Ed Poore

Looks like the rest of your door trim had popped off too

Friend's run Coopers and rate them. I've only ever run BFGs on the Defender and they've been superb. Even the M/Ts have lasted well, think my current set are over 50k since going on. They are getting on though both in age and slashed sidewalls. They are more expensive though for initial purchase although given the mileage normally work out cheaper.

Hope life's on the up now. You forgot to mention all your DIY. I can't believe there isn't another story from those few weeks...

If your employers are the ones asking you to do it I'd still be inclined to see what their thoughts are on sending you on a training course / getting coded? You mention rope guards, are those for stopping people falling over the edge? In todays blame society if one fails (or even a roller fails and then knocks something or someone) do you want the possibility for it to fall back to you? At least if they've given you some formal training there's some protection there. I hate this blame mentality but unfortunately it's the world we live in now. Perfect example, I keep getting phoned up now asking if I want to claim compensation for when I motorbike rode into the back of my 110 in France. He literally knocked some mud off the back of the cross member (OK it is a bit Barkeresque) and didn't even damage the paint. I heard a bang but thought it was a stone being flung out of the tyres. They just don't seem to understand it when I don't want to claim for whiplash... Anyway rant over

Almost true, at least on my cheapo Clarke 130 you have to swap the polarity internally, easy enough to do because they've got thumb screw knobby things. Can never remember which way around they go but there is a helpful diagram inside I think. There is a world of difference I've found though between flux cored and gas shielded welding. Given the option gas any day, although in this scenario I can see why carrying a bottle around with you is undesirable...

Didn't mention R Tech as supposedly it's semi pro but then again there's a chap on mig welding who's put over a tonne of wire through his with no problems at all, in a very short period I think, perhaps even before the warranty ran out. I've got one of their plasma's and a TIG and they're good machines but not that experienced personally.

What the the crane's for then?

If you're wanting light then inverter type will be the way to go. Quite a lot of those I suspect will have MMA functionality to so you're not limited to just MIG. If the budget is no problem then I'd start looking at the big names such as ESAB, Miller, Lincoln and Oxford (assuming you can get them in the UK). I think Brad over on mig-welding.co.uk is one of ESABs reps.

I found them better but may be down to the profile? I found the GGs in the same size started cracking after about 10k which was carp. Ran through £3k of tyres in 3 years on the FF with some laning thrown in. The Duratrac Wranglers have at least 30k on them. Possibly a little noisier as they wear (but then I never really had the opportunity to see when the GGs wore out because the rubber perished or I burst the sidewalls well before the tread ran down) but found them better in every way otherwise.

I don't think Nitro are a bad tyre considering most US based Ultra4 competitors seem to run them now... I've run General Grabber ATs on the FF but to be honest I prefer the Goodyear DuraTracs. They've performed better off road and lasted a hell of a lot longer than the GGs.

A Plan Thatcham. Used them for the last few years with no issues.

Anything's possible if you look at Project Binky. Just trying to save on the amount of work that needs doing if possible, hence recommendations. Guess I could look at original parts.

Ok so there is a genuine reason for this, I'm not just a tart. I got back from 4 days bumbling around Cornwall, with a chance passing with @western on the way home over Bodmin moor. Spectacular weather and views (reminds me a lot of home in Pembrokeshire) but boy it was a pain trying to find beaches to let the dogs cool off. And there in lies the problem... Tangentially! As some may remember I've fitted a set of L322 seats to the 110. I used to be able to reach behind me and open the rear window for the dogs on the move. Since fitting the seats I can, just, if stationary. So I tend to have to make the decision do I open them for the journey or not which is annoying when you hit motorway speeds and the windows are open and can't shut them. So I'm looking at going electric. Easy enough to find lots of kits for the fronts but does anyone have recommendations for the second row doors? Not scared by electrics so only really needs to be the mechanical side of things. Even then modifications aren't an issue but just after any suggestions before spending my hard earned. Not sure whether the fronts would fit given the different shape of the door and I can't remember whether the guts are different or not.

I've got two at the moment, one on the 110 and one sat in the shed awaiting new seals (which involves me making a jig to press the drop arm off). The one on the 110 has a bit of play but is functioning although as to what level I'm not sure. Power steering is heavier than I remember at low speeds so suspect pump and possibly box. If its of any interest it could be made available sooner rather than later but it'll be at least a week and a half before I get time to have a look at swapping them over. Equally I think @Chris Davies had another one in his shed barn when I picked up mine, don't know whether its available or he had it reserved for something. I'm heading back from his / our neck of the woods tomorrow afternoon so if available I could bring it east bound with me.

Is yours a 4 bolt?

James, on the subject of props didn't you want one of mine? Off a 300Tdi 110 with Salisbury. Got the axle too

Tell him its normal behaviour.

Is it a violent juddering or more of a pulsating? I have heard of a woodruff key inside the pump wearing down, how true that is I don't know. My suspicion would be pump, just but feel at the moment mind. If you're keeping the steering torque constant I can't see how it would be relay box but haven't looked at those in any great depth. I might have a spare that doesn't exhibit those symtoms at least. My power steering feels weak and I've got a box with less play and a new to me pump. I need to get around to replacing the seals on the box and then I'll be swapping them over. If you wanted to borrow the "new" pump to see if that cures the problem you're welcome too, I'm unlikely to get around to sorting that for a few weeks yet.

Digging through PMs I still have your contact details so when I'm back home (farm sitting at the moment) next week I'll get in touch.

I'm slightly confused can you replicate it while stationary? If it's while moving I'll repeat the mantra that someone on here instilled in me, panhard rod bushes. I'd recently replaced mine and got steering judder back and turned out they'd shot themselves within a few months. Stuck with genuine after that, but was in a tight spot and needed it fast.

Pretty sure (unless I've got it wrong) I've popped around before so you could have a look at the height of my 110 as you thought yours was riding low. White, would have been station wagon at the time.

Smego, any chance I could nick the old belt off you, if you're fussed you can have it back afterwards? I'm changing over the rear seats in mine to a set from an L322 but the original rear belts are just a little bit too short. I think the front ones are a bit longer so might be a suitable replacement. If you're getting one off the vehicle will help me test the length without having to remove mine. Only up the road in Tongham.

Did you change because you felt like it or because the original setup was ineffective?

Fit a bigger battery

Once faded fits in with the orange tinge from the rust on the vehicle.