Simon_CSK

Try these The raw chassis with a few bits added. Front brake and axle added Back axle, brakes and shocks added. Engine, gearbox and front bumper on. Fuel tank and rear installations The full chassis. The brakes and body should be back together sometime today.

I have and I will get them posted later today. I will try and get into the Garage on Monday as well and get some before the Body goes back on. I have had to remove the ACE so I am a little worried about how it will handle.

Not scary just very soft. Had a broken shock as well!! Ultimately was driving it very very carefully. Never mind engine and box now all back in and the body should be going back on on Monday.

The bank Manager knows nothing about this. Fortunately. You have to remember also that I have done extensive repairs just to keep it on the road to get to this point. When you lift the tow bar the chassis flexes horrendously.

Have a P38 in my drive that I am breaking. I drove it for 9 months had overheating problem and replaced the engine block, had suspension problems, put the front diff through the gearbox but the final nail in the coffin was the lights going on by themselves and the associated electrical gremlins. Because money was tight I ran a Mondeo for 9 months before getting a Disco 2. Now my disco to is getting a new chassis fitted because I did not look at it properly when I bought it. I did 17000 miles in the P38 and they were very comfortable and enjoyable. 4.6 auto on LPG and would certainly recommend this as a setup. Once the Disco is on the road I am looking to buy a P38 4.6 auto on LPG as a back up car as it was very nice I do 20,000 miles a year and having two vehicles to share it with seems to be a good option for me as I like Land Rovers and one is always broken

I did some major repairs. I replaced about 4 foot of chassis and saw that is was worse than I thought so opted for the replacement with upgrades It is very punishing particularly on the wallet certainly not worth it on a value basis but everything on the chassis will be virtually new.

The chassis flexes in the middle when you lift it by the towbar. Yes I got one for Richards. There is no point in going half cocked at least the car will last a very long time. Probably outlive me

Time for my update so here are the photos of the chassis that has been removed. Not looking too bad so long as you take a quick look Sorry for the focus but you can just see the shock absorber is snapped. I was driving this until I noticed it was very none descript with the steering. I am looking forward to the new chassis going on. I did not realize that it was so bad the garage said it was the worst they had seen!!! but at the moment the bill is rising slowly as I need more and more bits. Not financially viable but hey who is counting

Overnight I swithered back to Powder coating and now I think that paint is possibly the way forward. Particularly after Zoltans wise words. Vedrover agree in part with what you are saying but the parts for painting are really only to make it look good as I build the chassis back up radius arms tank straps and axles all perform adequately while covered in surface rust.Besides we do not get the same extremes as you get in Russia.

I really want them black and not silver. I am tempted just to paint them. I know they will get scratched.

I have my galvanized chassis for my Disco on the driveway and am starting to put it back together. I was going to get the radius arms and other bits powder coated but a trusted friend said that on old metal it would peel off. It would certainly speed things up but was wondering of others experiences of powder coating old components .

Yes TD5 Don't think I have a coolant leak. I have never needed to to up and the 1/4 litre really only went into the space at the top of the header tank. Have today driven 250 miles and the temperature gauge which normally sits dead centre on a few occasions dropped to 1/4 of the way down indicating that it was running cooler. No other issues. Will be driving 450 miles tomorrow so should be interesting.

I have a couple of issues that may be separate or related. I have noticed that when I am stationary the heating blows cold air but once underway the temperature comes up. The other thing that happened tonight was the temperature gauge started to rise. I noticed it because the power started to drop. It did not go into the red and I turned the engine off immediately and cruised to a halt. Opened the bonnet and put about 1/4 of a litre of water into the system. Drove normally after that. Any ideas?

Have looked and looked and cannot find it. Now had the chassis bead blasted and nothing is visible.

As the title says Bearmach or Polybush which are better? Or are they much of muchness. They are for a Discovery 2 if that make any difference.

In theory it should fit. However I sold a Range Rover towbar to a friend and he could not get it to fit. Something to do with the tie bars although I would have thought they would just need a little modifying. I have just bought a second hand once for my Disco 2 and that looks just the same as a classic range rover towbar so I cannot se where the differences are without a side by side comparison

Snaggers there are many common parts between the Disco and the Range Rover. I have a Disco 2 now and it is incredible what parts are the same. The brakes are the same, Air intake box to name but two. I have now got the steering wheel off with the aid of my Iphone so I could see the screw types. What did we do before smart phones?

Yes no problem pm me

Thanks very much for that I am breaking the Range Rover so the battery is out and reconnecting is someone else's problem. Gentleness is the name of the game I think.

Anyone tell me how to get the covering off a P38 steering wheel so that I can remove it?

David Thanks for that I will try and give it a go tomorrow.

I am breaking my P38 Range Rover and have stripped lots of critical electrics out of the car without opening the tailgate. Without wishing to damage the tailgates what is the best way to open them?

Thanks to all. After a couple of days the central locking, alarm and the interior lights started working normally and everything is now back to normal. Now just need to sort out the chassis.

Unfortunately not had nothing to attach to other than armco on the other side of the road which would have been dangerous. Discretion was the better part of valour. It is my D2 yes. What does the IDM look like? The fuse box could have been in water certainly the engine ECU had no problems.

My Disco has had yet more adventures. On Monday night I was caught in the snow on black ice. As I approached a 90 degree bend I had no response from the steering or the brakes. As I was approaching armco I was happy that I managed to get some traction which started me round the corner but once started would not stop. The end result was I ran over the top of a small tree before ending up on my side in a very boggy ditch. After 3 hours I was home with the help of Recovery who pulled me out of the water filled ditch. The car started easily and has run fine since the seats are wet from water ingress but most things are in order. The recovery driver said I was very lucky as I has stopped on a very big sponge. Apart from the bumper a dent on the door which will push out and a broken indicator I have no real damage. I am left with an electrical issue. The electrical issue I have concerns the central locking and the interior lamps. The central locking will not lock the doors but will open them all. The light stay on all the time. Does anyone have a clue what the problem is I would guess that there is a control box that has been flooded and needs either replaced or dried out but don't have a clue where to start.