Range Rover Blues

They'll nick owt if it's easier than working for a living!

The other reason I remember it being odd, we tried to figure out where the part had come form one a mate's 300 TDi, he had an overheating problem that the car was usually ok but if it started to overheat it just boiled over. Well new rad, pump and eventually head later (after another overheat) he was stood in front of it and observed that the car was blowing hot air out through the rad. Turns out the blades were wrong and we figured it had the blades from a serpentine V8 like my LSE and the visc hub from the TDi. D'Oh! should have spotted that one. Glad it got sorted, I doubt you'll forget in a hurry which was it goes now

Spray-mount.

I bought 3 sets when they first came out and I thinnk they have all had to be replaced again. they yellow with age and I have cracked them, they were supposed to be unbreakable polycarbonate. Not a big fan TBH, but I'm sure others will say diffferent.

Gravel is a good idea, it makes it noisey and insafe to jack up, let's be honest they can't even walk over gravel quietly. If it's parked against a wall they can't nick the whole set and 1 pair is worth a lot less than a full set. You can also stamp your reg number into the rims and painting your rims to match your truck makes them less desireable too. If you leave it on stands then take steps to protect the brakes, I'd push the callipers right back in and tie a bucket over the disk, I find tarpaulins are as much trouble as they save so I let the disks rust evenly. If you fit a set of storage wheels you can buy plastic disk sheilds for very little money that protect the brakes form the elements.

It's not really there for stress, the Defender didn't have it AFAIK, it's for NVH, it decouples the exhaust pipe from the engine so that it doesn't vibrate in harmony and therefore makes less noise.

I had 2 RRC nicked a few years back, in one go. I'm pretty sure that someone's challenge truck was soon powered by my JE sourced 4.6 engine! there was no evidence they ever passed the CCTV protecting the industrial park they were in. The 1st one I had nicked I'm sure was weighed in the next day It's the same problem as with motorbikes, there are a hard core of people who don't care where their spares come form or who pays for them as long as they can keep having their fun! I'm sorry if this offends the majority of innocent participators in motorsport but as said, if no-one bought nicked cars/bikes/household electrical items, no-one would nick them, right?

Oh Lordy, they let these people out! Not sure that fittin gthose is legal, especially the "quick release" bit if that stays on the wheel. Never mind

If it really bugs you, strip the alternator, clean out the brushbox and fit new brushes for the field coils. Chances are they have workn and are sat in their own dust making them stiff, so the resistance of the field coil is effectively higher.

Job's a good 'un

I'd like to know how you get on (though I think it would have been too late for mine) and do you have details of the stuff you bought. Then I need to see if it's available in Europe.

I never thought to ask whilst they had mine apart, but I do know it's trial and error because the 'box works on pressure settings. I'll just keep telling myself it would knock the bottom end out of my engine.

Take the starter out and have a look inside (mobile phone camera or suchlike).

Agreed, you can tinker with the settings but if there's no kickdown cable fitted it will not last long. Anyone else think that swapping a kickdown cable is a pig of a job

What year, it sounds like a mess. We had a dim-dip unit go bad on ours and the headlights came on, but none of this sort of thing.

NOOOO, I may have to nip outside and check this, but I think it's RH thread. I remember because I had to buy a new spanner for mine, it's a different size and that's why I remember it.You can check by thinking about which way the fan spins, obvioulsy it has to tighten itself up. If the fan pulley runs off the back of the belt (the flat side) then it's RH thread, if it runs off the multi Vee side then it's LH thread.

I've been looking at a couple of theirs and they look very shiny, quite chuny too. What grade of stainless are they using? How do their prices compare to others, like Rimmers or Double S? I've fitted a few Double S ones, they don't come terribly shined up, you have to do that yourself, but they are good thick metal and a very good fit. I've a couple of Rimmer's ones too, which I though a bit thinner though perfectly adequate, they do still go scaly underneath though but not totaly flakey with rust. My V8 headers cracked on the LSE.

Sory, just noticed it's a '93. The rubber doughnut only came in with the soft dash. Oil seal a failry straightforward job on yours.

On some types the positive is a bigger screw, The positve should also be a slightly higher resistance to the centre terminal too.

IIRC the special tool is used to pull the spigot pin out of the centre of the 3 legged drive flange. the spigot is there to support the propshaft via an isolator bush in the end of the prop. It can be a pain to shift but sometimes a bolt and some washers will pull it out, sometimes a slide hammer.Other than that there might be a tool for inserting the new oil seal to the right deapth.

The pre-88 speedo form the RRC is a bit naff, it ranges over about 180 degrees and has light up needles, but it's naff. Not sure if any Disco had a cable speedo though. If you buy a second hand transducer you can wire it up from an ignition supply. Otherwise you could get an aftermarket speedo or even one form something like a Spitfire/MG that used Smiths clocks

The old one-size fits nothing component then. A couple of year sback I decided to fit foh lights to the wife's Fiesta as it had all the wiring and the mounting points moulded into the bumper. Only when I Pulled the dash out to fit the switch did I discover that the engine bay loom was form the high series with all the toys, but the dash loom wasn't, so al though the fuses and relays are fitted under the bonnet there is no wiring to the dash and the only way to fit it is canibalise another loom and rebuild the multiplug. It's anoying for owners but for manufacturers it makes sense, less parts to stock, control, design etc and farl less parts to carry as service items, gie=ven that they have to keep them for 7 years IIRC and most try to keep parts for 10.

The torque converter has a number of parts that can fail with use. It has 3 elements inside, the outer is the impeller or pump, the inner which drives the gearbox and the stator ring, a static set fo vanes that redirent the fluid as it circulates, these make the TC more efficient than a simple fluid coupling. he staor is located on a one-way sprag clutch, these can fail. Also the TC has a lock up clutch, these apparfnelty are a common failure with big engines. Also, if there is crud in the gearboc from a failure the depoists get into the TC and can't be cleaned out, rendering it usefless. A TC from a knackered box can then ruin a good gearbox. Anyway, the problem with changing oil is that often new oil is more detergeant than the old oil and starts to lift deposited detritus, moving it into the governor where it can do damage. What you want is to be able to flush the gearbox out and remove said detritus, you can do this completedly and in the worst case you flush the bits inside the TC where they don't come out again.

It won't be good for the 'box or the engine. My LSE is a 5.0l and has plenty of torque but i still wouldn't want it locking up as low as 60KPH, 75 perhaps as many roads round here are a 50mph limit (80Kph) and it's not quite fast enough for the TC to lock up. AFAIK it's a serious rebuild of the gearbox to acheiev this, you would need all the gearshift points moving down to acomodate it for a start.

Awful sense of Deja-Vue, had a pair nicked a few years ago in Sheffield with similar bits, ie JE 4.6, New short 3.9, brand new LPG etc etc. Pretty sure now they were cut up withing sight of the unit and sold in bits! good luck with the hunt