Ed Poore

@steve200TDi from the dash but the last time I checked it was pretty close (certainly within 1 MPG), I haven't checked for a while though. Remember I'm running slightly oversized tyres these days because they were the only half decent AT pattern available for a 20" rim. Plus I absolutely hate Pirelli's with a passion, only tyre I've had that's split / bulged badly.

Maybe the oversized tyres help and perhaps the long journeys rather than shorter ones? Haven't checked for a while mind. Think the tyres are 255/55R20s rather than 255/50R20s. Can't be bothered to check but I can if you want.

A friend of mine work(s/ed) at JLR and supposedly they've messed around with the tunes and got it close to 1000hp and 1000ftlb, standard components and cooling could cope in the UK. Just nothing downstream of it. If I recall going down to Rich's it was actually averaging closer to 38mpg and it was the last stretch to his place up and down all over the place that knocked it back to 35.

Left field suggestion but what about something like a 1UZ or 3UZ? I've got one sat waiting for the roundtuits to finish the 6x6 and then install it into the 110. From my previous research on it you're looking at (in factory/standard form) tuned 4.6 power figures. Start fiddling with it and the sky is pretty much your limit, throwing turbos or superchargers on there will easily get you crossing TDV8 or even 4.2 supercharged territory. Fuel economy in conversions doesn't seem to be any worse than the 4.6 but again potential for improvement (there's plenty of people who are claiming it is more economical but I'm having a hard time finding evidence to back it up). @Bowie69 can probably advise more since loves these engines.

Well the first time I've done a "normal" drive in the Range Rover in a while yesterday. Ran down to Devon to collect 4 doors for the Defender. Sitting at let's say comfortable RR cruising speeds with a mixture of decent runs on the cruise control, heavy traffic, fast and slow country lanes it averaged 28mpg according to the on board computer which is pretty accurate I've found. That was from filling up in Crediton to home on the Pembrokeshire border with slightly oversized ATs on the RR. The same journey but sat more consistently at 60mph (had today tyres then) but towing a 20ft trailer with some pallet racking for @reb78 it did 35mpg. So cruising speed and smoothness of driving play a big part.

Was a wee while ago but got this because I had to do some work in London for my sister and a table saw was required. My small one is a 3 or 4 man lift ideally and needs a 32A supply. The big one needs the JCB to move it but doesn't need electricity as it has an 8hp single cylinder Honda diesel powering it. So naturally it was the ideal time to add another tool to the collection. Only good thing to come out of the weekend though!

I just liked the irony that he was eating cold baked beans when he had a kitchen yet next door to him I was sleeping on a king size mattress in the back of the 110 and we had venison tenderloin, veg and rice for dinner off a BBQ. Okay admittedly I couldn't stand up in mine to get dressed but it still keeps its function as a daily driver with 5 seats.

I'm doing a lot of zooming around on short and hilly journeys at the moment (quite often towing) and the 4.4TDV8 seems to be averaging about 23mpg. Bear in mind though that my drive is steeper than the vast majority of the hills in Surrey and Hampshire. 50% of my journeys exit the east bound which involves a hairpin on a hill that the only vehicles I haven't seen spin a wheel (if keeping on their side) are Land Rovers. The other 50% head west and there's a similarly steep hill out of the local village but no hair pin. I've driven Box Hill in Surrey and both main routes from my house are steeper. All I'm saying is the hills here are proper ones so may not be representative of most people's local routes. I towed a tri-axle 20' trailer down to @reb78 last year I think it was and that averaged 35mpg for the journey which considering the hills on the M4 and in Devon was pretty good. That was being a good boy. I've got close to 40 mpg out of both the 3.6 I had and now the 4.4 but boy was it boring. More importantly perhaps is I've really struggled to get it below 20mpg, I mean since the last fill up I've been driving like a hooligan, didn't quite adjust the handbrake properly when I changed the discs so had a slightly rubbing brake shoe and been loaded up quite heavily and its still doing 24mpg. I'd have said that you'd probably not see a massive difference in using the 8hp over the 6hp gearbox, the top two gears are really tall and normally only kick in from what I've seen above 60mph. Real world difference in having the two gears extra probably doesn't matter but for economy / emissions tests it made the difference. So in summary it may not be doing any better at the top end but even on a **** day its still better than than the typical upper limit of what people normally get out of a sensible run in a petrol 4.6. Towing there's not much of a competitor, there is oodles of torque pretty much straight away. I recall hearing from one of the engineers at JLR that ZF officially only rate the 8hp for 700Nm at the input, in reality the 4.4 outputs a little bit more (something like 25Nm more) and the engineers spoke to the ZF engineers and they said it'd be okay as there's a fair bit of margin. The net result was the 4.4TDV8 conveniently outputs exactly the maximum torque supported by the gearbox... Another aside is I've worked with someone who was looking into replacing an engine on a production hydrofoiling boat. I've had a blank as to the original engine but it was already marinised by the manufacturer (may even have been a supercharged petrol) but end of life. He led a team that looked into various engines both marine and non and they bought a couple of crate engines from Ford of the 4.4TDV8 and ran trials after narrowing it down as a possibility. It was the most suitable engine that offered the power to weight they were after. The petrol ones didn't really offer the low down grunt and were more difficult to marinise as well as ending up a physically bigger package overall. Unfortunately everything fell through as Ford turned around at the last minute and went back on their deal as they said they couldn't supply engines quickly enough for the Range Rover let alone supplying someone else.

Reminds me of a trip down to Cornwall. We were parked up in a campsite cooking some venison steaks with all the trimmings on the BBQ. Chap in a very shiny 110 pulls up and asks if he can setup next to us - well it's a public area... Proceeds to pop up the roof on the 110 and see a full kitchen, storage etc., inside, then proceeds to eat a cold tin of baked beans. Obviously couldn't afford anything else after the conversion Then I happened across the "build" on Defender2 https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530-15.html

Not denying that in this instance but they're used extensively in aircraft frames - but they also serve a very useful purpose of being able to run wiring, hydraulics and such through the holes.

Not necessarily speed holes but those flared holes will allow thinner material to be used whilst being stronger than a thicker material, plus having the nice bonus of weight reduction to boot. Most people have a notion that aluminium structures are lighter than the steel ones - only if you're willing to sacrifice rigidity or get creative with bracing and increasing the rigidity / strength in other ways. Those flanged / dimple died holes are one simple and very effective way of doing it.

I'd be questioning why you can't compress them... If I was being a brute then either JCB bucket - back actor for finesse or front loader for brute strength. After all that'll put about 6t downforce onto it . If I was going to be a sensible brute then shove it in the hydraulic press (that only does about 80 tonnes)

Advert states just over 2.5t all in so far (including vehicle).

Well given my neighbour built a 32x14ft timber barn door out of 6x1s I don't think you're going to have a weight issue if it's just a "normal" vehicular door. His was mounted on a steel railway girder but that's simply the construction of the barn. He's a bloody good carpenter though.

The thing that disappoints me most is how much space is wasted in that timber frame.

From memory there's plenty of space around the nuts (after all the bearing has to sit there) for the deep impact sockets. The only thing I'm unsure of is is the depth different for Series and coiler hubs. You do need to clear the stub axle after all.

Okay a few more years head start. Once you've got a big scrap pile the world is your oyster as you can build what you want.

Simple solution shove a Hayabusa or Fireblade engine into the mower to achieve the required rotational wheel speed. 😄

Mid Sussex Timber. They're usually a very good price - even worth driving to them from Pembrokeshire to pick up a load of timber! Well okay I happened to be in Surrey and with a 20' trailer behind the 110 but their price for 12"x2"x4.8m was 1/3rd of what a sawmill was going to charge for ungraded and Mid Sussex's was C24. I'd be surprised if they didn't have scaffold boards in stock.

Mickey it may be worth giving a quick call to Chris or Andrew @ CLH Trailers, I've been down there a lot recently getting their guillotine back up and running and I overhead a conversation with someone asking about phenolic ply and I seem to recall it was a bit cheaper than that - although it's still mighty expensive at the moment. I've got a mate in Surrey who's going back in a few weeks time with an empty lorry so he'll probably chuck the stuff on as a free backhaul if it did work out. Chris was saying that the problem is most of the ply came in from Russia which has stopped for obvious reasons and then the only other places supplying it (well decent quality stuff) are the Scandinavian countries and they've racked up their prices to make the most of it.

Where traction control comes into its own is more likely in loss of traction on steep descents. I've been in situations where engine braking isn't enough as it runs away a little so careful application of the brakes is required. The more modern traction control stuff can control the braking on individual wheels so there are times where it can be beneficial. Not many I grant you but some none the less.

I'd agree with @FridgeFreezer on the diff / modern stuff side of things. Owning both a 4.4TDV8 L322 and a 110 with X-Deflex, front and rear Ashlockers I'd say that on some stuff the 110 has it - chiefly where the KM2s offer better traction. In most other situations the standard L322 is on par with the Defender and far easier to control (both being an automatic and if you select the correct traction control setting it does make things rather effortless). @Anderzander - just go ahead and buy them - you probably won't regret it and if you do then I'm sure you can sell them on for very little loss.

Hmm., I'll let others have a chance first but if you've still got it early August I could call in and collect. Alternatively if someone wants it and wants it shifted further south there's a slim chance we could fit it in the 110 to bring it further south (probably along the west coast).

First hit on Google about riding on pavements https://www.highwaycodeuk.co.uk/rules-about-animals-horse-riders.html#:~:text=You MUST NOT take a,where available (see Crossings).

Put it this way - you'd have the skill once you'd finished... To be fair I think the biggest advantage Stephen has over us is a good scrap pile! I've been slowly accumulating mine and it's surprising once you've got some stock how quickly and easily you can start to knock things together. I built a link box for the back of my little tractor out of scrap, built a quick-remove concealed bike rack for my sisters old house out of scrap I had lying around.