Escape

If you use high strenght bolts, those will be able to take the strain. The load will be divided more evenly over the 4 bolts than when mounting the winch feet down as the wire will always be between the 4 bolts and not some distance above. You do need to make sure the mounting on the crossmember is up to it, for example by using crush tubes inside and a plate to spread the load at the opposite side. Have you made sure when mounting feet forward the rope wont rub on the tie bars?

I'd say it was still more of an automotive show than what Top Gear had become by that time (as amusing as their format can be).

That is a nice build! Not rational, but certainly fun and could even have its use. I don't think he needed to bother with the cage. I recall the Smart has an incredible stiff inner frame, necessary to pass crash tests. Didn't the doors still open after a frontal impact at 50mph or something? So just mount the tent to the standard roof frame, saves weight and height.

The D2/P38 rims are in fact ET56, which would make the axles for the P38 1652mm flange tot flange at the front and 1642mm at the rear. For the D2 the front is also 1652mm but the surprisingly the rear is 1662mm (according to the dimensions in Rave). For reference, RRC/D1/Def is 1552mm flange to flange front and rear (again from Rave and assuming the dimensions given are for the later alloy wheels and not the steelies that have 21mm offset instead of 33mm). Which is why you can fit adaptors to an RRC/Def to fit P38/D2 rims, but the other way around is a bad idea as the combined effect of the spacers and different offset would put the wheels way too much outwards. Filip

There is a screw to adjust the base air bypass, near the throttle valve. But as above, first make sure there are no vacuum leaks or other faults (like the throttle not closing fully).

That would be the oil pressure switch. Does the oil pressure warning light come on when you turn on the ignition but don't start the engine? Probably not, as it needs both wires connected. Not a real problem, until you actually do encounter low oil pressure, so best sort the wiring.

That seems like a good plan, and a good reason to use the 30A switches. 40mm² cable will easily handle 200A continuously, that's about 2500W! It's thicker than any cable in the standard wiring loom and more than what most people use for an electric winch. Just not so easy to use as it will be very stiff. As above, individual diagrams are very useful, it's how most if not all car wiring diagrams are supplied (as opposed to the old all-on-one-sheet diagrams that got terribly complex even before all the 'modern' elektrickery was introduced). But you do want to add a diagram showing power distribution and fuses etc.

In that case you really want a 3-position switch: off, automatic (activated by the sensor) or manual. The "off" setting should probably come with a warning light, as it's easy to miss and you don't want to see your temp gauge rise too much before you notice it! I did a quick google for the 3 wires, seems grey is for normal speed and grey+brown for high speed, black for earth. That would make it a bit harder to wire, especially if you don't know what the board does exactly. Easiest would be to only use high speed and be done with it. As an aside, when Triumph gave the Stag a facelift, they changed the interior lights from earth switched to live switched. But they didn't bother to change the wiring, so you'd have a few black wires running through the interior that were permanent 12V!

I only get Land Rover parts from Rimmer if I can add them to an order for other stuff (Triumph or such). Maybe a bit pricey, but cutting down on shipping is usually worth it. And can't fault their quality or service.

I had read 1hp per V, probably to be on the safe side. And depends on tension and wrap angle of course. Either way enough to get similar power as a standard electric winch, and no doubt more efficient.

In the past I also used semi-synthetic 10W40 in the Range Rovers, as that's what was most common. Now I run mineral 20W50 in everything, seems to work fine. I'd probably switch back to 10W40 if I would travel to Sweden in winter.

Nope, we went to great trouble rebuilding an R380 with a lower 1st gear (from a diesel) to mate to the 5.0 and adapt everything in the car to work with it. Pedalbox of course, but also wiring loom and in the P38 there is even a difference between the transfer boxes as the output shaft isn't identical... I'm sure it will be worth it. 🙂

That's reassuring to hear! I have a set of Rhoads bleed down lifters in the 5.0, but that hasn't run yet. They were bought as part of my silly upgrade spree (along with the roller rockers that turned out to be too high to fit under the rocker covers...) and I had questioned the sanity of my choice. I typically use low to mid rpm, and am hoping for the claimed increase in torque due to shorter overlap and less lift causing more/better swirl.

Good to hear you've found a solution for the idler and have the engine running! As @Bowie69 said, the intermediate torque converter as on the 4.0 and later 4.6 should do just fine. My P38 was used like that for years after the PO had fitted a 4.6 instead of a 4.0. Same setup on our friends 4.6 RRC, he's still using the original autobox from the 3.5 (rebuilt earlier this year) with the biggest torque convertor he could find and fit, which turned out to be the intermediate one. You do have to pay attention to the spacing, best measure it up before bolting together: how deep the torque converter sits from the edge of the bellhousing (after properly engaging all the splines!) and how far the flexplate protrudes from the engine block. I recall you want about 5mm clearance, certainly not a thight fit as that will put load on the oilpump and can/will lead to early failure. There are different size spacers available that go between flywheel and flexplate to mix and match to get the right clearance. You're welcome to pop over for a chat and see what I have on the shelves. We're near Leuven, so pretty central. 😉 Filip

I just realised, if he had some more cilinders, he could build a nut sorting column and sort all sizes in one go. That would be proper cool!

A few weeks ago I got to visit a workshop where they rebuild diesel trains (including the huge 2-stroke V12 and V16 engines, I was like a kid in a candy store!). They had mobile single post lifts with wireless coupling and controlled from a single master unit. At 22.5ton each 4 are enough to lift a single diesel carriage. For the big locs they use a big overhead crane to lift them off the tracks, move to the correct workbay and then put down on a bunch of sizeable axle stands.

What about flanged nuts? I'd want them sorted by thread size, not outer diameter of course. And for bolts you need to be able to take length into account as well. Getting a few slaves to sort the old fasteners seems easier. 😁

It doesn't help that most 2-door cars are rather low. The Esprit doesn't have big doors at all, but because you need to slide down into the seat, preferably without bumping your head, you need to open the door almost fully to have enough room to even attempt getting in with a minimum of dignity. Whereas in the Range you can just climb in. So even though the P38 has slightly bigger doors, it needs less space to the side. I once did have someone park so close to the Range Rover that the door didn't open far enough to even clear the door card! So I got in from the passenger side and from there started the engine and backed out with the handbrake and autobox in R. One of the few times I was happy to have an automatic. 🙂

Just spotted an error in my maths (let's call it a typo): It takes about 4kW to heat water at a rate of 1 litre/minute from 20°C to 80°C. So the small ones should manage about 30 litres/hour, which is reasonable for occasional use.

Indeed, I considered an electric shower for the Workshop. There rare over here and looking at the power requirements I can understand why. I now have a small electric boiler, 2.2 kW for 15 litres and takes about 20 minutes to get the water nice and warm. Same as you, I stay away from the engine with a pressure washer, but happily use the steam (hot water) cleaner as that is far less pressure and dries up a lot faster. Usually from underneath the car, not through the bonnet.

Size does matter, doesn't it? Mine is too wide to fit through a standard door (only just...), which meant it always took some shuffling to get it out past the cars and through the garage door. Now it lives outside, under the carport. That works out great, no water inside if it leaks and I don't need to wait for the diesel odor to disappear before storing it. I've also done a bit of math. It takes about 4kW to heat water at a rate of 1 litre/hour from 20°C to 80°C. So those small steamers of about 2.5kW can manage about 0.5 l/hr. Which is a long way from 450 litres/hour! Even a big one wouldn't manage that, but with steam you don't really need a big flow so it's not a problem. The flow rating is no doubt for cold water. It does put things in perspective and explains why most use a diesel heater.

That would be useful! I've spent many hours sorting spare nuts and bolts. You do reap the benefits next time you need something, so time well spent.

I tried to imagine what a stretched bobtailed Classic would look like. Now I know, though I didn't really need to see that... Maybe it would be OK as a pickup?

I though about that, but a 2-door will be 100" so no way to make that fit on a P38 chassis.

It is best to include the warning light circuit for the second alternator, as that also provides the exciter current. Without it, you might have to rev the engine before the alternator starts charging by itself. It's just the relay that isn't needed. You didn't include the 3 wires on the cooling fan, so no way of knowing it's a 2-speed motor. 😉 And I'm still not clear on what you want the manual switch to do? Turn the fan off (ex when crossing deep water) or on manually as a precaution.