is blocked and that is what caused the overheating. The engine is sweet and starts on the button and ticks over nicely. Intersted in hearing other views. Sorry mods I know this is a Range Rover question but it is also a general V8 overheating question which is why I am posting here.

Interesting. Try adding this into the mix and see if it helps. When cold I have to crank the engine for a while, to get the fuel through to start it. This morning I flattened the battery. Also my rear screen had diesel residue on it as if I have a diesel leak. Not had a chance to look.

I was towing a transporter trailer the last day or two and had massive powerloss when the trailer was empty. At one stage with just the trailer I had to give the engine a lot of gas just to pull away from the lights up hill. Shortly afterwards I loaded the trailer with a P38 Range Rover and towed it 50 miles without problem. I am wondering what caused the power loss and why was it so intermittent? Would appreciate all thoughts.

Ok the BECM gave up and is now sorted but there are a few bugs with the car. I have bought a 1996 with a blown engine and was thinking about changing the BECM and some of the other components so I am thinking of changing them across if they are ok. Anybody done this and what are the pit falls?

Went to start my Disco tonight turned the key and it was absolutely dead. Had the problem before and it was the command wire on the starter motor so I crawled underneath with a torch and played with the wire as I have done many times before. No mater how many times I played with it I could not get it to go. Any other theories?

I have recently discovered that there are two ecus on the air suspension. There is the one under the drivers seat and there is one to control the valve block and is located in the vavle block box with the compressor and the valve block. If that is any help.

I know I bought a cable off eBay and it was great just plugged it in and it worked and cleared the fault. The problem now is I want to see what other functions I can play with if I can connect my laptop up to it properly. Now just wait for catastrophic failure having pressed the format BECM by mistake

Interesting I looked up ELM and it is only for petrol cars after 2001 and diesel after 2004 so not useful for most RR P38's although for the cost it would have been good. For a RR for everyday use I would say it is important. So far on my P38 I have had 2 suspension failures and a complete lockout on the engine immobilizer in 6 months. So having the full software would be useful and save me money. I too am contemplating getting one so am interested to see what is best for my Disco, P38 and CSK. ALthough the CSK does not need that much. Paul you forgot Bearmach and Lynx as options.