Escape

That's a bit harsh, isn't it? I'm not really a fan, but it does keep most of the Classic lines and character (maybe not once you're driving it). The wheels are not too big, especially compared to current trends and the bumpers not that far of the Brooklands kit. May not be to everyones taste, but there's far worse out there. Anything by Kahn for example... @Bowie69 we're allowed a lot on here, don't hold back. 😉

I have my doubts on the double wishbone suspension. I'm sure it's better on the road, but seems like a very poor compromise due to the short arms. Probably better to start from a more recent LR platform. I'm sure there are those happy to spend that kinda money to get a different looking Chelsea tractor. 😁

That sounds more like a bad case of limp home? Do diagnostics turn up any fault codes?

Just to be sure, try to have a look underneath to see if the props are turning with the car in gear. With the TorSen center diff, if one axle is spinning freely, the car wont be going anywhere. As said, usually a problem with the early ones that stripped the splines on the front diff flange but might be a similar problem on a later one.

If we're gonna post that kind of pictures 😁: here's another V8, with the gearbox behind the boxes. It took 5 people to lift it into the boot. Sadly the engine is still sitting on the pallet, after over a year...

The transfer box could have been replaced by an adapter to connect a prop directly to the gearbox. Or a different gearbox fitted, one meant to have an output flange instead of a transfer box. Not being able to actually see the vehicle does complicate matters! Can't you ask someone local(ish) to go and have a look? I've had fellow forum members go look at a car for sale on Ebay for me on several occasions.

I'd have good look underneath to see if there actually still is a transfer box and not an attempt at a 2wd conversion.

Does the pulse have a higher (legal or technical) GVW than the 3500 kg of a 130?

Just showed those to the missus. I have a birthday coming up next month. 😎

It's not wrong to have a thought about the state of the rear floor, as they can (will) get rusty. But there are plenty of reinforcements, so the rust needs to be really bad before there is a risk to the fuel tank. Most importantly, a gearbox isn't that heavy. 😉 Once you start putting in several 100kg, you do want to look at weight distribution (mainly for handling) and avoid concentrating the load on a small surface so as not to overload the (possibly rusted) floor. A pallet is great for spreading a load and to avoid pointy metal bits digging into the floor.

As above, start with bleeding the clutch hydraulics. Air in the system will expand as things warm up and that will make the clutch harder to disengage.

You can lift an R380 on your own, so the Disco will hardly notice it. 🙂 I've carried between 600 and 1000kgs of stuff in the back of my Range Rover on more than one occasion... I don't think the EAS likes me for it, but it did the job!

Brown (N) will be permanent 12V. The fact the old switch has 2 connections might be to safely handle the current flowing through the switch if few relays are used (as on older cars). Often labeled 30. White with orange stripe (WO) will be accessories, live in positions 1 and 2 but not 3. White (W) is ignition, live in positions 2 and 3. That will also activate the glow plug timer relay, so you do not need a separate wire for the glow plugs (older cars often did have an extra position to power the glow plugs, so the driver could decide how long they would come on manually). Often labeled 15. White with red stripe (WR) is to the starter (or starter relay if fitted). Only live in position 3.

You can get good quality leads from Bosch or NGK for about half the price of the Magnecors, and there not red (grey or black I think). There are different types, depending on which type of coils you're using.

I have been using an old standard vacuum (that 'accidentally' ended up in the Workshop after moving out from my ex) for over 10 years. It copes amazingly well, despite the abuse. I do have an external cyclone type canister to attach as a prefilter when doing metal flakes etc. Last week I was given a big old chimney vac. I've been using that on the rough concrete of the first floor storage and it works a treat! The place has never looked so clean. I'm thinking of painting it white with some colorful LEDs and calling it R2D2. 🙂

Autocar also mentions a turbocharged Ford V8, later on they refer to a 4-pot Ecoboost... My main comment was that I don't see a shifter for the transfer box, as in a Defender. Could be electrical I suppose, but I wouldn't bet on it. Fair play if it was built for a RAFA auction, that certainly is a worthy cause. And would warrant some of the choices made, aimed at hose with deep pockets but not necessarily planning on actually driving/using it.

I'm sure they could have fitted an LT230 to that 6-speed if they had wanted to.

Exactly! I'm a big fan of the Chinook, but apart from a military tint of green and some webbing that doesn't seem to practical, I don't see any link. It's just another overpriced customised Chelsea tractor, miles away from a proper Defender. Id I'm not mistaken, they've even left out the transfer box (I don't see the second shifter). Probably just threw in some autobox, don't need low gear 'cause it will never go off pavement anyway.

But they will be loaded in tension in the standard position as well: with the cable some distance above the bolts, there will be a torque trying to twist the winch forward. So the front bolts will be loaded in shear, the front feet in compression and the rear bolts in shear and tension. I've had a winchbumper twist in this way while recovering a G-wagon. Afterward the bumper was reinforced with a piece of angle iron to take the load.

If you use high strenght bolts, those will be able to take the strain. The load will be divided more evenly over the 4 bolts than when mounting the winch feet down as the wire will always be between the 4 bolts and not some distance above. You do need to make sure the mounting on the crossmember is up to it, for example by using crush tubes inside and a plate to spread the load at the opposite side. Have you made sure when mounting feet forward the rope wont rub on the tie bars?

I'd say it was still more of an automotive show than what Top Gear had become by that time (as amusing as their format can be).

That is a nice build! Not rational, but certainly fun and could even have its use. I don't think he needed to bother with the cage. I recall the Smart has an incredible stiff inner frame, necessary to pass crash tests. Didn't the doors still open after a frontal impact at 50mph or something? So just mount the tent to the standard roof frame, saves weight and height.

The D2/P38 rims are in fact ET56, which would make the axles for the P38 1652mm flange tot flange at the front and 1642mm at the rear. For the D2 the front is also 1652mm but the surprisingly the rear is 1662mm (according to the dimensions in Rave). For reference, RRC/D1/Def is 1552mm flange to flange front and rear (again from Rave and assuming the dimensions given are for the later alloy wheels and not the steelies that have 21mm offset instead of 33mm). Which is why you can fit adaptors to an RRC/Def to fit P38/D2 rims, but the other way around is a bad idea as the combined effect of the spacers and different offset would put the wheels way too much outwards. Filip

There is a screw to adjust the base air bypass, near the throttle valve. But as above, first make sure there are no vacuum leaks or other faults (like the throttle not closing fully).

That would be the oil pressure switch. Does the oil pressure warning light come on when you turn on the ignition but don't start the engine? Probably not, as it needs both wires connected. Not a real problem, until you actually do encounter low oil pressure, so best sort the wiring.