Range Rover Blues

Auto TDi is a decent truck, just as quick as a manual (ask me how I know) and about as economical. We have a 300 TDi manual and my sister's is Auto, she gets better MPG and it's a lovely truck to drive. You can alter the shift points to taste on the TDi too which is nice. Anyhoo, I find that the steel used in the '80s is better than the '93 model, the chassis will probbaly be better (assuming a similar background) and the body will be much better, with possibly an ali boot floor? On an exposed hinge body the inner wings. sill and door posts are I think all black, concealed hinge onwards they ar eboddy coloured. This can help detect any bodywork. Buy on condition, not age. Later cars have more toys and spares are a bit easier to find, but a solid 8'80s truck is stilla nice thing. Oh yes, the '93 car wil have anti roll bars, so might handle better.

That doesn't sound like mine. I have a cast iron fork that sits on a nylon socket for the ball inside the bellhousing. The slave operates a pushrod with a hardenedd ball end and the relase bearing is located by a nose peice on the input shaft and pushed by 2 fingers on the cast iron fork. the bearing is held against the fork by a plastic "staple".

Best way TBH, that's what I ended up doing. The Halfruads book was a bit of a red herring TBH and IIRC I had to compramise, the length I wanted was in between 2 (could have been the oddball alternator). Best of luck.

Nope but I remember the part numbers being misleading. Depending what alternator you have they are different and as i had an 80 amp unit they didn't fit. Also it kept eating new Vee belts until I fitted a 13mm wide belt in place of the 10mm. I havn't done much to Blue in 3 years, I'm all TDis now and the LSE is an interim engine with serpetine belt, so I'm badly out of practice.

Sadly ****part do make some stuff from materials othet than cheese, but as said you can't trust or expect what you get. I try to avoid anything that spins. Their window lift channels however, spot on. Not sure if they are still being made however.

My Cavalier 1.7D used to take a while to get warm, the make it worse when I got to Hull and sat in traffic, it would go cold again because the heater was that good.

And ladies, obviously, about a turbo concern. We have a 300 TDi, manual. About 130,000miles, it was "tweaked" by a previous owner, slightly higher boost and 90 degrees on the pump spindle, later it was turned down again. I fitted a full-wifth intercooler, I didn't mess with the fuel pump at the time, or the turbo. I fitted a Gates valve at the same peak pressure, about 1.1 bar and noticed slightly better mid-range. the car went off the road for 18 months (weld-a-thon) and when it was fixed my mate took it to MOT. He observed "the boost is set a bit high mate" when he first drove it, it was running up to 1.4 bar form what he said. I left well alone, it seemd ok once it was running and I don't thrash it too much, but when we went away with the caravan we had to take the TDi for a change and dragging nearly 1,900kg up some long drags I noticed the boost gauge creeping above 1.1 bar at higher revs. Now normaly of course it would speed up at this point and change gear, so I wasn't imeadiately aware of a problem. I kept an eye on the gauge and an ear on the turbo whilst we were away just to be sure. About a week after getting home I started to hear a loud turbo whistle, the pipe to the waste gate had blown open. On inspection it appears that the inner pipe had long failed and collapsed under pressure, eventually the outer had let go too. So I bought some silicone hose (all that I could get on a Sunday) and re-plumbed the whole lot. Originally the gates valve was about a foot form the turbo elbow and the boost gauge was connected there too, the fuel pump pipe coming form the the other outlet on the turbo elbow. Now I did change a few things, mostly to be safe if the new pipe failed. the gates valve is now turned right down, the fuel pump connects to eh same pipe and the boost gauge is now connected directly the the turbo elbow where the fuel pump had been. My idea is that if the pipe failed and the waste gate didn't open, I would see the boost gauge go up, if it didn't then at least the pump wouldn't increase fuelling and protect the engine. Anyway. With the gates valve open all the time (inoperative then) I now get the boost goes up to 1.1 bar quite quickly and the turbo just starts to whistle. if I keep the pedal down on a hill the boost starts to creep up to 1.3/1.4 as the revs increase to around say 3-3/500 rpm. Is this right? I've checked stuff visually, the waste gate seems ok, the pipes are all still intact, the intercooler is clear (I think) and the flexis are all silicone since the intercooler. it goes ok, for what it is, smokes a bit and dragged the Sankey up the A38 very well with what was in it. Should I worry, what should I check. My head's a bit of a shed at the moment, so any thoughts would be welcome as I can't figure it out.

Moose, I like you A frame set-up. Did you deliberatley move the centre of the joint up from the diff (that's how it looks) and did you notice any effects?

Mine is probably as rusty as yours, and the last time I quoted form my lecturer's textbook I got shot down in flames. The trouble with getting theoretical is the phrase "ideal gas".

Viscous fans are designe dot reach their max speed at around 2,000rpm on the crank unless they are getting hot. Often you will hear the fan running at start up until the fluid is thrown into the correct chamber, it settles overnight. IF a viscous fan draws 5 BHP, then that means you need 3.7Kw of electrical power, assuming 100% motor efficiency, to deliver the same fan power by electrics. That's 310 amps at 12 volts.

I can help you out a bit, if the switches are the same as on the RRC. they have 2 power supplies to the switch and one earth, each supply then has it's own fuse. If you look at the back of the switch you can work out the piars of contacts for each function and wire them to a motor. One the multiplug there is one wire not connected each side, or should I say one pin not fitted to the plug. I worked it out in 10 minutes.

The Haynes manual has most of the info you need to check the EFi system with a multi meter, it's in the suppliment.

There are a number of niggles on the lectricery side. I made up a diagnostic ECU with LED panel to show me what was going on. I don't belive the P38 is much different but you need a wiring diagram. It might help if you connect a couple of tell-tale lights to the output to the pump/vac valve on the pump unit. That way you can tell if the system is trying to control the road speed or not. If it isn't you need to look at all the inputs in turn, for example the brake and off switch are IIRC normally closed in series, so any one would cause the fault. You need a road speed signal, gear signal, switch in and out amongst others. Mine plays up because of the inhibit switch I think.

Is there no way of hardenning the new ones then? are they case hardened for example.

It's to speed up the warm-up of the engine, reducing wear and fuel consumption. It's possible that it pre-heats the engine too, so it's hot starts all year round. This all has the massive benifit of the car being warm when you get in and the heater working.

He's right, the inhibit switch has no effect on the operation of the gearbox. Check the adjustement of the selector, if it's not correct it can damage the 'box. Drop the oil and have a look at it, if it's not clean and red you need to know why. If the box is full of crud then a new dose of oil could make things worse, it is a detergeant oil and will lift any dirt and carry it into the governor,I can only suggest several changes of oil in quick succession and a new filter in the bottom of the 'box.

I can't see what year it is, but here's a few tips. If it's got lambdas then it will only listen to the MAF sensor for a few seconds 'till it sets a base idle against the lambdas, it takes a few seconds IIRC. After that it runs closed loop virtualy all the time. If it does have lambdas, it should start with the MADF disconnected, mine does though ti runs rough. The MAF had packed up and I didn't know 'till I'd been towed home when it wouldn't start, had I unplugged it I'd have got home. On an open loop system it might not start at all without the MAF and will run rough as the proverbial if it does. But, if you think it ran better before it "learned" the faulty sensor then unplug the ECU or disconnect the battery, it will reset the ECU.

Ours had this too, I reckoned it was massive high mileage, I think ours had been a cop-car in a former life. It's metal fatigue in a high stress area. Cut through the crack with a hacksaw and MIG the gap back up.

Agreed, we all know they make pre-heaters, that just looks like quite an old one. Is it connected to the fuel system or does it have big wires?

And somewhere early one morning, a tractor mysteriously fails to start..............

Is that why the front sidelights are red then, for "going the other way" Is it possible they had bigger engines for special order?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_braking Take note of the sections on Jake Brakes and Exhaust Restriction Brakes on Deisel engines. Also note the comment that a turbo, when below operating threshold will cause some pumping loss like in a petrol engine.

25mpg isn't that bad. How much do you reasonably expect?

OIl temps can reach as high as 130 degrees though, so I wouldn't worry too much until the engine overheats. All V8 RRC had an oil cooler once the 3.9 was introduced.

I think they are both non-vented disks and AFAIK most LR use the same hub casting even if the bearings sit further apart on the stub like some I had a few years ago from an Ibex. The vented disks I would guess have the inner face in the same place and the outer further inside the wheel, becasue they are made by spacing a non-vented calliper.