nicks90

why not just use a normal workbench - and instead of tying it in to the wall (and hence getting wrath of landlord when you leave) bolt it to the floor. that way it aint gonna shift round when you use it and when you leave, unbolt it and fill the holes with sand and a bit if wetted cement powder to hide the holes. Rub some muck on the fresh cement circles and they'll never know!

thats strange, cos the harmon kardon system fitted in the wifes disco 2 ES is absolutely AWESOME! the clarity and volume and depth of sound you get is staggering. Easily the best factory fitted sound system i've come across.

couldnt you just use a conventional trailer tent and reinforce the frame underneath and add a stripped out series rear axle and leaf springs? my old conway trailer tent opened out in less than 60 seconds to provide a large double bed and living room area with a full kitchen unit on the side - with optional awning that zipped onto the frame to double the living space. cost me £50 from ebay, something like attached - red lines are reinforcing 3x3 box section and spring mounts......

£100 will buy you the correct downpipe required to fit a disco tdi into a 90/110, negating the need to remould footwells or butcher and weld the exhaust yourself. its a straightforward fit and forget and mates straight up to the existing td exhaust system already on the vehicle. saves a huge amount of time and hassle.

i think the problem with oiled filters - like the k&n - is how it is serviced by the owner, with a paper element, you remove the old one and put the new one in. Job done, works well and you cant mess it up. As long as you keep it dry and change it regularly then you are safe as houses. Oiled guaranteed for life filters are a totally difference story. You have to clean them, can the manufacturer guarantee it is being cleaned properly? Is it being dried properly before oiling? Is it being oiled correctly? Too much or too little oil? If the owner screws any of those things up - and depending on environmental factors - you could either strangle the engine with a gummed up oily mess of a filter, or allow far too many fine particles through and experience bore/valve seat wear. I would be interested to see what particle size a standard paper element will filter out compared to a k&n, itg or other brand of filter. If they all filter out the same particle size (if properly cleaned and oiled), then i dont see any problem with using them - as long as the maintanence instructions are followed to the letter.

i replaced the stereo in my '96 90 with a jvc unit with aux input from ebay for a very reasonable £50. HUGE improvement over the standard unit, but the LR front speakers didnt do the trick. bought some pioneer speakers to replace those, but found the 50w per channel (x4) stereo still caused bass breakup at high volumes required for motorway driving. as it happens, my fairly decent kenwood mini system died. i checked the voltage and power ratings on the back of the speakers (12v, 65w) and they matched the headunit nicely, so i fastened the speakers from the minisystem just behind the center bulkhead and conected them straight up to the stereo. Easy to do as it is a 4 channel headunit and just bullet connectored it in and i now have 4 decent speakers! The kenwood minispeakers are only 10"x6"x4" and stay nicely out of the way pointing towards the back door for optimum acoustics. there was just enough room between the internal cage uprights and the tub sides for them to slide between! Balance is slightly biased to the rear speakers, as they have much better bass grunt to handle metallica - and it will go loud enough to make the seat backs vibrate and water bottle jiggle on the dash, without any distortion across the frequency range. proper happy!

the other option is to take off the little boost pipe that fits on the injection pump from the turbo - so that when they floor it, the pump doesnt know its on boost and doesnt chuck in any extra fuel...... get your ticket, push the pipe back on the pump and away you go

cos he's in the states and you cant import a 90/110 over there AFAIK. You could import an old 2 door rangie to the US i think, then build a coil sprung hybrid based on that. But getting one with a decent chassis is the problem, probably needs loads of chassis repairs - in which case you might as well just weld all the coil sprung jiggery pokery onto your series chassis if its sound.

yep - thats what i do. i do have a sideways facing seat to put back into the 90, but so far have been 'too busy' to get round to it.

i agree with mark90, got some machos on my 90 and they are pretty good in the mud - but in deep clay you have to spin 'em up to clear the tread. much better than my old bfg muds, bridgestone duellers and kingpin remoulded rubbish piece of cr@p things it had on when i got it. only thing i've used better in the mud is firestone SATs, but they were 'interesting' on tarmac, grass, rock, gravel........ well basically everything but mud.

i just laughed so hard i had a little wee accident. although the mag couldnt have got much worse

not a LR related example - but.... the air flow meter died on the wifes old fiat 1.8. ran like a bitch, wouldnt rev, kept cutting out blahblahblah unplugged the air flow meter and it ran fine! turns out, that the ECU with no AFM input goes into a default mode and just guesses at the figures. Seemed to run fine so i thought "sod it" and just used it without the AFM. This lead to the engine running really lean and burning a hole in teh top of one of the pistons........ not saying thats what'll happen on your engine, but...

i cannot stand any of the LR or offroad mags at the moment, full of pompous idiots. I am certainly no repository of knowledge on all things 4x4 - even go so far as to say a novice! - but when i read TOR even i can tell some things they say are completely wrong. as for LRO - coblers in more ways that one! One more mention of certain companies and they might as well just put "This is an advertising feature for protrax and scrapiron" on the front cover! recently i took part in an RTV where a "magazine" with "enthusiast" in the title had some cameramen attend to take some video. Said magazines editor type bod turned up to compete (he is a member of our club, but probably the only event he has turned up to, wonder why?) video equipment set up with one of the groups and shot some footage etc with certain "chap" driving around like a knob. Camera men decided to join the other group in the afternoon to shoot them instead. so "he" decides to leave his group and join ours so he can get some more footage of him being an arse. Needless to say his scorecard was incorrect as he had driven some of the sections twice and missed others out by swapping between the groups. Talk about being a media whore..........i can guarantee he'll be all over the feature in the mag as our "resident trials hero....blahblahblah!" funniest bit was when he tried to clear one section about 6 times for the camera and kept failing at the 2 gate. Most of us in fairly standard 90's cleared it no problems. To say most of the video was unusable due to all of us heckling is an understatement. TOR - full of pointless cartoon type story boards with no tech information at all. Such a shame, as it could be so good. giving up on the glossies now. i do have a few copies kicking about, but i only use them as a source of phone numbers when i require bits for the landie. as has been said in other posts - most of the UK mags are now just a "means to an end" for editors / journos never ending quest for media coverage and cheap parts for their own builds.

i just buy the 5 gallon drums of oil from my local HGV service garage, £30 for 5 gallons of 15w40 diesel engine oil £30 for 5 gallons of ep80/90 gl5 tranny oil. if it works for HGV's and the big 30t earth movers and other plant machinery they service - then it'll be fine in my 90. Afterall, methinks a massive jcb or hgv will put more stress on their diffs than my little 24 spline efforts will EVER experience!!! cant remember the brand - something like Exxen or something... as for the difflock gearbox oil - good stuff! Wifes old disco wouldnt engage 2nd gear, totally screwed synchro. But i didnt have time to replace the box so i stuck some difflock oil in - 2nd gear starting working and it lasted another 3 months before i finally HAD to change the box..... just about to stick some in the wifes new disco 2 - as it whines ever so slightly under full load at high speeds.

certainly did on my wheels - chipped a couple of places and within months the wheels looked a right state. seen this happen on a gentle grerenlaning run. Lucky noone was killed as he was going very slowly! We inspected the bracket afterwards and could clearly see it was nothing to do with rot either as it had only light surface rust - but the welding was ATROCIOUS with virtually no penetration. Typical landrover build quality. Was very lucky it didnt fail whilst driving round a corner sharpish between the lanes we were driving!

on an M reg disco, if it didnt have the mod done it would have probably eaten a few belts by now and been consigned to the big scrappy in the sky! it is afterall 14 years old! but worth changing the belt anyway, mod or no mod...

i'm struggling to understand how a bigger spark will increase the burn rate of any air-fuel mixture and hence raise CP or produce more power? I'm basing this on my understanding of explosives:- normally any explosive will have a set burn rate (except rdx/nitrocellulose which also relies on pressure, in a vacuum it stops working - funny story about how they used this initially on explosive bolts on a space mission.......) anyway - as long as your initial detonator has the energy capacity to set off the burn reaction in the oxidant/explosive/fuel then thats all you need. For instance, setting black powder off with a match will induce the same burn speed as setting it off with a pulsed laser diode to detonate initiators made of Hexanitrostilbene through fiber-optic cables... soooo - as long as the spark from your plug has sufficient energy to ignite the mixture - then thats all you need. If you have a very poorly maintained ignition system producing a spark incapable of ignition, then these plugs might cure it - but all you are doing is masking the problem and not fixing it. complete snake oil imho.

totally agree. when i was doing the brake pipes on a mates 2dr rangie - i must have binned about 10 lengths of pipe due to having to use a draper flaring tool. absolutely carp. ridges and ripples on all the ends, misshapen, burrs and copper flakes..... horrible.

if you have lots of lift - you really need a longer panhard rod to keep the axle in the right place under the truck, otherwise it sits slightly off center.....

off topic - thread hijack - mucho apologies what is a reasonable offer for your ecu etc - mate of mine stupidly did some welding to his disco and didnt disconnect anything....... fried the ecu and needs a replacement. please mail me on nick.clayton@uk.fujitsu.com with a guide price. Nick

RV8 being an old design, tend to run on the basis of low pressure - high volume for lubrication. Thats mainly cos of the quite large tolerances designed into the engine to make it simple and cheap to produce 'back in the old days'. Hence a fairly thick oil is recommended to keep the pressure up. Once that engine gets a bit worn, it will definitely be suffering low oil pressure - therefore a good gloopy oil is required to keep the thing from siezing, For something like Ians engine ie. put together properly with fine tolerances and no worn out parts and a good dollop of care + attention - 15/40 is fine. btw, 15/40 semi synth is a good choice for diesels - so your engine is halfway there

ohhhhh nostalgic for my old 2a now hot ep90, stale ciggy smoke, wet smelly dogs in the back and the slight aroma of diesel exhaust fumes...... carcinagenic timetomb i'm sure - but brings back some wonderful memories.

my wifes disco had a set of collie A/T's and did about 20k road miles on them and they were just over half worn when we sold it. excellent tyre and only needed approx 20gms balance weight on each to balance up perfectly. Even fully loaded and with caravan hitched up, they still handled well. Offroad, well not much difference between the BFG and collies - both clag up terribly in clay sticky conditions, but superb on gravel, grass and ice/snow. we got them in 235/75/16 for £33 a corner from sowden tyres!!!