Escape

So the panels weren't of much use, were they? 😁

Injector seals are a known cause of poor starting on a TD5, not expensive and not too hard to change.

I'd go for the biggest start battery that fits (and is reasonably priced). You'll pay more for a semi-traction and it will be less suited to the short but intense load when winching. Just don't run the start battery too low too often. 😉

As in the later P38: start the engine, go through the gears and with the engine running remove the filler plug. Oil should just pour out, if not add until it does. Not the easiest way and far from comfortable whether it's lying on your back or standing under a lift with a running car just above your head...

Seems there are 2 dampers, the one on the diffs everyone knows about (and that is not present on the front axle of either of the manual diesels I have in the Shop) and that was discussed in the posts above. And then the one on the autobox. I have seen those, come to think of it, but only rarely. I'll have another look tomorrow at the DSE auto driveline in the storage. 😉

According to https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/9.55819.56283.60723/brand/land-rover/ it was only fitted to the front axle on automatics but on all rear axles. I have a standard manual DSE in the Shop at the moment, I'll take a look to verify. I always thought they were fitted to all axles, regardless of engine/gearbox, and when it wasn't there I just assumed it had been removed by a previous owner or mechanic.

That definitely looks like a 300tdi, with the serpentine belt. A mix and match is quite common on (old) Land Rovers, so a different turbo is not a big surprise. You can be happy @iron_city, some previous owner upgraded your 90 from a TD to a 300Tdi. 😎

Even that temporary awning looks very well executed, better than a lot of off-the-shelf stuff. I'm sure whatever you come up with, will be in the same league as the rest of the trailer. 😉

You're right, they wouldn't fit the return at the bottom, they're more aimed at fittings like the feed line on top.

I found a cut open ring spanner typically loses too much strength, so doesn't work if you really need to tighten something. The crow foots are a good suggestions, I've been thinking about getting a set for some time. Something like this would be perfect: Advertised as sockets for injectors and oil pipes. 😉 I'd go for a 6-point and not a 12-point to reduce the risk of rounding the nut.

This! Anything up to the axles (say 1ft) doesn't really matter because a Defender will only displace the water in front of the tyres. It's only when the level reaches the bumper that you want to go deliberately slow. You don't want to make a splash, just a gentle bow wave as that creates a lower water level behind the bumper, so keeps the engine bay somewhat less flooded. On a paved road, there is no need to build speed, just steady progress will do. When traction is likely to be lost in off road crossings, it's a different story, but then you'll want a properly prepared vehicle so you don't need to worry about water getting everywhere.

FTFY 😉 Never thought I'd be calling a Defender modern, even if it is a TD5. On my classic cars, I can tell when the thermostat opens as the needle will drop a bit and then rise again and stabilise.

That's just lovely! I've always had a soft spot for the 6X6 Scammels with their walking beam tandem. Didn't Bill Van Snorkle have a similar 6X6 back in the day, based on a Series and also with walking beams?

It would take some planning from our side, but I'm definitely up for it! And I know a mate who's been talking about for some time as well.

Very true! I always try to be polite to the drivers and you can see some really appreciate a kind word in a no doubt very busy schedule. Like the lady (from DHL I think) that turned up around 19h and was very happy to find me still open, the only one in the industrial estate. That saved her a trip back next day. But being friendly only works if they take the trouble of actually delivering in person and not just throwing it out of the van.

I've used DPD a couple of times to collect a pallet from me (to send to UK) and that worked out fine. I booked through cheaprcargo.com and DPD came out cheapest I think. They're the ones causing the least trouble delivering stuff as well, unlike others that leave parcels out in the rain or even just throw them over the fence when you're not home. Guess you've had bad luck or possibly a lot depends on the local branch in question. I haven't needed to contact them, luckily, so can't comment on customer support.

Even if the relay clicks, doesn't mean it's getting enough current to the starter. As in the reply above. So definitely worth substituting for another one. It can't hurt to look at the connectors either of course.

Always nice when a problem has an easy fix. 🙂

When you tried the 12V straight to the starter, was that directly from the battery or from the ignition switch? If it wasn't from the switch, I'd suspect that. The contacts can burn to the point they wont even power the starter relay reliably.

I agree with @elbekko, our tri axle Ifor has served us very well for all kinds of jobs. Some points could be improved, such as the locks for the tilting bed (already upgraded those) and the addition of more lashing points and hooks. It's 16.5ft (5m), which means even a 130 can be loaded where you want it. Extra length is rarely a problem, but if the trailer is much wider than the towing vehicle that does mean extra care is needed on narrow roads. My previous trailer was 2.25m, this one is only 2m and that makes a big difference squeezing through traffic etc. And still plenty wide for cars or to fit 2 pallets side by side. It can tilt, but the bed does have reinforcement beams so localised loads are not really a problem. I was hesitant to chose a tri axle when buying it, but haven't regretted it. It only weighs 50kg more than the equivalent double axle and because of the smaller wheels the center of gravity is lower. I do need to replace the tyres soon, that will obviously cost more. I wouldn't be surprised if the price per tyre is higher as well, because the size is not as common. For maneuvering by hand I tend to use the tilt function, so it rides on 3 instead of 7 wheels. Loaded is a different proposition. The Range doesn't really mind but as above on uneven ground the turning point can vary a bit so you need to be on top of things if space is limited.

Knowing WD, I wouldn't be surprised if they used the later one sided nuts but put them on backwards to make it look original. Or they just didn't know any better. I don't rate them at all!

Nope, still can't see it. Maybe it's only visible for a specific group?

Thanks @Bowie69. It's been a year or so, I haven't heard from him since so I guess he found a solution.

I was looking for one for a first gen RRS last year, and none of the usual suspects could offer it. So he had to make do with his detachable one, don't know if he's still using it.