Range Rover Blues

Hi, I bought some stainless hose clamps that are screwless, they look like factory fuel pipe clamps and you put them on by squeezing them with pliers then s;liding them on. They work ok because they overlap well and don't pinch. The intercooler hoses are silicone I got with the intercooler, I used new worm drive clamps and never really thought about them leaking ('till now). the Gates valve is inoperative now, as in it's set to about 2psi. Almost all the time I get 1.1 bar now, it speeds up too quckly unless there is a lot of weight holding it back. I'm pretty sure the turbo has been tweaked and if I get chance I'll undo it, I just wondered if it's possible for the boost to exceed the waste gate set pressure.

For that price I'd expect them to be perfect. I paid less than half that for mine.

Can't remember the figures, but they were quoted to me by the applications engineer at kenlowe, so I'd guess he knows what he's talking about. As for how much power a Visocus fan draws, I don't know. I used 5 hp because that's what another poster had suggested. I can't find anywhere on the 'net that gives a reliebale figure for the power consumption of a viscous fan, but if you read herehttp://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=322035 someone mentions 22BHP on a big V8 pickup. I doubt the 8% of total engine power claimed in some adverts too. This http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efanmyth.htm was quite amusing, if long-winded. I can tell you I rmeoved the fan on our TDi and took quite accurate measurments of fuel consuption. it made no difference whatsoever. On our off-roader and TDi I use electric fans, fo all the normal reasons I guess. On the LSE where cooling is the most important, I use a new visous fan. It works, I don't have to worry about it, it does the job. P.S. somewher eint he back of my mind I'm thinking there was a 5 somewhere in the numbers, perhaps 5 or 5,500CFM?but almost twice what the H/D 12 inch fans Kenlowe could offer can shift. Why do you think LR fitted viscous fans? there's probably little in it in terms of cost

Not completely true, the fuel pump should "purge" as soon as the ignition is switched on to build up pressure. But re-reading the thread it does sound a bit more basic, so I'd be looking at the ignition switch to see if there is power.

Isn't one of the mounts on the T box? so surley that one will always be in the same place. Must admit taking a ZF out of a TDi is about the only one I havn't had to do though, so not got further than noticing the TDi has a differen crossmember to the 2 V8 types I'm more familiar with.

Hit the alarm unit with the hammer, that will stop the lights flashing.

I don't know what the point of the rubber doughnut is, but ulike the rotoflex joint the one LR used needed to be supported centrally, hence the spigot that presumably has driven you to invent new swearwords. I suspect it is the speed at which it rotates that neccesitates the spigot. The rotaflex coupling would need to be compressed before it could be fitted however, so still a pain. They are found under the back end of Triumph TR4A onwards IIRC, out of interest.

Agreed, given that it's been stood the propshafts would be my first suspect. You don't say whether it's TDi or V8 but a misfire can give a similar vibration to a propshaft sometimes. If all else fails drop one propshaft off, go for a spind and if it hasn't gone refit it and drop the other prop.

My ZF went after a recorded 65,000miles. The black deposit is normal, it's the remains of the worn clutches, sounds like it;s had regular oil but not a filter. You can never empty the torque converter, even with it in your hands you only get a litre or so out, hence you can't replace the oil completely which is a pain. I vaguely remember a Capri I had was supposed to have one, but as it used more fuel than a V8 RRC I sold it before getting too serious with the servicing.

Load will make no difference to the valve clearence unless they start to bounce, so sounds like you are ok. We had ours skimmed and it's bene fine, but the LR manual says the head cannot be skimmed at all.

Depends on what year the EFi came from but the loom is almost stand alone and quite simple, compared to some I've worked on. One thing to check though, my RRC has an imobiliser in the loom, for the auto. If it were a manual then there is a lead which bypasses this IIRC, it plugs in on top of the bellhousing. If you havn't got fuel, then again depending on year, have you got the inertia switch in the fuel pump circuit and the fuel pump fuse connected? If the injectors aren't working then check the relay, it should be in the loom near the ECU. If it won't turn then it's not the EFi wiring, it's more likley the ignition switch, or immobiliser (or auto box imobiliser)

That speedo is electronic. The LT230 and Borg Warner both had the fitting for a cable and a cable is what was fitted, righ up to 1994. The electronic transducer was a reed switch operated by a magnet, spun by a cable, the transducer was housed in a small box bolted to the gearbox mount, driven by a cable from the T-box. Interestingly (perhaps) the transduser is double ended, for about 10 months when the 14CUx was introduced into the 3.5 with exposed hinges the dash had a mechanical speedo driven by a cable, the cable was driven through the ECu transducer. Later on Police spec cars could have a second speedo driven by this cable. Anyhoo, all RRC from about '88 onwards, the concealed hinge, USA spec cars with 14CUx engine management had electronic speedos. The transducer drives via a buffer, which IIRC is dark red and looks lke a relay. It converts the pulses into a voltage that the cruise, air suspension and speedo all use. Only on the soft dash was the cable driven transducer replaced with an on-gearbox unit. The 2 can be interchanged if you replace the securing bolt. I was told that the plastic speedo gear in the T box is different, but that was not my experience when I subsituted and older T-box after damaging mine. So whilst I'm not quite sure what you are planning, the answer is probably yes, you can do it somehow.

Looks about right to me, though I'm not that familiar with very early cars.

I thought that refusing to renew was a breach of contract, though of course they can simply price you into cancelling.

'79 Escort RS2000, in white with a black roof. '95 RRC LSE '57 Mercedes 300SL '62 Ferrari 250 GTO, though I'd settle for a 250GTL or 250LMB '68 Plymouth GTO roadrunner 440 '69 or '70 Boss Mustand 429 fastback '38 Jaguar SS100 or '29 Bentley '70 Dodge Challenger 426 hemi '77 Aston Martin V8 Vantage, '63 DB5 or '57 Jaguar XK-SS And blue, for when it snows. Any more than 10 is just greedy! though somewhere I'd have to shoehorn in the Escort I learned to drive in.

You might have to take the governow out to get it clean, i understand it can be done with the gearbox in place (T box off) but i havn't done it myself.

Not really, if it's a safety item there would have to be controls in place and sampling and stuff. they can't gaurantee the performance of a part that has been repaired in the field.

Just pull 10 miles of motorway off the roll, it all looks the same pretty much.

Konis are shwoing up for £50 each on the bay, some are EAS units though but they still work, they have less compression damping for one. I recal Bilsteins will rebuild their shocks, a member of another forum asked and they offered to rebuild them longer! Wouldn't know where to start on Koni but after watching "how it's made" I wouldn't want to dismantle a gas pressurised damper, the gas is introduced by a machine that spin welds a ball bearing int othe hole in one operation.

That's a lot of work for £7grand, very nice kit from the looks though. I just wish I had a job that allowed me that kind of spare cash. As for portals, do you think they might go a bit beyond the strength of the standard LR casing?

A hollow sound from the inlet when you give it some throttle? retarded timing. Check the static timing and check the vacuum advange unit. Then, does it have Lambdas or not?

Noy sure what happens if you have too much oil, other than blowing some seals. I've heard of autoboxs only having reverse, but not having it is not common. Could be it's a sticky valve too, so new oil might improve things slowly. Just guesses though.

And can be interesting if you have no castor (following a lift, say).

All RRC had colapsable steering columns. Not sure if that means the end of them slides in and out though, not sure if mine does. I have a spare int he loft, I'll look.

Money no object, I'd buy a soft dash!