Ed Poore

At least you're sorted but Nige would definitely know. At least I hope he does as he built my pegged short nose Ashlocker for the back of my 110. Haven't broken that yet, snapped a crankshaft but don't think that's his fault...

The other thing to bear in mind about LEDs is being a harsher white light they are typically horrendous in fog. Particularly as high up as Defender headlights sit. There's a reason why Land Rover stuck with halogens for the fog lights on the L322.

He didn't but then I wouldn't expect it. I made a genuine (and I thought pleasantly worded) enquiry asking whether a cross member was available and, as at the time I couldn't weld, if he didn't want to mount it (I had read forums) would he recommended somewhere that could (might as well go with a recommendation from the chap who builds them). Fair enough the response took a while, "one man band" type affairs quite often do. But the reply I had wasn't particularly courteous and left me with a sour taste in my mouth. Can we please drop this now. I gather based off mig-welding he might have some more available and I wish him the best with it but I went another way and been more than pleased with the result.

Guessing your tungsten didn't like the CO2 either? If I remember my basic chemistry CO2 is fairly reactive which is precisely what you don't want for TIG.

I'd have said your box section is nowhere near clean enough (you have to get rid of even the mill-scale). Flap discs are your friend with TIG welding. From the little that I've picked up (and by no means consider myself an expert - just one level beyond novice, perhaps) the black spot when you lift off is due to contamination inside the weld pool. Were you adding filler at that point? I'd hazard a guess at yes and I might be tempted to whack up the amps a little bit and see what happens then. Difficult to see with the photo but you can see my first attempts at TIG welding here and hopefully how clean the material is compared to what you have. Note this was a pretty much new sheet of steel (you can see the un-prepped surface up the top).

D3 is full independent suspension so I'd imagine it'd have been quite a bit of work?

Wouldn't harm...

Maybe he should just buy a field, I don't know somewhere near, maybe, Guildford. He can then have a barn and store all his vehicles here for when he breaks them. I'd offer to look after it for him of course

There's two, one which is up for sale. Probably asking way too much for a spares vehicle however it's been kitted out for offroad / camping use (acts as a guide in the UK for predominantly French and Belgium groups coming over). Been well maintained as well, 2.5 BMW 6 cylinder manual with a chipped ECU. [edit]It's a T plate so 99 again[/edit]

Richard on mig-welding has done some decent tutorials on how to setup the machine. I'd recommend getting your hand coordination etc in with steel and then try some stainless before ali. The little bit I've done on ali it's quite an art form getting enough heat in and then backing off before it disappears. Cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness Practice, practice, practice.

I know someone with two in the SE. Not sure if he'd have parted with the transfer boxes, maybe by buying the whole car... I also know someone in the SE buying up the Renault 4s in the UK... Have a very useful friend north of Paris. Mind you he is a little bonkers but is very much into offroading, the 44" tyres he has for his old Land Cruiser on DIY portals are the "small" set. There's a special set for Scottish peat bogs .

I think the entire section was under £30... Besides I've been looking at V8s again

Honestly it's sat around for ages and I can't be bothered to even write the post to get rid of it . Having said that I think it was only the clamp that was wrong (2 hole rather than 3 hole) and my current back one is about to fall apart so maybe I'll just lop off the flange and weld the new one in place. Not even sure what material it is but it's been sat outside in the rain and not rusted up so either a protective coating that hasn't burnt off yet or is stainless... Now you've made me think about it I think I'll dig it out and take another look!

Question is - is he going to finish before you @landroversforever?

Should have said it's new but unused and just been sat under cover but outside since I ordered it in error.

I've got a entire back section off a 110 here (not stainless) but you're welcome to it if we can organise a relay. Ironically drove past you today but didn't have it. Not sure when I'll next be passing your neck of the woods.

How does water in oil affect the operation of PRVs? Given the small volume I'd be inclined to change it as if it's got water in either by leakage or condensation it'll affect it's operation.

My original one died and needed a replacement fast so cue Amazon Prime and sourced a Tacklife PAH03D for £60 and I've been genuinely very very impressed with it. Use it for both TIG and MIG and grinding. Came with a bunch of spare parts, case and has replaceable batteries which I wouldn't normally expect on something this price. I've never experienced an expensive helmet but a friend who has and compared this very favourably, particularly even before you considered the price point.

He may have been tired of it all (and I understood he was fed up of the Land Rover scene) but I asked a few genuine questions about whether he still made them / lead times / pricing / availability and had a rather curt and inappropriate response for those questions. Hence why I resorted to building a custom one of a similar design.

Build one, it'll be faster... Fair enough if you've got all the bits, I know my bracket and Denso compressor fit very nicely onto a 300Tdi Defender!

I can probably dig out part numbers if you want? But I'm using mine for on-board air so don't have any aircon part numbers if that's what you are doing.

I think you're getting confused about different compressor brackets. When I researched mine there is only one bracket for a 300Tdi. It's designed for the Denso 10PA compressor which was standard fitment. The 200Tdi has a selection of different compressors if I remember correctly. 300 and 200s should be the same between Disco/RR/Defender. The studs locate the compressor in the right place. There's then a tensioner that replaces the timing belt cover to take any slack out. The bracket linked to in the eBay link is correct for the 300Tdi. If it doesn't match you're compressor then you've got the wrong compressor.

New dining room table from the folks, magimix from my nan and replacement slow cooker from my sister. Guess they'll go well with the beastie currently hanging in the garage below me in the Highlands.

Correct. Although I've found the helicoils strip out relatively easily. Tried whacking a tack with the TIG which seems to be holding despite being cast ali to steel threaded bar (my bracket is missing the original studding).

@zardos yes that is the right bracket. There are helicoils into the base where those threaded bars are mounted. The air con pump mounts onto those and the holes are for the bolts to the block.