Simon_CSK

Bowie I think now you mention it it was a Sprintex that he had.

Two good ideas will try both when I am next in the car. Thanks guys

Leigh A friend of mine had a supercharger fitted to his Range Rover Classic many years ago. As far as I can remember there was not a bulge in the bonnet I am sure that the bonnet was totally normal,

I have just finished installing an engine in my P38. It started quite well after a few cranks and has been running fine ever since. The one issue that I have however is a strange noise coming from once of the component on the pulley. It is either the Aircon compressor or the power steering pump yet to determine which. The noise was not there before any suggestions appreciated. Otherwise i am very pleased with the results.

I have just replaced the chassis on my Disco and asked the very same question on the International forum a while back about polybushes and brake disks. In the end I used other makes for those particular items but because I was buying quite a lot of stuff and sometimes on EBay where the make was not given I ended up with quite a few blue box stuff. I never had any problems fitting anything from Britpart and after 1500miles I have not so far had any issues. I am currently playing with a P38 and again have been supplied with some blue boxed stuff and again I do not see any problems. Give me anothe 5000miles and maybe I will have some moans.

Thanks David but in my description I did state "The two things the same one with a pipe the other the pipe has broken" and so I thought I was being very specific. Must try harder

They are interchangable. although they are completely different.

So I am right it is vaccum or air? What does it do?

What I have done in the past for both Classics and my P38 is to park it nose up on a hill and then try and get the air lock out. The bubbles are then rising to the radiator. I ave a nice hilly driveway to that is what I use.

I too would keep going. 16 years ago when I first moved into my current home I broke up a few Range Rover Classics. My neighbours complained about the noise of the grinders but when the council came to investigate there was nothing. When I applied for planning permission for my garage they objected stating that I intended to run a garage business. The council were satisfied that it was for my own use and cars were only a hobby. Tell them to get a life. Keep going you are not being unreasonable they are!!!

The two things the same one with a pipe the other the pipe has broken. What are they ans that do they do? I am guessing that they are some form of vacuum fitting as there is no fluid in it.

When I first bought my P38 I was aware that there was a knocking on start up and the engine over heated. My diagnosis was a pourous block and the big ends going. I was not that upset as I knew I had a good V8 with only 17k on it. Stripped the car down over the week and lifted it out this morning. When I got to the torque converter it seemed to be floating on the mounting plate. Never expected to find this. I somehow don't think it would have lasted much longer. When I removed the four mounting bolts the whole thing disintegrated. Could this have contributed to the overheating?

I discovered today that the sumps are different but the timing covers are the same. After hoisting the engine out today I have spent all day cleaning things and swapping things over. Tomorrow I hope to get the Engine back in.

Left it in and refitted the other ones back in. As it happens I do not need to go that far although before I refit tomorrow I will try the torq bit just so everything is clean for the next time. Thanks for every ones help. Appreciated

Excellent thank guys that gives me the solution and the confidence I heed yo remove it.

Dunc You drilled the head off the Hex? Did you damage metal below? I think I can do it carefully but I do not want to damage the crank

It is an Allen key type fixing so it has a hexagonal hole not a bolt head. I like the look of the Irwins though

Don't really want to dig that deep. The block is a good one taken off my 2000 P38, I am putting it into my 1997 P38 which has a different engine management system. So this is welding knocked on the head how about drilling the head off the bolt? I can afford to sacrifice the flywheel if I need to.

Not got loctite on the other 5 bolts so doubt that this one is. I do not have extractors to hand either. If I drill it out will there be enough head left to remove from the crank with mole grips. Can I weld on a bolt without damaging anything?

I have wreaked the head of a hex bolt securing the flywheel on my V8 block. How do I extract the bolt without damaging either the flywheel or the crankshaft? The bolts are torque down so it needs to be well secured or drilled perhaps?

That would make sense. I only have 12 point sockets. Thanks

Does anybody know the socket size for a 4.6 V8 head bolts? I have tried several sockets from 14 to 17 both metric and imperial. Managed to get a socket to fit but just turned on the bolt. Did not damage it too much but would sooner know the proper size.

How do i read it?

I am in the process of changing the engine on my new toy. I have stripped the engine down and it is now ready to lift. After it comes out I need to change the flywheel. Can someone please give me the torque settings for this and for the inlet manifold also need the sequence for the inlet.

The different flywheel does that make removing the torque converter simple. Is it a case of removing the bottom plate and undoing the bolts on the block side?