Range Rover Blues

Well both cylinders did it so I'll assume they should. I'm not having much joy replacing the flexi hose over the holidays but I'll try it next week. I've noticed that when I first get in it behaves fine, then after 5 minutes of running, even idling on the drive, it starts to drag. Also I have more success if I don't push the clutch all the way down. Anyway, I'm pretty resigned to it being a new clutch, I wouldn't mind if it wasn't this time of year. Hey ho. Thanks for the advice.

Thanks, the hose is the only hydraulic part I've not replaced because I'm not loosing any fluid. It never occurred that it could be the cause. BTW, should fluid drip out of the master cylinder when it's disconnected? neither of the ones I've got did which seems odd. If it wasn't raining sideways again I'd be checking the pedal is returning properly now, bit of a long shot though. Thanks Deep.

On the hard dash the black box is stuffed up under the dash somewhere, I've got one to take out myself sometime but keep putting it off. On a softie they racked all the ECUs behind the glovebox They are hard but not impossible to find. try this As long as it's dissarmed you can programme it to your key fobs, if it's armed it's pretty stuffed unless these guys can help. They also sell the get-you-home plug to bypass the starter cut-out circuit. BTW, the alarm and central locking are all one unit, the alarm can also switch on the interior lights IIRC. Good luck

They were still doing that when my soft dash was built.

About 10 days ago, the TDi started playing up. I'd notice more noise than usual when the clutch was pressed but as I'm using the Micra for work I put it down to getting used to that thing. The clutch seemed to stick just above the carpet so I played with it for a while but then after about half a mile the clutch started to drag when changing. Well since then I've tried a few things. The clutch damper first, now the master and slave are new. What's annoying is that it all seems fine on the drive, but once I get cleaned up and go for a drive it starts again. HUMBUG! To add insult the clutch now feels heavier than before, I can't see anything wrong with the mechanicals but I'n not sure the master was 100%. Now, other than having fitted a duff master cylinder what else could it be? I haven't done anything inside the bellhousing and despite having promised the car a new clutch 3 years ago it's still soldiering on. Any ideas guys?

Tyres scrubbing on tight lock might just be the tracking because it's very crude on these things. As suggested try lifting one wheel and spinning it with a breaker bar, you should just be able to torque the wheelnuts against the Viscous coupling.

The asymetrical damper set up was intended to absorb any torsional tramp in the rear end. The original prototypes had the trailing link brackets even higher on the axle and rear-end tramp was noticeable, the dampers are designed to stop this, Rover weren't the only company to do things like this and it was standard industry practice for a time. The rear axle was changed just before production which would have reduced torsional tramp as a by-product. The dampers were changed roughly when they stopped holding the dampers on with split pins and I think it was when the axles were "metricated" in the 80's. the diffs got bigger bearings and the propshafts got beefed up with bigger UJs, I think it coincides with EFi but this was before any of mine were built so I think of this period as "the dark ages", when BL were still stealing Land Rover's profits to build things like the Metro

Eat your Wheatabix (other cereals are available). TBH if it's pressurised then it's not standard so you'd best fit a pair. Also, and this is a biggy, if you fit non-genuine (even OEM non-air shocks) onto a car with EAS, check and double check the extended length. If they are too long then at full rebound you will hear a loud POP as the air bag fails, usually at the bottom as it jumps off the seat. You can rebuild them I'm told, but not at the side of the road.

Just jumping in here, the '92 has a MASS air flow, no moving parts! the earlier Volume Air Flow would not have been fitted on a car this "new". I'd assume by 92 it would have lambdas, in which case once running the EFi should be running closed loop and ignoring the MAF, but you can check this by unplugging it before starting up. With a broken MAF it will start and run better with it unplugged. Now the ECU controls engine speed with a stepper motor, it's a black screw-in jobby in a housing on the back of the plenum, there's 4 wires in it. you can try unplugging this and see if the idle speed stabilises, it may cut out though. When you turn on the ignition you may hear this resetting, it's supposed to so don't worry. It has no feedback so it screws all the way in then counts the pulses that drive it out. If the valve gets sticky it can get confused. But I would try putting all the old stuff back on and try again. Also try cracking the dizzy onwards just a tiny bit. When working on an ignition system like this one it's best to change one thing at a time and let it settle into it's new home, a bit like buying a puppy.

I've just been reading your thread. I've got to say I was a bit horrified to hear you were ripping the V8 out of the LSE for an oil burner, I hope you don't end up regretting that. We've got both and yes, with UK prices the TDi is easier on the pocket but it's a much rougher car to drive. It's got enough poke and pulls a couple of tonnes quite easily, prefering to cruise at 55 when it's towing, any slower and you have to drop a gear. But I also know how much heavier the LSE was, mine's got a TVR 5.0 in it which is why I've been saving for a new gearbox. I kept the air on mine and fitted Arnott air springs so I get an extra 3" of travel at the back but none of the driveline/steering issues you normally get with a lift of 2" or more. Anyway, I'm stoked to see another RRC kept on the road, that's the main thing after all, use it and enjoy it.

From what I remember the 5.7 was available in a number of american cars and vans, for some reason the firing order is different in a panel van to the (I want to say Camero but I'm not sure) and the one my mate had was a van engine. It had extra engine mounts and a 3-speed Chrysler slush box, I think the one LR themselves used. I don't know how fast it really was but it sure could drink like a yank tank.

On the main connector for the immobiliser there are 6 wires IIRC, the plug is white. At one end there's a pair of wires which is the starter circuit, you can jump these across to circumvent the immobiliser and I've bought a plug from Vehicle Wiring products that does just this, it's a get-you-home solution. BTW I'm assuming you're asking about a RRC and not the Disco, I've never dealt with the spider so I can't help with that. Now if the immobiliser is on you need the key fob to disable it, it only works on one circuit, the starter and the immobilising isn't turned off with the key if it's put on remotely. If you get it turned off then remove the microswitches in the door handles and you'll have central locking but no alarm. You can get a toad immobiliser for about £50,branded as Sterling, on E-Bay and these are suprisingly good with 2 circuit immobilising so it's Thatcham approved. Or VWP can help you wire the later 2 button unit into your car but these need Testbook if there's a problem with them.

Seeing another post on the forum reminded me I have a question that no-one has ever answered. I read somewhere that Overfinch (Schuler as was) modified the rear suspension geometry on the RRC when they heaved a bigger engine in. Can anyone confirm if this is true and better still does anyone know what they did?

I've done several and the guy who skimmed mine has done hundreds. he reminded me just to check the valve "stand down" ie how much the closed valves are recessed into the head. Skimming removes the pocket around the valves which raises compression pressure slightly but you can remedy the valve stand down by re-grinding the seats (or lapping the hell out of them). I've got one that's been skimmed twice to my knowledge, though not currently fitted it ran ok.

On the RRC with ABS the pump is only there to power the EGR system. I'm not sure but I think the Disco needs the vacuum for the brakes with or without ABS? Anyhoo, if I could get a blanking plate the vac pump could go in the bin, from what you say it would make a good doorstop. If you wanted to bother with a mod, the alternator off something else (Cavalier/Isuzu TDi, Transit etc) would have a vac pump on the back of the alternator, ther is perhaps just enough room for it on the 300TDi.

Not one of LRs better designs, the P gasket is held sealed by 3 of the water pump bolts, so really needs doing with every water pump swap. The last one I did had been copper-greased when it was fitted before, the bolts came straight out so I'd suggest either threadlock/sealer or copper grease for the long bolts every time. Also check the housing is flat, especially if the P gasket has leaked in the past.

If peak BHP is lower than a TDi, how much benifit would the Iveco turbo really be? Is it a straight swap?

LR sold a long-neck towball for the Disco, it had 2 loops on the side for the breakaway cable, I've seen them on DII towbars. Otherwise an Al-Ko towball or a Dixon-Bates "Pinball Wizard" combination hitch.

I've tried it and kept record of my MPG. TBH the oncrease in economy had more to do with the extra half litre of oil in the fuel tank than anything else. It wasa bit quieter but not enough to justify the faffing about, I can't comment on the smoke but i like to think it was less. From what i read it makes more difference in poor quality fuel.

My LSE is the same and I think it's the heater matric that needs more than just flushing out.

As John Candy might have said, "they can buff this out". If you stand directly behind it, it looks ok. Otherwise thats quite badly bent. Without seeing it closer I'd guess it has gone into something very tree-like at speed, not neccessarily traveling in the same direction it was pointing

My Cavalier had one fitted as standard (filter heater that is). It always ran well in the bad weather we get here, very reliable.

Normaly I'd have thought if the chassis was rotten then fit a new galvanised one, but if you want to keep it original then perhaps you need to repair theone you have. A lot of classic car boys are using soda dipping or similar chemical processes that burn any rust away from the bodyshell. It's good from a restoration point of view in that you can then epoxy-prime the shell and it won't rust again. The downside is that it leaves some panels looking like lace curtains. It's got to be worth the effort of fixing it up though.

I might be wrong here but I thought that 24 vollt motors were parrallel wound and 12 volt motors series wound, ie the same windings wired up differently. It makes the manufacture much cheaper because essentially they are the same thing. Alternatively I guess the 24volt motor would be worth something second hand. Nice find though

BFG A/T are really good tyres but the M/T are just a little disapointing for the money. For a road tyre BTWm if the tread is wider than the rim you don't get as good a "turn in", but be guided by the manufacturer's recomendations for rims vs tread. I've got some Avons on the LSE for tarmac and they are really good, but I don't go crazy off tarmac.