Escape

Mileage is not important for me at all. Often a car with many miles has been taken better care of. To rack up the miles, you need a car that is reliable every time, so you're less likely to skip on maintenance/repairs. Garage queens that only come out 3 weekends a year on the other hand can be run a shoestring budget for many years as it 'doesn't really matter'. This is perhaps more relevant for older/classic cars, not so much the more recent Range Rovers and Disco's. But one could argue that after a certain mileage, most known problems are probably already addressed, like the known gearbox problems around 100k miles for the L322 TD6. Of course the price should reflect the mileage, as there will be more general wear & tear (worn seats, stone chips etc). Filip

I also saw it last week. A loss for us, as they did have great products and gave excellent service. But a retirement well deserved! I sent Peter a mail to wish him all the best and got the following reply I'd like to share:

I think you have that the wrong way around. When I drove the new Defender offroad, it made everything look effortless. In fact, I didn't like it because it didn't need much driver input, so wasn't engaging or rewarding to drive. But it is a very easy way to make sure you get where you need or want to be. If I had put my P38 (without TC) or a standard RRC/D1/Def in the same position crossing the ditch, it would have been properly stuck. And even with TC it would have required a good amount of throttle to pull through, the new Defender just drove out at idle, no drama at all. There is some merit to your comparision with Elise vs Focus ST. The first is a proper drivers' car, but like all Lotus needs a competent driver to be fast. Modern fast cars (the Nissan GTR springs to mind) just require a lead foot and pointing the steering wheel in roughly the right direction and the computers will work hard to get you there as fast as possible. Not my idea of fun, but no doubt very capable. Filip

We had another go at the brakes. Refitted the master, double checking that the booster pushrod was properly engaged. Then put on the nuts to the booster but only tightened by hand. Gave the pedal a (careful) try and with the second pump I got a nice and firm pedal. so that seemed to confirm the theory of the master being held forward. I tightened the nuts further, checking the pedal in between. All seemed fine even when fully tightened, much to my surprise. Then we did the bleeding, both with the Rovacom and manually following the sequence in Rave. Out for a testdrive and after a few applications the brakes are working properly. Even if the stroke seems a bit long before the brakes really bite. But that could be down to pads and discs needing to bed in again. We'll try an MOT after I've had a look at the oil leak that has appeared... Looks like it's from the ACE, which could explain the noisy pump as well. Thanks again for the help! Filip

As expected, didn't find much time (or motivation...) to take another look at the brake problem last week. I did take off the master and checked the booster outputrod. Nothing seemed out of place, no items trapped. I did notice the rod can be adjusted. As I know some work was done to the car, but no idea what exactly let alone to what standard, it is quite possible somebody had a go at adjusting it. And made things worse. The car came in with a very worn wheel bearing, that would of course have caused a delay in braking power, and could have let to overadjustement. @Pawl12 you wouldn't happen to know what the correct setting for the pushrod is? Otherwise I'll put the master back with a thin washer to the booster, so it sits a bit further. Just to see if that makes a difference, and easily reversed without having to mess with the adjustement. Filip

Don't forget the injector seals. And possible contamination in the wiring loom.

Thank you very much for the detailed description! Just the info we need to investigate further. I'll take the master off to check the booster output rod to make sure nothing is trapped. And then check the displaced volume with a syringe. I didn't realize the primary and secondary have a different stroke, that does make sense for the D2 layout. Will post our progress, but probably wont find the time tomorrow to look at it. Filip

David, I had/have the same problem. Not only here, but also on some other threads / forums. Always with FB links. The easy workaround is to right click and chose 'view image'. Only downside is you can't go back to the previous window (i.e. the thread) afterwards. Only thing I can think of that could cause this is because FireFox opens FB in a container tab. Filip

I've seen a few RRCs on 15" wheels, so it's definitely possible. I don't think the size of the brakes changed much over the years.

Hi Jack, If you need to tackle a lot of hills, smaller tyres will help. Even if it's only a few %. I find it hard to believe you got such a difference in economy just from wheel weights. Were the tyres fitted the same width and overall diameter? A lot of people forget that when going to bigger or smaller (diameter) tyres, the speedo reading is also affected, so the distance recorded will change. Also, I don't think on a slow and heavy 4x4 tyre weight will have much effect. Unless you'd go from a a hi-tech alloy wheel with a small roadtyre to a solid steel one with a massive knobbly tyre. 😉 A friend did some testing on his Lotus Exige V6, comparing stock wheels to track-spec light weight ones. There was some difference, but it was minimal. And not so much on outright speed/acceleration (fuel economy was obviously of no importance but would be similar), but a just noticeable effect on inertia when changing speed and direction. None of which is a priority for a Land Rover. Just chose whatever you like, it will be fine and you'll be happy 'cause you like it. 🙂 I can be very fussy about tyres myself, it can make life difficult sometimes. BTW, great pic of the airbourne P38! Care to share the story? I've had mine on just one wheel at the end of a steep slope offroading, but unfortunately no pics or vids... I was one of the few vehicles to make it up there though! And conveniently forgot I had a 400mile drive home when I floored it to prove a point... Filip

There's plenty of people running 35" with standard gearing, shouldn't be a problem. It's only a 10% difference to standard. I ran my 90 TD5 on 37", not as daily though. But it was fine, could even pull a trailer if need be. Comfortable motorway speed was not limited by the engine power (max speed in 4th, 5th just a long overdrive) but by stability due to the lift and tyres. At work we had a 110 TD5 on 35" that had to work for a living, never any problems, just keep it in in a lower gear with a heavy trailer if you need more torque at the wheels. And be a bit gentle when driving off. You will notice reduced engine braking on steep down slopes, nothing you can't solve by feathering the brakes but it might feel fast at first. Filip

Just to be clear, wheel size does not have a direct effect, only the tyres fitted. So yes, if you go from 265/75R16 (about 32") to 31x10.5-15 you will have a 3% difference. Or the other way if you go up to 33x10.5-15. 3% is not much anyway! It may be noticeable when driving off with a heavy trailer, but wont make much difference in normal use. As for fuel economy, that depends on a lot of things, like the state of the engine, usage, prefered cruising speed etc. At moderate speeds on the motorway the Tdi could prefer slightly lower revs so economy could suffer with smaller tyres. Which is why some fit an overdrive or (like myself) prefer a long 5th gear for cruising. Then there's also other stuff influenced by tyre size, like the ride height and aerodynamics. As long as you only go up or down one size, other factors will be more important, like the look you prefer or price and availability of tyres. Filip

The mastercylinder is new and didn't come in a blue box, so no real reason to doubt it. I agree it seems the likely suspect, but I find it strange the symptoms are exactly the same as with the old master. Only thing I can think of is it was pushed in too far and the seals got damaged while bleeding. Maybe related to the booster, though I don't think the booster pin can be adjusted as on some other cars. The primary circuit that seems at fault is the one closest to the booster. Wouldn't the secondary be more prone to damage when pushed too far? We checked the output circuits one by one with the other connected to the modulator, so not actually sealed off. Filip

The popular steel wheels like 8-spokes and modular are available in -8 or -10mm and are used frequently on Range Rovers. I used those on my Defender (in 16" but that wont make any difference apart from choice of tyres). So you should be fine. If you go for 33x10.5 you might have to look at clearance with the outer edge of the wheel arches on full compression, also depending on actual tyre width. I can certainly understand your desire to fit smaller rims instead of bigger as on so many moderns. 😉 Filip

This is all without ignition on, the basic hydraulic system, so the ECU is out of the loop. As far as I can tell, both shuttle valves are hydraulicaly operated from the master and the only connection to the ECU is via the shuttle valve switches to tell the brakes are on.

I hinted at the problems we're having with our Discovery 2, Dirty Daisy, in @Jon W for sale topic. As the replacement parts brought us no closer to a solution, it's time a start a thread to call on your collective knowledge. We got Daisy as a running project. When driving her home my mate discovered she had little or no brakes. I found a VERY worn wheel bearing that seems like a likely culprit. Bearing replaced, all calipers bled as per Rave, but no difference. We got little or no flow from the primary circuit (left front and right rear), secondary seemed fine. Working back we looked at the modulator and removed the pipes coming from the master. Good flow on the secondary but very limited on the primary. With a strong tendency to suck back the fluid, so you can't really 'pump up' the brakes. New master was ordered (not without difficulty as it was my first order post Brexit and nobody seemed to know just how to handle it!) and installed, but no difference. Still no strong flow in the primary circuit when disconnected from the modulator. And no flow coming out of the modulator left front and right rear. I then got a spare modulator from Jon. It arrived yesterday and was immediately installed, with fingers crossed. Again, no difference?! We first pumped the brakes with the modulator outputs disconnected to get it filled again, then bled the modulator and pump with Rovacom but still the pedal went to the bottom, unable to pump up. We bled the brakes again and while that improved pedal feel a bit (no longer going to the bottom but unable to pump up) we still only got flow from the secondary circuit. We're at wits end, there are no signs of leaks anywhere, master and modulator have been replaced with no effect, the only thing left is the brake booster. But I can't see how this could cause the problems. Happy to be corrected though! Greetz, Filip

yes, to replace the standard Borg Warner. Adding the shifter would then be another problem of course

25D would make it a 3.5 EFI auto 9.35, 1986 onward. Does that sound correct? Filip

That's possible on a 4-poster as well, handy when working on propshafts etc. And on a 2-poster you can turn everything without moving the vehicle, so shouldn't be an issue either. I agree a pit is easy for large/heavy vehicles, but then you'd also like a wider opening and that may be an issue for vehicles with a narrow track. We have to move the runways closer to safely get a classic Mini or Fiat 500 on. For a modern Range Rover or similar you'd want them spread as wide as possible for best access. A pit can only be a fixed size, so would have to be narrow to allow for small cars. Or for things like a forklift. Filip

Another vote for a lift. I've worked in a pit a couple of times and it felt like a dungeon. Granted, it was a small one, but some of the problems were more fundamental: with a low car you're always stooping, for a Land Rover you might need a step to be able to reach stuff. Little or no room to the sides, so no where easy to put your tools/parts and move around (exception to this is the workshop basements for maintenance of trains, where the rails are supported in the middle of a deepened floor section with room all around, pretty much like a 4-poster but without the need the actually lift the heavy weight of the train). Also not that cheap to build, if you want a proper job. Covering is often a problem and time consuming, creating a potentially dangerous situation when there is no vehicle over the pit. There was a time all I had available was a small pit, I hated it so much I didn't even consider one when we were rebuilding the Workshop. As for lifts, they can be had quite cheaply either from a budget brand (decent quality, ours was still going strong after 6 years regular use) or second hand from a garage or tyre fitter or such. A 4-poster is by far the easiest solution for maintenance and most work, just drive on and lift. A 2-poster needs more care positioning the vehicle and setting up, as well as a stronger foundation. But it does give better access for brakes and suspension work or on FWD cars. Filip

Pat has got the new site online: https://www.v8tuning.co.uk/ I wish her the best of luck, it wont be easy without Paul's vast technical knowledgde. If, like most on here, you know what you need/want, you're sure to get a good deal. 😉 Filip

For completeness, I've always been a happy customer at V8 Tuner and they did complete kits with cam, timing gear and all gaskets needed. After Paul's dead his wife Pat has continued the business to preserve his legacy, the new website is https://www.v8tuning.co.uk/ Filip

We never did look properly at adapting the LT230 to fit a P38...

I remember that, with a rather unusual drive layout.

We've used floor jacks under both axles to make positioning the chassis easier when lowering the body on the 2-poster. If it's like the P38, the bodymounts allow for some misalignement and will pull things straight when tightened.