CwazyWabbit

Lindsay Sinclair must've been working real hard last year!

You would think that the shape of the car they took it off of would give it away......

Something doesn't look so good as your profile says you have a 90 CSW which would make the chassis number look to be the wrong one. :-( Although it is possible that it was a truck cab and they stuck the whole CSW body onto it (forgetting to change the VIN plate). Which would be legal apart from forgetting to change the vin plate.

Did you just get a letter? Or was there some kind of follow up? Might help the OP to know what he can expect to happen next

I'll second that, IIRC they will also do the palleting up for you for a bit extra :-)

is there any chance it is a repair?

I must admit I had never thought about the increased variablility of pressure caused by the snorkel and how your approach may actually compensate for this, looks like you have thought quite a lot about this! I'll be very interested to hear the outcome of this mod once you work out how to attach the breather, mostly for my geeky side really :-)

I must confess to knowing absolutely nothing about vapourisers however the thought did cross my mind that the breather is I assume to keep one side of the diaphragm at atmospheric pressure.... if you pipe this into the snorkel (I may have misunderstood what you meant) then when you accelerate there will be a lower pressure than atmospheric due to the suction of the engine, won't this mess up your fueling? My apologies if I am talking out of my ar$e here.

Sounds like you just need to get it nice and warm on the way to the MOT. :-)

My Dad has two of the larger fly presses that he was given when his old workplace moved premises and I can certainly vouch for their weight .... made the 300 tdi engine seem very light by comparison! I know where I'll be heading when it's time to change my joint :-)

Cheers Jim, good to hear from someone that has had success with this. Will be doing the bracket in an hour or two. Thanks

Ok, thanks for the help Barry

Hi Les, So to follow the torque procedure I should loosen all head studs?

I'm doing an engine swap and the donor is from a disco which has no bracket on it. Thanks for the advice, engine will be stone cold and fingers will be crossed!

I need to swap the air box bracket from one engine to another, problem is it's held on by two of the head studs. Any tips as to how to do it without causing head/gasket issues? Thanks in advance

I think he was after ways to stop people nicking the actual tilt itself. I guess you could replace one or two fasteners with bolts to slow the scroates down .....

Looking back up the thread maybe I'm confused, I'm thinking about the gasket between the front and back halves of the timing case, is the OP talking about the gasket between the back of the timing case and block? If so sorry for muddying the water.

There is a seperate 'penny' gasket on the 300tdi timing case as well...... I'm making a mental note to remember to install it when I do my timing belt this weekend, at first I thought it was some rubbish in with the gasket :-S

Cheers for the info, it will prove very handy and not just on the Landy :-)

Did you just have to heat it up and let it cool naturally or was it dunked in oil/water to cool it quickly?

What will you do to stop the bores rusting?

Result! And of course it no doubt was far cheaper to repair them Any idea what the wire is called?

Just an observation from the pictures, the drivers side swivel looks quite pitted and leaking, and the passenger side rear damper top bush looks to be worn and moving about.

Cheers Snagger and Cackshifter! It's quite clear I had missed a couple of things that once pointed out seem quite obvious now. I had completely omitted to think about the effect of the turbo requiring more energy to produce the extra boost, which is basic physics really. Thanks again for explaining the relationship between the different parameters.

I normally just use a stanley knife blade.... carefully (well most of the time!)