Escape

You should be fine with the current wiring, you just wont have much margin to run other power tools when the compressor engages. For reference, over here we can use up to 3.5kW on a single 230V socket, which would be wired at 2.5mm² (unless on an long run) and fused at 20A. Appliances up to 3kW are quite common (heaters etc). Never heard of any problems, on a proper installation that is. As to the compressor, it looks very nice! If a bit expensive. I'm always surprised at the big price increase going from a large hobby compressor to small industrial one, for seemingly little gain in performance. Which is why I run one of the bigger Stanley DIY ones, 2.2kW, 350l/min and ca €250. Very happy with it, though I admit I don't often use air tools so it's mainly for tyres, cleaning, topping up the EAS and running the safety catches on the lift.

That's not entirely correct: an open diff will give a 50/50 torque split but will allow rotation (and thus power) to differ. So axle/wheel with the lowest traction determines the torque that can be applied, with one slipping this will be almost zero. A locked diff will maintain equal rotation, but will transfer torque (and thus power) to the side that can take the most. So the torque split can be anywhere between 100/0 and 0/100. Which means only one axle needs traction to keep moving and can potentially receive all the torque available. ATBs are in between, but much closer to a locked diff in terms of possible torque split so almost all of the advantages but none of the disadvantages. Your explication about wheels losing traction is correct of course, just nitpicking on the physics behind it. 😉

Yes, there is a difference in direction. The water pump and thus the fan turn in the opposite direction to the crank on a serpentine V8, whereas on the earlier V-belts they turn in the same direction. So you do need to take that into account.

I always found the TD5 much nicer than the Tdci. 😉

No doubt aimed at the lifestyle crowd/ soccer players that want something different from an AMG G-class, but can't quite afford a tricked out Bentayga. 😄

Yes, that's the one we ordered. Not my car though, I don't do moderns. It's in a 2003 TD6, never had a problem since. The seller was also quick to answer our questions, so you can always send him an email to confirm it will work on your car. As I remember, 2003 to 2005 should be the same.

It took me a while to find out where we ordered the bypass. Seems it was already 5 years ago! http://www.ecuvonix.com/land-rover-range-rover-scleslelv-emulator-p-2934.html Still working as it should. Filip

That's tough luck... Seeing you're in the US, I'm guessing it's a 4.0 or 4.6 V8? First off, are you sure the tank is cracked and it's not the pressure cap releasing? That will still point to a problem, possibly even head gasket failure, but could be an easier fix as well. To split the tank it would probably have to be exposed to excessive pressure for some time. But that doesn't necessarily mean the problem is still present, so could still be as easy as replacing the tank. - what was the temperature reading before the coolant spewed out? Steady and normal, or rising? - are you sure the coolant level was OK? There are a few simple checks you can do if you get the engine running again: - check for pressure in the various coolant hoses (the big one at the top of the radiator is an easy one to check), they will get harder as temperature rises but should not feel like they're about to burst - check for bubbles in the expansion tank - check for traces of exhaust gases in the expansion tank It's a bit of a shame the car is already at a mechanic, and one you don't fully trust it seems. I'd try to refill (after replacing the tank if it is indeed cracked) and recreate the problem, under more controlled circumstances. Replacing the head gaskets isn't that difficult. It's one of the first big jobs I did on a Land Rover. So don't rule it out, you only need basic tools and willingness to learn and try. 😉 Filip

The later electronically controlled boxes have a dedicated line for the lock-up, so easy to add a manual switch. In the older ones it would be difficult I think.

Very interested thread! I've done a rebuild on a standard ZF4HP22 and that was pretty straightforward. Once you start mixing and matching parts, no doubt there will be some challenges.

As above, you need the 2 diodes to prevent back feeding. I've used similar to your link for switches, seems to work fine. In (older) wiring looms you often find diodes with spade connectors, like this and I see they're even available to fit in a fuse holder like this.

I compared both versions when rebuilding my box and the input shaft it too different between the diesel and petrol to get a good fit. Not sure which was the bigger/longer of the 2. I guess you could fit the smaller one instead of the bigger, with a appropriate clutch disc, but it would not be an ideal solution. So either the 64A box that is in your car has been rebuilt with a diesel input shaft, or the clutch setup has been modified. If you replace the entire clutch pack, you should have no problems fitting a 65A. Edited to add: clutch slave is identical and master interchangeable between diesel and petrol, but the bellhousing is different. The smaller diesel bellhousing uses a shorter shaft for the same clutch fork. But it's unlikely that has been changed, so should still be original.

Considering these days most replacements for Lucas parts are made in China for Britpart, I'm not convinced it's an improvement!

Yeah, I would have preferred to find something obviously wrong. Like a thermostat stuck closed. Still, the test drive today went well, temperature rose to a steady 90° and dropped when coasting. And yes, in hindsight I could have asked (and paid!) you instead of the tow company and then we could have 'enjoyed' a road trip together and have a good talk...

I jinxed it... 😞 I spent most of yesterday waiting for a flatbed and then being miserable in the passenger seat as my P38 was recovered home. I was halfway to Slovenia when the V8 overheated, presumably because the thermostat failed to open. Worst thing is, I was on my way to Ljubljana for a valentines weekend with my better half, who was already there for work. The airline cancelled my flight on Friday morning at the last minute, without much info (I had to call them myself to confirm) and importantly without offering an alternative. Driving there seemed like the only options, so I pretty much set off straight after a long day of meetings and just a quick check of the car. Coolant level was verifies of course and the first leg went very smoothly. I was actually enjoying the trip until things went horribly wrong... Thermostat has already been replaced, tough it tested it and it seemed to work. Maybe an occasional problem? Earlier this year the same Rangie had no problems towing Tommy the Lightweight to Mannington and back, so under much higher load.

As I drive through the valley filled with mud and ruts, I will fear no obstacle, as my Land Rover is with me. 🙂

Sorry to hear the one you ordered didn't work. I still need to look up the company I used, but it certainly wasn't this one, I think it was a German shop. To be fair, reading the explanation on this website does not inspire confidence, so I'm not that surprised it doesn't work... I also seem to remember there is a difference between early and later L322, so I would be surprised if the same emulator would work on 2001 to 2009 models.

Welcome to the forum! You can use an R380 from a V8 on a diesel, but you have to swap over the input shaft. Which means opening the box, so you might as well just do a rebuild on the box you have. First gear is also different, the diesel has a lower ratio. What exactly is the problem and why do you want to swap? Do you have another box available? As for the type, the P38 used 64 and 65A (both type D) as far as I know. With suffix J, K or L depending on the model year. Those are all interchangeable (for the same engine). The suffix has to do with internal improvements, not whether it's for a diesel or V8. Filip

That's what's happening in Belgium now. After the rules for a closed van were made a bit stricter (and most importantly better enforced), many bought a double cab pick up as they were still classed as a commercial. From this year on, new pick ups will be taxed as a car unless registered to a business. But fair game, existing pick ups will remain commercial so it will not affect their resale value. Me and @elbekko have removed the rear seats from our Range Rovers, as is often done, to qualify for commercial tax. So we do pay a price in practicality. I had to borrow a frekkin Picasso last year to be able to drive my in-laws to a funeral... The 2-seat Grenadier will certainly be a commercial in Belgium, as was the Defender 110 hardtop (or station wagon if the rear seats were removed). The 5-seater, not a chance! And tax will be considerably higher than in UK, so we're unlikely to see many of those.

Good that you've got it sorted! I wouldn't leave the key in. You can always remove/insert fuse 18 if needed. And if the problem persists, there are replacement circuit boards available to bypass the steering lock. I did this mod on a customer's car, but would have to look up the details as it's been a few years.

A bit late to the party, but I'm with @Chicken Drumstick on the automatic wipers and headlights. The wipers always seem to come on when not needed, like that time I was driving a (borrowed) C63AMG and giving it a bit more throttle in an uphill corner only to have something pass in front of me for no reasons whatsoever. Only a little irritation, but it did deduct from the experience. And that's the only remotely modern (2014) car I can still get along with, for obvious reasons. Even if the automatic wipers may be better suited in rapidly changing conditions, I still prefer a compromised interval setting I can control if and when I want. It may not be perfectly timed, but it will be predictable, instead of having to wait for the ECU to decide to wipe or not. Same for the lights, with the addition that most of the moderns I see no longer have an 'off' setting for the headlights. Especially some French brands seem to have the sensor triggered but the shadows when driving under a bridge, only for the lights to come on when exiting said bridge. And then staying on 'till just before the next bridge... Ridiculous! Especially as those same cars often run without lights in fog or rain. I also agree that headlights don't always offer the best visibility. Sure, you'll see that there is a vehicle, but you'll often be unable to see other details, like cyclists or pedestrians. Especially when it's not dark, but the bright lights do effect your vision. And I also often run with sidelights only. For example in light rain, as they will give a better indication to oncoming traffic, without the risk of glare headlights can produce, and more importantly, they will alert cars coming up behind me, especially important if there is some spray from the wheels. That's something DRLs don't offer and I really don't see the point of those at all. Back in the day when that was still possible, I always took the effort to dig into the menu to turn the DRLs off before taking my dad's car. Main thing, be it wipers or headlight, as a driver you should expect to do some work, to be engaged in the drive, not just push the loud pedal and let the car sort everything else out. I guess that explains why I'm so adamant about keeping my old cars running for as long as I can. 🙂 And why the Grenadier doesn't really appeal to me. Autobox only and digital dash (with little info from what I've read), it wouldn't need automatic wipers to irritate me. Filip

That looks like a completely drained battery. A maintainer wont be much help, you need a proper charger, preferably something like a Ctek that can recondition a depleted battery. For a quick check, try putting in a known good battery or connecting jumper cables to another battery or running car.

If you're lucky, 6 ton will suffice. But I've seen a 20 ton press fail to get a Range Rover bearing out... Can't hurt to try of course. Do make sure everything is properly supported and you're pressing on the right parts in the right direction. If it's like the later Range Rovers etc, you'll need to press out the center with the hub before you can reach the bearing center.

I get your point, if they can't even keep oil in, better not try with H2. 😄

Good progress! The bleed procedure on the P38 is a bit different to most cars, because of the hydraulic booster. Best to follow the manual. 😉