Escape

You're mistaking, that was 2011 I was referring to. 2009 was pretty hard on us...

If you can't find the cause and/ or fix it, a bit of info on replacing the entire BeCM, as I did just that a couple of months ago. Ideally you want to take a screen shot of all the settings before taking the old one out. The replacement one will only respond to the original keyfob, but you can change the blade and swap the fobs without needing to do any more coding. For the engine ECU, you need diagnostics that can relearn the security code. I found most of my time was spent getting the old one out because of access under the seat. Once the 'new' one was in, it worked straight away.

Sure, just don't ask me to define 'gentle'. 😈

Nice looking house Simon! Love how the cars/ garage seem to get priority in the design. 😁 As for my 2024 projects/ plans, unfortunately not much different than last year. But I did come back from my new years pilgrimage with a good dose of motivation. Somewhat in order: - finish the MS RRC of a mate/ customer, so he can either take her home or sell her; - finally get Phoenix the Range Rover running and driving, so I have a daily that can do playdays as well; - find and fix the ignition problems on the JPS Elan, so we can use it for more roadtrips; - find and fix the fueling issues on the Jag V12, for open top daily driving; - finally start in earnest on the Esprit. And I need to sell the Merc, as it's doing nothing but taking up space. Same with the RRS parts car. Once the Range is up and running, I should sell Tommy the Lightweight as well. Then, if we find time in between all the other work I don't know of yet, maybe try and get the TVR running again. And/or Wouter's Escort.

I've put down Broxhead in my agenda. Not complaining it's a bit closer to Dover and I remember having good fun there many years ago. I'm trying to get some friends to come along as well. Not sure if I'll be bringing Tommy, which means a trailer to complicate things, or just have gentle bimble with the Range as part of longer weekend UK.

If you get that much voltage drop between the alternator and the battery, you either have a poor connection causing excessive resistance or a very high current going into the battery. As above, 11.59V is too low, so the battery wasn't properly charged before or it is not holding charge.

Even I can't find much not to like! How can such a mash-up look so much better than most continuation models? How about a Freelander 1 and a Metro 6R4? 😎

Very small, barely larger than a pack of fags. I'll bring it along tomorrow, if no relay can be set up, I'll try and find a post office on Tuesday.

The only reason not to fit the biggest battery possible is price, as weight isn't an issue on a Land Rover. 😉 But do check the wiring to the battery and starter motor, including the earth strap to battery and engine. And make sure your alternator is actually charging and you get at least 13.5V at the battery with engine running. You don't want an existing problem to affect your new battery.

I will be bringing over some parts for @P38 Paul on Jan 1st. It's only a small box, so could pop in the post somewhere. But maybe someone will be at Mannington or nearby and could take it up to him?

Yes, that is a generic ZF pump, as also used on (some) Freelanders. But with subtle differences, like the position of the inlet and the flange for the pulley. Which can mean a lot of tinkering to get a FL one to fit a P38 while stranded in a French forest... But we managed (many thanks to my mate Wouter!) and it's still going strong today. 🙂

You wouldn't believe the Russian spam I got back when I was researching Ladoga. They often includes some nice pictures though. 😄

I'm considering popping over, but with the Excel after doing Brooklands first. I know how you feel about me taking a Lotus off road 😁, so would be looking for an empty passenger seat with someone. 😉

Happy holidays everyone and all the best for 2024! It was great meeting some of you in person at 7S (looking at you Stephen 😉 ), hopefully 2024 will bring more of the same. Filip

Many years ago, I saw a Dutch Landcruiser with a 5th wheel, I think they said it was a 5ton trailer, which would match the numbers above. Recently, we're increasingly seeing chassis-cab vans with a 5th wheel trailer. Some are clearly aimed at increasing the payload, usually low beds with mini diggers or similar. We also see some box trailers used by rental and moving companies. The big advantage over a light truck of the same capacity is that you get away with a BE license instead of of C or C1 (in EU). Often the trailer is coupled so closely it no longer articulates, so can be driven as a 3-axled rigid, meaning less hassle when reversing (for those who can't handle a trailer). Because there is a coupling and the tractor has its own registration, it is technically an articulated vehicle and not a rigid.

Are you using the original sender and gauge? If not, are you sure they are matched? Additional resistance in the wiring, for example due to a bad connection, will also cause a low reading. If you are sure the thermostat is opening, the temperature will be in the normal range and should show so on the gauge. You can use an external thermometer to check, or even better take out the sender and put it in a kettle with a thermometer to check the readings.

I've found the info on the TD5 in Rave (the Defender/P38/L322 version) very useful. But it is true it doesn't include a section on engine rebuild for the TD5, only for the 300Tdi and V8. Same problem in the D2 version.

Yes, anything you place in front of the radiator will have an effect on flow. If everything is in good order, that shouldn't be a problem though. Vehicles with aircon also have compromised air flow and when the aircon is running it will even heat the air before it reaches the engine radiator and intercooler. You could ask yourself why you need or want 4 big spotlights. There are plenty of (cheap) LED options that will give all the light you could ever want with a much smaller footprint.

Just imagine the drag if there was proper sized turbine on the roof! Poor tdi... As an aside, many moons ago at work we got a suggestion from a citizen to mount wind turbines on or in trains, to offset the power needed to run the trains. I tried to keep a straight face (and my calm) while trying to explain the fundamental laws of thermodynamics. Not sure if I got through to him, probably he just put it down as another government conspiracy. To make matter worse, I don't think my boss really grasped the principle of conservation of energy either...

So the panels weren't of much use, were they? 😁

Injector seals are a known cause of poor starting on a TD5, not expensive and not too hard to change.

I'd go for the biggest start battery that fits (and is reasonably priced). You'll pay more for a semi-traction and it will be less suited to the short but intense load when winching. Just don't run the start battery too low too often. 😉

As in the later P38: start the engine, go through the gears and with the engine running remove the filler plug. Oil should just pour out, if not add until it does. Not the easiest way and far from comfortable whether it's lying on your back or standing under a lift with a running car just above your head...

Seems there are 2 dampers, the one on the diffs everyone knows about (and that is not present on the front axle of either of the manual diesels I have in the Shop) and that was discussed in the posts above. And then the one on the autobox. I have seen those, come to think of it, but only rarely. I'll have another look tomorrow at the DSE auto driveline in the storage. 😉