Escape

Another vote for Pomerania, I'd like to go back there (if I ever get Phoenix finished...). The SLRC weekend at Seven Sisters is a great punch hunt as well. We certainly had good fun there with Mouse (built for Ladoga).

Over here as well, and in all sectors. Construction is particularly notorious for it.

Definitely look at the glow plugs. Using easy start or similar can kill them pretty quickly. Are you sure the FIP is correctly timed?

Yes I would, 'cause now I only get a train ticket. 😉 I know I'd have a very hard time to get authorization to actually use one on the tracks, but it sure would look good when visiting railway projects!

I'd love one like that as a company car!

We've had another case of Nightbreakers blowing due to over-voltage caused by a failed regulator. They are pretty high strung to give that much light, so probably not as much margin as on a conventional bulb. Supposedly they don't last as long under normal use either, but I've yet had to replace one despite using them for many years in several vehicles.

I never said it was a good idea! 😉 Over here we regularly see medium sized vans (Traffic, Transit etc), typically FWD but with a low loader carrying a mini excavator or such in tow. That's easily 3ton or more if they've put other stuff on the trailer as well. Yet the vans are only rated at 2 or 2.5ton at best... A mate has one of those and found the 170hp engine could cope easily enough and the long wheelbase made it quite stable while towing, but he had to admit his old Range Rover (an unpowered P38 DSE automatic) feels a lot more solid when it matters. Before that he had a Navarra, that was a bad idea on so many levels, not just towing!

Apparently the new Transit is available in a 5ton version, with a 3.5ton trailer weight. That would give you 8.5ton. In practice, with a 3.5ton van + a 3.5ton trailer + a bit of overloading 8ton is not uncommon...

I saw a Lancaster with Spitfire escort do a fly by at Farnborough airshow about 25 years ago. Very impressive! Later that same day we also got a B1B with 2 F15s in a similar display. As was the STO of an empty C17 (just in front of us) and the Harrier 'dancing/hovering' above the runway. That was my first visit to UK, good times...

While making comparisons, a P38 at speed on Insa Special Tracks sounds like a Lancaster or other 4-prop bomber on fly-by. 🙂

Absolutely silent? (in space nobody can hear you scream...)

@Daan I think that is the XZL or O/R, the XCL is similar but in more of a V-shape: I agree the BFG is a different league. Years ago I drove a friend's 90 with O/Rs fitted in winter, and it was pretty hairy. My own 90 on BFG MT KM1 was a lot better. And seemed to beat the O/R for traction in the mud as well. On my Lightweight I have an old set of General SAGs, awesome in the mud but scary on road. Even on dry tarmac I can get all 4 to lock up... I understand wanting to keep a car as original as possible. I'm very difficult myself when it comes to buying tyres for my classic cars as I find most modern threads ugly and unsuitable. But on a car that's used regularly, it's probably wise to get over it and just fit a decent set of modern tyres (often a lot cheaper to).

The extra air valve is used mostly for cold starts and cold idle. If it's not there you might have to keep the revs up yourself to prevent stalling. Once a bit up to temperature it shouldn't matter. But it is possible the idle air bypass screw is set too low, not allowing enough air in to keep the engine running at idle. A bit strange that you say sometimes it does run fine.

You seem to have checked or changed all the likely culprits... My first call for rough running is always ignition, but you seem to have that covered. Only thing left I can think of is the MAF. If you can get hold of a known good one, try swapping it. If that cures it, hold on to it 'cause there hard to find these days! Good luck and keep us posted, Filip

We'll need a bit more info to be able to give accurate help. What year is your Classic? That will determine if it's on carbs, flapper or hotwire EFI. Did the problem occur all of a sudden or become worse over time? Anything recently changed or done? First thing to look at when a petrol engine is running poorly is ignition. The Rover V8 will tolerate a lot and continue running, but not as well as it should. You say you've gone through all the normal things, please elaborate. Did you check fuel, ignition, timing, compression, ... ? Filip

Have a closer look, I think you'll find the front prop is turning opposite to the rear prop/handbrake in this situation. This is because of the center diff and only possible when the diff lock is disengaged. Your other test confirms that when the diff lock is engaged, everything is locked so there is no rotation possible with the gearbox in gear.

We stayed in Dolgellau (no idea how you pronounce it...) when we visited Snowdonia. I especially liked the hike up to Cadair Idris. Glad you got it sorted and can enjoy the rest of your trip. 🙂 Filip

And on the P38 diesel automatic.

I feel for you, that looks awfully familiar... 😞

Yes, you need a third jumper to test the motor, from top red to either yellow or black and an additional 12V to the other one (+ earth on the bottom of course). Switching yellow and black around will change the direction the motor is running, those power the field windings.

We're running the same in the Range Rovers, very happy with it.

As promised: front 34cm min, 53.5cm max, rear 31cm min, 48.5cm max. Measured from the cup at the bottom of the shock body to the center of the top mounting hole.

Current from the starter motor needs to finds it's way to the battery, so all engines have a wire to the chassis (or battery) regardless of positive or negative earth. You can sometimes get away without a dedicated earth wire, if there is not too much resistance going through the engine mounts etc, but that's not a very good or reliable solution. Standard test is indeed to add a jumper cable as an earth wire to the engine. As this works, your starter motor should be fine but you need to add the earth wire. Running without one can/will cause a voltage drop and put extra load on the starter, which could lead to failure later on.

I was going to mention the EAS can be pretty picky on shocks, so it's important to get shocks with valving suitable for a P38. But if on coils, all bets are off and you'll have to find what works for yourself I fear. I will have a look at the lengths when I get to the Shop later today.

You can get a new core and reuse the housing (if no damage) to keep the cost down. What exactly failed? If the compressor wheel is damaged there is a very real risk of debris making it into the engine...