Mr Bean

I am to collect my latest purchase - Defender at the weekend. It will be a 400mile round trip. It doesn't run so a friend of mine is going to tow for me with the use of an A-Frame. My question is "What is an A-Frame?" Then "Is it suitable?" Followed by "Will the transmission wind up?" I have little experience of recovery some i need some help people, please. Thanks, Trev

Keep the Series 1 at Morroco and drive every where else in your Range Rover.

All part P has meant to me is very little where i work in an industrial environment anybody can do electrical work if they can blag a job. If electrcial work needs to be policed then a proper body should be set up like CORGI for the gas fitters.

My factory briefly looked into a CHP plant but with the rise in gas cost it was not viable to do. An idea to run the motors. Instead of using a DC motor use a 400v induction motor at each wheel. To increase speed just change the frequency via an inverter. This could be run direct of a generator and would not require a battery or any form of DC in it.

If you were in the desert with an electrical fault what would you sooner drive? A series 1 or a Range Rover Sport?

I have the solution for Jaguar! Can we as a forum chip in and buy it? How about £1 each? This should then stop Ford from selling Land Rover.

And I thought the Part P Regs were a waste of time?

The problem is always going to be carrying enough electricity to do it. So you will need to make it as you need it.

Electric is definatley a way foreward. Or perhaps a small nuclear reactor in each car?

If i was in a position of power i would go for a corporate buy out. In various magazines you read "executive so and so is so passionate about the brand" if they are so bothered let them buy it out. I just hope it gets run better than Rover did. It bothers me because next year i will be in the market for a Freelander II.

I have ordered a lot of parts from Paddocks ( www.paddockspares.com ) and the telephone manner was superb and so was the delivery. No trouble from them or the courier.

Or milk it!!!!!

I bet that was a "brown" trouser moment!

Was the dog an optional extra? You can now call me Mr Envious. Absolutley beautiful!

I grease mine every other week. This is when i'm on night shift and the workshop is too quiet.

Relocate your batteries to the rear. No problems with access then. Make sure you use 0 Gauge wiring when you wire it in.

The good thing with your engine is when it does die a 200tdi is a very easy replacement. But until then enjoy it, you've made a good choice.

Are 88" rear panels a complete straight swap? Or are any mods needed? Thanks for the input so far.

I want to remove the rear slinding windows in the back of my 110 CSW. Is there a replacement panel available to fit or will i need to fix a piece in and then fill over it and re-spray? I still want to keep the rear doors the same just take out the ones in the load bed. A bit like the new 110 Utillity. By the way i have a very early 110 so it has the series door tops and the series style rear windows, if i cant remove them can i fit some of the later spec slinding windows in their place or will i need to replace the entire side panel? Any ideas? Thanks Trev

You will be looking at the £50 mark. If it doesn't hold the gas, and runs out again you will need a dye putting in to find the leak..... Once found it can be costly, i.e. condenser or compressor.

It's got electric windows.... WOW My 110 is still on sliding windows, but it was made in 1984... Very envious.

Here in Lincolnshire i must see at least 20 Defenders every day, we are full of farmers round here.

That diagram looks good enough to work from, the drawings i'm used to seeing are generally on the back of a fag packet.

What difference does it make if you have a bull bar fitted or not. It's got 2 tonnes of Land Rover pushing i would be more concerned about that then it's bumper. And if some TW*T drives into the back of me because 3 things will happern:- 1. Spare wheel in their windscreen. 2. Tow bar through their radiator. 3. That person has got to answer to my mrs!!!! I wouldn't like no.3.

Carbide tipped drills are the best you can get. I'm an engineer in the food industry and everything is made from Stainless steel, if you take your time a good "Dormer" HSS drill with the correct coolant and at the right feed and speed will cut through anything. It makes it a bit more awkward when it's upside down. Trev