CwazyWabbit
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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit
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Finally finished it
Last bit of machining of the new part, two flats on the side and a hole to release the pin that holds the barrel in.
Then the actuator had to be shortened
All the barrel parts fitted together
Removed the old barrel holder from the front plate of the lock
Cleaned the rust off it
and welded the new barrel holder in
While it was still in bits I removed all the dirt and twigs out of the lock mechanism
A bit of paint and riveted it back together....
Had to give it another splash of paint before refitting to the door as I knocked some of the paint off doing the rivet bashing.
Anyway, it's all done and working....
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Cheers for the offer Nick
But looks like I've managed to make mine work. -
good point. Still don't explain the loos in pressure.
If that bearing has been eaten enough to bang then it might also explain the loss of pressure as the 'play' will mean the piston isn't being pushed up so far.....
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Gravel drive and a jack means you are trying to kill JeffR, don't you like him reb78?
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Impressive thread ressurection.....
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Lower part could describe any part of the surface depending on the position the crankshaft was in......
Anyhow that bearing looks very unhealthy to me and I would have been inclined to check the crankshaft surface carefully or it may happen again quickly. I'm not saying it is the cause of your problems, but it could be the cause of the noise if it has eaten that bearing again...... -
I think he is only adding back as much as he already chopped off, one of the previous posts says he chopped 2 inches from the bottom of the rail to get to good metal, I could of course be entirely wrong though.
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I can't see properly in the picture but they look like they welded to the crankshaft and released again, hence them being rotated. What state was the crankshaft surface?
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Might make your life easier to add the encoder/decoder IC http://www.rfsolutions.co.uk/acatalog/DS803ALPHA-1.pdf I haven't read the whole datasheet but it's worth a look. Suggest using it to greate a remote control
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Different manufacturers use different names/conventions and sometimes datasheets leave a little to be desired, that transciever data sheet only labeled the clock and data in as SPI and left data out just described as Serial Data Out (SDO) .... a little more reading of the datasheet makes me think the SPI interface is used for configuration and status monitoring and the actual data you want to send to, and recieve from the other station will need to be sent using bi-directional pin 3 and clocked via pin 4
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She also spelt refrigerator wrong in her first ad. I've noticed over the years that the ebay search engine has been modified to be more tolerant of spelling mistakes and different names for the same things although in this case it was the uncommon name and the mispelling that proved too much for it. Massive price difference though. You got a bargain Jason
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It's not so bad if you are just buying the one handle, but I needed two handles and a rear door lock... which comes to around £150 in total so I'm taking the pikey approach
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I have now got all of the parts that i require to start building the project, I have decided to go with the arduino board as i have not got the experience and knowledge to create a board from scratch, if i can get the project to work i will then attepmt to use the ATmega chip as the basis for a stand alone circuit without the use of the arduino board - however the important thing is to have a working circuit.
currently my biggest issue is trying to get the boards to talk to each other, ive got two of these boards - http://arduino.cc/en...ArduinoBoardUno with two 433MHz rf transcievers - http://www.rfsolutio...ALPHA-TRX-5.pdf, both of these work with an SPI interface
The Arduino website says "SPI: 10 (SS), 11 (MOSI), 12 (MISO), 13 (SCK). These pins support SPI communication using the SPI library" so im assuming that it takes four inputs from the transciever, however from looking at the RF Transciever datasheet it only mentions two ports used for the SPI interface
"Pin 12 SDI DI SPI data input
Pin 13 SCK DI SPI clock input"
How would i go about connecting these together?
Cheers
Tris
You are missing pin 1 SDO and pin 14 nSEL
MOSI means Master Out Slave In and MISO the opposite.
So MOSI pin 11 Goes to SDI pin 12 and
MISO pin 12 goes to SDO pin 1,
SCK pin 13 to SCK Pin 13, and
SS (Slave Select) pin 10 to nSEL pin 14.
I think
Oh and obviously GND and VCC will need connecting
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Well I've started on the rear door lock, kind of wish I hadn't but I'll finish it now. Here's pics of so far, mostly dismantling. Hopefully finish it over the next evening or two.
First knock these four rivets out, these just hold the two halves together when it's not bolted to the door as the door bolts go through both bits.
A few pics of the various parts of the dismantled lock.
A few years of dirt inside here
Looks a bit worse for wear, the slotted part is integral to the lock holder unlike the other door handles.
You can just see the back of the old barrel in the middle of the hole.
The bit that actually opens the lock
The actuator will need 17mm cut from it's length
New barrel holder is almost completed, it's longer than the old one as it will extend inside the lock to support the shortened actuator.
Bigger recess to take the bigger face of the new lock barrel, putting the slots in almost led me to self harm.... keyways using a lathe = not fun
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You've made a lovely job of the whole thing Mr Diesel
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Blimey, the new rear door lock is 78 pounds!
fingers crossed that the old one can be modified -
Finished handle assembled again
New bigger barrel face doesn't look too silly
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Just a few pictures to show how I modded my old passenger door handle to take the larger post 2002 barrel.
This is how the handle looked before I started messing with it..
The new barrel on the left is significantly larger in both length and diameter
I made a new sleeve out of some aluminium on the lathe, 36mm long, 16mm external diameter. Bored 10mm diameter straight through and then counter bored 1/2" diameter to a depth of 31mm.
As the new sleeve needs to poke out the back of the handle we need to machine away the back of the hole in the handle...
Before
After (you can see the two ribs that stop the sleeve from spinning in this pic)
The front of the hole in the handle needs enlarging to 19.5mm to take the larger face of the new barrel and the ribs inside the hole need to be removed to a depth of 11mm at a diameter of 16mm to clear the new barrel.
Now the handle has been prepared we can cut the slots in the sleeve that will sit over the ribs inside the handle barrel hole, may as well do the slots for the barrel wafers while we are it (the longer slots). The new sleeve is designed to be inserted from the back of the handle whereas the old was inserted from the front.
cont.....
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To be honest considering it is a quality gauge and sensor it isn't too bad, if you pay much less then you may as well stick with the stock gauge.
The price is similar to an EGT kit which essentially consists of the same things just for a different temperature range.
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These are still being sold on ebay for 85 quid + 15 postage http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250923390334 although you still need to buy bolts.
How much can you build one for? Just curious, I have in the past spent ages making something to find I could have bought it for the same price
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There are some bracket pictures here http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=41373
Also some close part way down this page http://www.eastcoastrover.com/148.html
Ralph has also attached the Land Rover genuine bulkhead removal bar parts diagram in this thread http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=64920
This one is clearer and also from that thread/microcat
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Are they genuine ones? If aftermarket maybe they aren't quite the right size....
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I certainly wouldn't want to trust a 'welded up' crack in a Diesel block - the pressures and stresses are just too high.
From what the OP wrote the block isn't cracked, there was a crack in the head that caused corosion of the mating surface of the block. The welding was to fill the corrosion so they didn't need to take too much off the block to get it to seal again.
Although tbh if the job wasn't done properly the welding could cause the block to crack.
Despite the costs sounding high you can start to see where they are coming from if it includes all labour and the replacement head as well. With that sort of money in play of which labour would be a big chunk I would be inclined to go for the remanufactured engine to. If I was fitting it myself I'd go with Jason's suggestion and fit a second hand engine as the gamble isn't so bad with 'free' labour.
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Cool. If only I had a smart-phone eh?
Well now you have your first valid reason to get one
fingers crossed that the old one can be modified
Newbie to megasquirt, thankyous and problems!
in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt
Posted
Top man for owning up to the mistake, many would have just claimed it was a faulty plug. You're learning a lot about MS during this install, you'll be able to set one up in your sleep after this