Escape

I'm still in doubt about the winchbumper. My previous one had a hidden winchcradle with the standard bumper shell over it, as per the pic in the very first post of this thread. I was very happy with that. But the one on Panzer is very nice as well, and a lot stronger. Combined with a similar rear bumper and knowing how rare a good set of bumpers is becoming, that might be the way forward. That would also make for some very nice group photos! On another note, I just did the first serious test run with my other P38. The one that ended up with water in cilinder 8 coming back from UK... A friend's D2 broke down while on holiday with the family. So we loaded his Defender onto the trailer, towed it just across the border in the Netherlands so he could continue his holiday and I came back with his D2 on the trailer. About 170 miles total, so not that long but more than I had already done since the rebuild and this time with a proper load instead of just going to and from the Shop. She behaved well, temperature never went above 90°C, plenty of power and a relaxed drive. A great way to start the weekend! Filip

By popular request, riding on her own air and starting to look like a car. I had to solder some corroded connectors (the ones in the footwells, of course) before the EAS would play ball and the right front is leaking a bit, but she did rise! As for tuning, the lambda is new, so I hope it hasn't seen any coolant and not too much oil yet. 😛 But the previous log was mainly idling or revving with little or no load, so not the best basis. If I fix the leak (not the oil leak in the picture, Ben already took care of that), we can take her for a longer and faster spin and see what that yields.

I actually noticed the calipers flexing while bleeding the brakes on Phoenix yesterday! Never felt that while driving though. I do agree with @Bowie69 they are a cost efficient solution that is more than adequate in most situations.

She's not on the bump stops, I added wooden blocks so she wouldn't look so sad. 😄 I'll sort the EAS this week. And post a picture. And I'll definitely take the offer of the wide band. Only problem is, we need to take it out of an Alpine R5 and the owner is in France for the rest of the month still. But we'll get there. 😉

And because if more clamping force is required (or desired), at a certain point a fixed caliper with pistons on both sides is more compact that a sliding caliper with the same total piston surface area. I'm not ditching the sliding ones, they're fine on the P38 as long as you keep the pins clean and greased. But I do prefer fixed, it just feels 'nicer' to have one or more pistons on both sides of the disc. I'm keen on symmetry. 😉

I can't believe it's been almost a month already since we got her running. In between stuff I soldered the wiring and tidied up some other bits and bobs. The clutch proved a bit problematic, a normal bleed didn't work, the pedal not returning. Reverse bleeding with a big syringe did result in a hard pedal. A very hard pedal, that needed a lot of force, then something seemed to free and it stayed down again. But could be pumped up and finally gave a good feel. Probably something that got stuck by sitting. Yesterday evening @elbekko came over and gave me a hand bleeding the brakes. After that nothing it was finally time for the first drive. After over 10 years! (5 sitting and 5 being rebuilt) Starting was difficult, I had to inject some petrol in the intake to get her to come to live again. At first very rough, but she pulled through. I fear the injectors are still not as they should be. I'll try running a bottle of cleaner but I'll probably pull them for testing/cleaning/replacement at some point. The drive was a success though. 😎 Tachometer working (my bad, I got the wires mixed up before), pulling very nicely and even idling without an IACV. The clutch was fine too. Too bad I didn't get 'round to the EAS, so it was very bumpy and we had to keep the speed low. And the Rhoads are very loud at idle... A lot to finish up, but with the misses out on holiday, I can spend even more time in the Workshop over the next week. Phoenix should be on the road by the end of this month. 🙂 Two more big things to do: enlarge the wheel wells to fit the 285/85 Baja Claws and rebuild the burned out Milemarker (plus build and fit a winch bumper and plumb in all the hydraulics). But I'm planning to use her before that, and get some tuning done. A mate promised me a wide-band lambda, that could prove very useful! Filip

@Retroanaconda I figured you knew what you were talking about, so it must be different setups for different versions/engines. As is often the case. The choice for sliding calipers must be cost indeed. In theory, you can get the same clamping force as long as you have sufficient room so the single pistons can have double the surface. Which clearly becomes a problem with the big brakes needed for heavy, powerful vehicles like a RR TDV8. As for service, you still need to remove the bit with the hoses attached to get to the disc, it's just a bit easier. But then you also have to remove the bracket, so 2 more bolts to undo/ refit. The only advantage being the parts are lighter so easier to handle and position. The main reason discs are so much easier to replace on later Landies (and most cars) is because they're bolted to the outside of the hub instead of the inside, so you don't have to undo the wheel bearings.

The front calipers seem fixed, not floating. At least on the 110 in the article. In theory floating calipers might be easier/ lighter, cheaper, but I agree they're usually more prone to sticking. Typically easy enough to free and clean up though.

I'm not sure the discs are actually floating. The rear caliper seems to be mounted on 2 sliding pins, just like most (all?) Land Rovers since the P38. And the fixed 4-pot calipers at the front wouldn't need a floating disc either. Maybe the author made an assumption because of the visible splines, but didn't actually check? I agree it would be a bad idea of road. I've had the least trouble with fixed calipers, like on an old Defender or RRC. The sliding pins on later ones seem more prone to sticking when used off road.

I believe there are different versions about, one that is vehicle specific, with the need to buy unlock codes for other models, and a (later?) one that was sold as 'pro' which would work on all compatible vehicles. A mate got one for his D3 many years ago. I don't think that worked on the P38, so must have been vehicle specific.

Most electrics can handle reverse polarity, it's only when electronics are involved it becomes a problem. Like the radio. Luckily most other stuff is not permanently live, not on a simple/older car anyway. The MegaSquirt is only powered when you switch on the ignition, by then the sparks would have told you something was wrong so you would have corrected it (like you did). Glad it was just a reminder and no harm done, we've all been there. 😉

But no doubt heavier than a standard Polaris.

What would be the advantage of something like that over a standard Suz? Tax maybe?

You never know, maybe my winch install will get completed sooner than yours and I'll be able to help you out for a change. 😉

Could it be a sensor giving a wrong signal? I remember a D2 with a similar problem, TC activating when driving off, until the error would come up. Disconnecting that one sensor made the car drivable until I could fit a new sensor.

Those stats are not as reliable as they seem. A lot of registrations are by dealers etc, forced on by the manufactures, not actual sales to the public. Over here, a large leasing company has recently acquired a huge parking lot and all but admitted it will be used to store new EVs because they can't find customers to shift them.

We had some running issues with a 3.5 I rebuilt for an RRC under restoration. We couldn't get it to run consistently on all 8, getting worse when up to temperature. We first tested the injectors ourselves, by putting 12V on each one in turn. 2 were obviously bad, the others seemed a bit inconsistent. I had them tested and cleaned, along with 2 spare ones, which confirmed 2 were beyond saving but also a few others that were leaking. We got a good set of 8 back and she ran sweetly with those. That was also in an engine that had been sitting for a few years. I hope the owner can finish the restoration soon enough, before they get a chance to clog up again. He has just found a place to work on it closer to home, so we're planning to move it there by the end of the month.

A huge thanks to @elbekko for all his help and for pushing me onwards when I lost motivation! And to all of you on here thinking along or just crossing their fingers. In short: as playing around with the fueling settings didn't seem to make much difference (worse if any), I took a step back and listed what was different from the trial run in the other Range. Fuel pump for one, so we checked the pressure (after cobbling together a gauge that would fit). Close enough, so there was definitely pressured fuel in the rail. That only left the injectors. Rather than take off the manifold to get to them, I decided to do what I would do with an engine on carbs and spray some petrol in the intake. And that obviously did the trick. Still a lot of finishing up to do, but at least now we know we're getting somewhere. 🙂 I'll probably take out the injectors when I tidy up the wiring loom and get them tested/cleaned, just to be sure. But first I want to drive her up and down the street!

The correct procedure is: engine running, in N or P, after going through all the gears and back (with a pause at each gear), at 30-40° (for the older ZF box anyway). Temperature is not that critical, but you do need the engine running and all the valves primed.

Just to be sure, you did have the engine running when checking the level? If not, there will more oil in the sump as it's not being pumped to the torque converter etc. To answer your question, yes, I have heard of overfilling causing excessive slip and potentially loss of drive. So fingers crossed it was an easy fix!

Not really, but hard to tell from just a few seconds running. And I don't wont to idle any longer because of the cam. We'll see if there's a difference if we increase fueling by a noticeable amount.

As with most if not all cars these days, it's all about the imagine and not about driving...

TPS is working, we got it calibrated, even bothered to switch the wires around to MS giving an error that the closed value was higher than the open one (though that shouldn't matter with proper calibration as far as we understand). I checked for air leaks, found one crankcase breather unattached and plugged the hole, but that made no difference. It doesn't smell rich, my guess is too lean as well, so it can't cope with anything but the smallest throttle opening. On the other hand, adding 10% to REQ_FUEL didn't seem to make a difference either. Neither did lowering it by 10%. Guess we could try +20%.

I'll let @elbekko give the details about the fiddling we did, as he's (obviously) the one behind the keyboard, I'm just the greasemonkey turning the key. 😉 Yes, I do need to run in the cam and I know this is not the way to do it. But it's only been a couple of starts of a few seconds each, so not too bad hopefully. I did try to get it to 2000rpm (though annoyingly the tach isn't working yet, so need to look at the display) and that's how we discovered she cuts out when touching the throttle. Best we got was just over 1000rpm and that was with terrible hunting. 😞 Turned off immediately of course.

Some more progress, but not as much as we hoped. We double checked the fuel pump, plugged some airleaks (crank ventilation for example), adjusted the throttle slightly open and after a few tries she finally came alive. She even kept running all by herself. Unfortunately, the moment you touch the throttle, she dies. It feels like fueling rather than ignition. We played around with the cold start setting and acceleration enrichment, made sure it was open loop to take the O2 sensor out of it, but no avail. And we compared live data with @elbekko's running P38. Timing and injector pulse width are very similar, so the base settings seem to be right. The mystery continues, but at least we're moving in the right direction.