CwazyWabbit
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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit
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There is lubricant in the refrigerant, but they run ok without. They're easily good for 150 psi, I only run mine to 120 psi most of the time.
Whilst the output pressure is good, the flow is very low. Freezer compressors seem on average to better fridge compressors, which makes sense, but it's not much. The 300L tank means that I have the reserve to run high volume tools, as long as the compressors have been running long enough to charge the tank.
I've fitted a filter to the inlet, and watch the temperature as you can overheat them - in their usual life, duty cycle is much lower compared to how I use them, hence the fans.
They can be a pain to start, they don't like being too cold or too hot, but it's worth it for the noise-free filling they give.
The people on spudfiles claim to get 300psi out of freezer compressors
that must be a scary spudgun! -
Thanks for confirming what I had suspected, I shall be in search of a decent coolant temperature gauge then to cure my curiosity
any recommendations? -
EGT changes waay faster than the water temp... And it is what it says, temperature in the exhaust only.
Yep, that I knew but I probably didn't explain myself properly. I wondered what effect an overheating engine would have on EGT's and could this be used as a way to spot it?
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I'm also using MMtracker for android, it cost me £5 for the full version. I like the fact that I'm not relying on network coverage for my maps, I bought a 16GB micro SD card and put all the qct map files on there.
Have ordered a bigger sd card now and am going to go for the MMtracker full version
I have Memory Map on my laptop but fancy something for cycling to and at a fiver it would seem silly not to -
Out of curiosity Mike, if you suffered a coolant loss do you think an EGT gauge would show the temperature change quick enough for you to avoid roasting your engine?
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Fingers crossed we'll at least get some heavy snow this winter.... I want to play
I have towing strap at the ready! -
Nice
Makes me consider getting a bigger SD card for my phone! -
Has anyone tried MM tracker for Android? It's a third party app that uses MemoryMap qct files. I had a quick look at the free version (literally just 2 minutes last night), there is also a paid version with lots more features.
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Bowie69 I bow to your superior knowledge on this subject, would bad setup on megasquirt lead to a misfire on just the one cylinder? or would that more likely be caused by a faulty plug/lead/coil pack? If it is not down to megasquirt then I would try swapping stuff from one set of 4 cylinders to the other and see if the problem moves, some things break down under load even though they appear fine when visually tested.
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slap a heap of greese on the mounting thread and just spin it on by hand until its tight, then just leave it, i don't do any nipping up with spanner etc. if any tighter you'll have a pain in the neck time getting it off again. the left handed thread will keep it on just fine.
I still nip it up, although the running engine tightens it there is still some spinning mass when you stop/stall the engine that could cause the fan to undo. The original poster has a 300 Tdi so unlike the 200Tdi the fan is much closer to the radiator and if it came off it could be messy.... JMHO
The 300 tdi radiator cowl needs to be put on before the fan and also requires the removal of a couple of pipes. It is possible to put a cut in the bottom of the cowl that allows you to fold the cowl in on itself so you cam fit and remove it without removing pipes.....
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That's a neat idea Jon
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Apparently you can fail the mot if the brake pipes are covered in the stuff. I've just had mine, so will leave the overspray on there for now and check they arent caked in it before the mot next year.
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Really? I never knew that.
I had an advisory on one of my front pipes for corrosion, he didn't give me an advisory on the other one as he said it was covered in schutz to he couldn't tell....
Hmmm... now I've said that I can possibly see why you can fail on it ....
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But what if someone saw you driving it home?
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Good point! A trailer and large tarp maybe?
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more than one person must have liked it it made ove £900
It might actually be worth that as a donor for an old Defender 90.
The insa turbos had allegedly 3/4 inch of wear...
200 tdi engine....
You could probably make a few quid selling the thousands of spots off!
Then weigh most of the rest in....
Or.... you could convert it into a Disco by taking the massive spacer out and removing the extra lights
Although I would worry what else he had done to it that you can't see. -
From what I'd read just because farmers use the lanes doesn't mean you can, quite often they will ban all vehicles unless for access. Anyway I'm sure one of the many knowledgeable people will come along and answer this post properly for you soon
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I imagine it's far easier to get them made out of the correct steel in the first place so they can be hardened properly than to 'fix' the ones currently available. Obviously not practical for the man in the street but a sensible route for Ashcrofts, especially as they have to warranty their finished boxes.
As a side effect it also means there will be a source for the man in the street
Assuming Dave decides to start selling the ones he has made that is. -
... well maybe the primer coat....
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Glad you found a cause in the end, would have been frustrating to say the least if you had changed the flex plate without finding the cause only to have to do it all again...and again... and again. Was nice to see all the wisdom coming out to, there seem to be a fair few bits on an auto setup that if you do wrong will cost you a lot of money
Of course now you are going to be tripping over an engine crane all the time, no matter how small they fold up they are still in the way
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the white/orange is the feed for air condition system, you can use this as a live feed for other things if no air con fitted.
I think the radio has been wired up to use it in mine.
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Sorry for the delay in replying - I've had a busy few days and did not notice your posting.
I put a complete new rear door on my vehicle, including a new door lock with central locking. The new, longer, key barrels won't fit into the older style rear door lock.
As far as the front doors are concerned, I have decided to do away with the keys for them, and rely on the central locking, with just the rear door as the 'emergency' way into the vehicle, so I can't help you much there either, I'm afraid.
I do recall that when I took the old handles off, the screws had seized into the brass insert in the plastic handle moulding, so I had to get new handles any way.
Your wiring colours look right. Did you fit a glow plug relay?
Nick.
I do have a glow plug relay it was fitted by a previous owner which was fortunate
I have spent this evening playing with the drivers door handle and have managed to modify the existing handle to take the new longer barrel. I made a new longer 'cradle' that the barrel sits in and had to bore out the outside of the handle a bit as the head of the new barrel is bigger than the old one. I also bored the inside of the handle as the new cradle has to poke through.
Hmmm, I'll take some pictures when I do the passenger side one .... worth a thousand words and all that
Anyway the drivers door lock is working much better with the new barrel, although that wouldn't be hard as it had got to the stage that I was struggling to find something that wouldn't open the old lock
Assuming the passenger door lock goes according to plan (fingers crossed the inserts don't spin) I won't be too heartbroken about buying a new rear door lock.
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Nice install and very comprehensive install guide
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I hope you don't mind.....
Hi all,
well here goes - my first documented 'install' thread - comments welcome, just be kind.
With winter coming and an urban commute of around 5 miles in each direction the truck just does not come anywhere near reaching 'normal' operating temperature. So with an eye on clear windows, better mpg and a comfortable cab I decided to try and install a diesel fired engine pre-heater. I went for a Webasto over an Eberspacher simply because the right one came up at the right time on e-bay.
I managed to get an early 90's Webasto Thermotop DW50 - a 5Kw diesel fired coolant heater, with it's own coolant and fuel pumps integrated into the unit. It also came with a full (and intact) wiring harness, all the exhaust and inlet piping, a silencer and a programmable timer the original installtion/operation manual and a free puddle of old diesel to boot. The vehicle is a '91 reg defender 110 CSW 200tdi.
The first decision to make was where to mount the heater. The ideal location is on the passenger side near the heater matrix making coolant flow & return hoses easily accessible. However on my vehicle the washer bottle is mounted here.
So first job was to get a new under wing bottle for the screenwash:
And then add the two washer pumps scavenged from the original bottle:
The plus side to mounting the pumps here is that the original wiring does not need modifying in any way - however as the pumps are not self priming you have to make sure that the system cannot drain back and that you don't let the tank run dry - although I'm pretty sure my teeth wont need whitening for a month or two screenwash is an aquired taste. The existing hoses needed a judicial application of heat to make them pliable enough to connect to new fittings.
So here we have a new the screenwash system sorted and old bottle removed:
Next job is to mount the heater:
With the heater position sorted I moved onto plumbing the air inlet and exhaust as once the coolant hoses were plumbed this would be near on impossible:
Silencer is mounted to inner wing on 'slightly' modified existing bracket and exhaust runs out under inner wing and drops out just in front of outrigger:
Fresh air comes in roughly in line with engine mount also mounted to inner wing under the engine air intake hose. The biggest challenge here was trying to keep the exhaust away from wiring, the clutch hydraulic hose, the rubber inner wing mud guard bit and the engine air intake hose. I also noticed later that the exhaust run was directly under the fuel inlet and return. Being slightly concerned about the possibility of leaking fuel dripping onto the exhaust I fitted a splash cover to the bracket meaning any lost fuel drains harmlessly away - this was fashioned from an old milk container!
With these hoses now in place I could move onto plumbing the coolant hoses - run in 16mm as per the original LR hoses. Most people seem to splice into the coolant flow at the heater matrix. I decided to ignore the hose from the heater matrix back to the thermostat housing that runs in a metal pipe along the head and did a direct run instead:
I ran the truck for a few days like this to confirm coolant flow was OK - heater is plumbed post heater matrix and pre engine, to heat the engine first and then the heater matrix (The DW50 has a clever trick whereby you splice a relay into the vehicles heater fan and when the coolant reaches a certain temp it switches on the fan to demist/heat the cab - You can plumb the heater in depending on whether you want a hot engine or hot cab first!).
Next job was fuel - hampered only by slow delivery (fuel line was an ebay special from Turkey!) and a faulty check valve. Fuel supply was teed off tank feed just before lift pump and return is teed in spill line from back of FIP - I used a check valve to prevent lift pump sucking fuel back from heater when the engine is engine running and an in line filter for good measure. As the DW50 has a flow and return fuel line it was easy to prime the fuel system by 'suction' on the fuel return line (I can confirm that diesel does indeed taste worse than screenwash):
Webasto fuel line is 2mm ID - terminated with 5mm fuel hose, the rest of the fuel system is run in 8mm.
This just left the wiring to go -
As I mentioned earlier the DW50 came with a fully intact loom with just five terminations to make -
The main +ve/ground for 12v supply, 2 cables to splice into the vehicle heater fan wiring and an additional ground for the fan relay. the only other wiring was a cable to the timer which was already terminated.
Fuse/relay and wire wound resistor for fan where mounted to bulkhead using threaded inserts:
I used one of the mounting bolts as the ground terminal, the positive runs directly back to the battery following the same cable route as the starter cables. The fan connections are yet to be terminated but will just run along the top of the bulkhead with other looms. The timer cable goes through the bulkhead grommet following an existing cable route and once the dash was stripped out appears adjacent to the rear wash wipe switch:
Yes I know the timer is on the wonk - it was late and I was working by headtorch! This will be moved once I have decided what to do with the centre console - probably a mudstuff jobbie in he summer.
The only problem with the electrics was that the lid of the fuse box was too big and fowled the rain gutter on the bulkhead - five minutes with the junior hacksaw and a tube of super-glue solved that one:
Before:
Ta-da:
I have had the heater running today - started up and ran straight away without any issues. Sounds like a bloody harrier trying to take off when it's on full whack! Timer works great and with today's ambient temperature had the coolant up to temp in about 15/20 minutes.
The only thing I would change straight away is where the exhaust runs as I do get some fumes in the cab when stationary.
This was a very straight forward - I did it over a succession of evenings usually no more than an hour and a half at a go depending on domestic duties/unsettled children. If you are prepared to spend out a bit more on the washer bottle solution event that is plug and play!
Over all I'm a very happy bunny
Summary of parts used (not in any particular order and I've probably forgotten something) -
washer bottle mod:
Under wing washer bottle (£26.00)
Washer hose (5m)
non return valves x 2
tee-piece
32mm rubber lined hose clamps x 2 (should only be 30mm but I guessed wrong!)
Webasto Install:
Webasto 2mm fuel hose (5m)
16mm ID coolant hose (2m)
8mm fuel hose (2m)
5mm Fuel hose (1m)
13-15mm jubilee clamps (some)
15-17mm jubilee clamps (some)
small fuel hose clamps (can't remember exact size but small enough to grip down on 5mm fuel hose)
25mm rubber lined hose clamps
8mm non return (check valve)
5/8mm fuel filter
8mm Tee-piece x2
Various electrical bits - crimps/heatshrink.fuse carrier/cable ties
Plus a plentiful supply of hot tea and a dictionary of technical swear words.
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That's what you are after..
delete the tn_ part of the filename in your original image urls and you get the big picture
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OK - so pictures are a good size in the gallery, but when the URL is copied into the thread the size is far too small - any html whizz kids out there that can help point out my school boy error?
Also how do I edit the original post?
Dave.
It looks like you are using the url for a thumbnail rather than the image, I could be wrong though. Do you have a link to the gallery where the images are as I can't find it.....
There is a time limit during which time you can edit a post, after that time limit you have to get a mod to do it.
that must be a scary spudgun!
any recommendations?
Mapping Apps
in Getting out and about
Posted
Yep MM Tracker can
I've been playing with it with the 1:25k OS qct files for Memory Map
It says it doesn't use the encrypted maps, but I don't appear to have any encrypted ones. Download the MM Tracker Free first to test your maps. Assuming of course you were talking about MM tracker and not the iPhone app...