Ed Poore

Did realise after I posted it . Priced them up via bearmach because conveniently one of the girls there gave me a discount code because of a delayed order. Four new springs and airlift from them are about the £300 mark so not too bad. Genuine at least doubles it and don't think they're built by anyone different. Although Flat Dog are cheaper for the AirLift. I did come across that a couple of days ago but never finished reading it. Useful information. Do have a lathe but looks like it's not needed.

Do you have the part number for the normal ones?

Interesting - didn't realise that.

I just use a garden sprayer (quick search reveals they're about £8 from screwfix). Fill up with oil, pressurise, insert nozzle into transfer box, place rock on trigger, play with dogs and suddenly remember to go and check on it, usually just after it starts pouring out. Cheap enough to keep one per kind of oil.

To be honest this is the way I'm leaning towards. I suspect 80% of my loads fall well within the comfortable range for CSW springs, the other 20% well they push things to silly levels so helper air bags feel like a good way to go. There's also a lot to be said for keeping things standard. I'd say I'm one for keeping things standard but... once I start listing mods I realise how non standard mine is. At least they're all Land Rover bits and pieces! I think I'll probably get a set of Td5 springs and run them for a while. See how they cope and then if the need arises I can always add air bags without having "wasted" money.

Thanks for the comments. Ralph - thanks for the recommendation, I'll see if I can find the time during the week to give him a call. Ross - happy to pay for something decent (RR sale has freed up some cash) but equally I'm young(ish) and the L322 seats actually absorb a hell of a lot. Its actually more that whatever's in the boot tends to go flying now unless it's very heavily laden. So don't necessarily want to pay over the odds for the dogs danglies when for a fraction of the price a small compromise can be made. That being said the 110 has been treated to two Ultra spec pegged Ashlockers from Nige, an Ashcroft sleeved HD transfer box and half shafts in the last 12 months so not as if I'm afraid of spending a little bit of money . I had considered air but think I'll stick to springs. I'm not against them having had them in the L322 but for a variety of reasons not for me this time.

Right the Range Rover has gone so time to bring the 110 up to L322 levels of comfort . In my defence I do have L322 seats in it already! General configuration is up front Goodwinch bumper and TDS but synthetic rope. At the back I've gone utility wagon and lost the rear bench seats. Overall the seats are slightly heavier given they're all electric, TVs, heated blah blah blah. Rear cross member is now 6mm steel C section but with no mud in it. Now if I recall correctly I've got ####part yellow HD springs (or at least they were yellow I think) on front and rear and they're just plain too hard now (used to take 10 people shooting regularly in it, now it's just me and the dogs). Rear dampers are Koni 3 way things and to be honest for the money I've found them pretty decent so will probably stick with them and shove a pair on the front. There is no Bodge unit on anymore. It's fairly lightly loaded most of the time but then I guess once a month on average I load it stupid levels (you know the odd 1 tonne press and the like ). So wishlish: I think the HD springs have in effect given me a roughly 1" lift (haven't taken tape measure to it) and I'd like to keep something similarish. The handling is actually fairly decent with the current springs Better ride... Can cope with the odd silly load without completely losing all suspension travel. The current springs are just way too harsh in everyday use. Now I'm not adverse in the slightest to going air bag helpers or one of Si's anti roll bars to handle the loading and rolling aspects. So my current thoughts are CSW springs (Td5 progressive?) and then maybe air bags and X deflex a bit later depending on how things go. To that end does anyone have any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations or part numbers? My cursory glance of the usual online parts places seem to be awash with either Britpart or HD. I haven't given LR a call yet to see what they have.

Same thing Ralph (different units, OK within 0.5 lbft...).

I know that feeling! Finished installing a transfer box lying on my back in an inch of water. By that point I was so wet I was beyond caring, just wanted to get it done and then have a nice long bath.

Since I'm not Nige I hope this is OK but if you take it off road it's worth asking him for one of his Super Pinion Flanges (his name not mine) while you've got it apart. They're designed to cover the front of the seal and prevent dirt getting pushed past it, I admittedly haven't had a huge issue with the standard setup (but Nige built up my lockers with them) but a friend trashed two Ashcroft built diffs for this reason. There maybe some shims required due to LR tolerances but he can fill you in on the details.

@Chris Davies might have some?

It was still an L322 set of seats but they're the ones that fold half way up the back. The Ford era ones do lumbar support by way of an air bag that can be moved. Although I think they originally came from a 7 series before being tweaked by Land Rover. You can't adjust them manually so electrics are needed.

Oh and they come with an integrated arm rest. Which reminds me I need to build a more suitable cubby box, it's a little too big to open the lid fully.

I can get a better photo if you want.

I've possibly got some of the more radical ones in mine. I've got a set out of a BMW era L322. I'm not as tall as you but find it quite comfortable, I've had much taller than me sit in them and all are pleasantly surprised. Can't remember if Mike sat in it properly when he helped with my windscreen. Yes you do sit a bit higher but the seats are so big and comfy there's not a huge amount in it, the people who have driven it at 6ft say its a little high but not noticeably much less visibility than normal because you can send them back quite a way. I think with normal 110 seats in the back the rear passengers (when I have humans and not dogs) would be cramped but I've fitted the rear seats too so they're much deeper and further back so you get more room than normal. Boot is a little smaller as a Co sequence but when I fabbed the seat base I made it so you have most of the width of the floor (minus 2" or so) than is now unobstructed so plenty of space for long items making it more usable. I've chopped a bit off the front and back of the runners (in hindsight not needed) and had to move the mounting holes (drilled out old captive plates and relocated them). I've also removed the front motor and bracket to drop the front low enough to be comfortable (they're designed for a flat not sloped floor). If you're a little bigger than me then a smaller steering wheel wouldn't go amiss, I'm too much of a cheap skate to change it at the moment. In terms of getting the electrics working I got it with the two control panels on the sides and you only need to give it 12V and you're away. Haven't wired up the heaters or TVs yet... When I get a bit of time I'm going to build a flatter seat box and reinstate the front motor but at the moment it's fine. Lifted up to full height you can just about get underneath the seats if you need to, I carry a few spares under the drivers seat and there's just enough room to attach big jump leads under the passenger one as well. There is a thread in Tools and Fabrication about it, although never quite finished the write up.

Not Land Rover (but then neither are Blindo?) but Zu's are 1400kg each, at least I think that's what I remember being stamped on mine and Craddock's appear to confirm it.

I don't think there was an adapter plate linked but the forum discussion mentioned that Rakeway had developed one for the T56 Magnum manual to LT320 for someone. Might be worth giving them a call to see if they still have the plans / designs around.

Do you know why it's so chunky - presume it's got to change splines?

Not cheap but you can get them new in the UK: https://roadcraftuk.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=45_141 http://www.partsworldperformance.com/manual-performance-transmissions Knew I'd seen talk of an adapter - apparently via Rakeway

There's a chap on YouTube (AlexLR) who's put an LS3 (6.2L with about 450hp) into a 90 and I'm pretty sure he's running a T56 Magnum transmission behind it. There are already adapter plates to mate that to an LT230 if I remember correctly. Some rather entertaining videos of it down at Perrenporth drag strip against some serious vehicles and holds its own until aerodynamics takes over. I like the fact he's kept it as a nice sleeper - still got all the dents and so on, just happens to have a 6.2 V8 underneath

@Chris Davies what don't you have in that shed?! Shame I didn't see this because I've just spent the day laning around Brechfa, sure I could have squeezed it in with my 4 extra spare tyres.

What's the reasoning behind losing the 35s? Gearing too tall for them? I find with my set up that the gears are quite well suited for what I do. Although towing through the Scottish Highlands in the height of tourist season it does feel a little gutless down low. Well compared to the 3.6l twin turbo V8 ... But once I get rid of that I think I'm going to experiment a little with the boost and a VNT to help the bottom end. Failing that me thinks it'll be time for a V8, thinking 4.2 or 5.0 supercharged... . Perhaps that's an option? (The turbos) after all it does look right on 35s and having just got a new set of tyres its not far off the same cost if you're sticking with the BFGs!

34s?

I suppose it's all down to aesthetics but a friend had pretty good success with coating the rock sliders I repaired for him (and had galvanised) with bed-liner. Also provided a bit of extra grip, but they were a different design being a Land Cruiser.

There are some spray on galvs you can get. Not sure how good they are compared to hot dip but I'd have thought like all paints it's down to the prep so as long as the surface is clean and degreased properly then that's better than nothing.