Escape

25D would make it a 3.5 EFI auto 9.35, 1986 onward. Does that sound correct? Filip

That's possible on a 4-poster as well, handy when working on propshafts etc. And on a 2-poster you can turn everything without moving the vehicle, so shouldn't be an issue either. I agree a pit is easy for large/heavy vehicles, but then you'd also like a wider opening and that may be an issue for vehicles with a narrow track. We have to move the runways closer to safely get a classic Mini or Fiat 500 on. For a modern Range Rover or similar you'd want them spread as wide as possible for best access. A pit can only be a fixed size, so would have to be narrow to allow for small cars. Or for things like a forklift. Filip

Another vote for a lift. I've worked in a pit a couple of times and it felt like a dungeon. Granted, it was a small one, but some of the problems were more fundamental: with a low car you're always stooping, for a Land Rover you might need a step to be able to reach stuff. Little or no room to the sides, so no where easy to put your tools/parts and move around (exception to this is the workshop basements for maintenance of trains, where the rails are supported in the middle of a deepened floor section with room all around, pretty much like a 4-poster but without the need the actually lift the heavy weight of the train). Also not that cheap to build, if you want a proper job. Covering is often a problem and time consuming, creating a potentially dangerous situation when there is no vehicle over the pit. There was a time all I had available was a small pit, I hated it so much I didn't even consider one when we were rebuilding the Workshop. As for lifts, they can be had quite cheaply either from a budget brand (decent quality, ours was still going strong after 6 years regular use) or second hand from a garage or tyre fitter or such. A 4-poster is by far the easiest solution for maintenance and most work, just drive on and lift. A 2-poster needs more care positioning the vehicle and setting up, as well as a stronger foundation. But it does give better access for brakes and suspension work or on FWD cars. Filip

Pat has got the new site online: https://www.v8tuning.co.uk/ I wish her the best of luck, it wont be easy without Paul's vast technical knowledgde. If, like most on here, you know what you need/want, you're sure to get a good deal. 😉 Filip

For completeness, I've always been a happy customer at V8 Tuner and they did complete kits with cam, timing gear and all gaskets needed. After Paul's dead his wife Pat has continued the business to preserve his legacy, the new website is https://www.v8tuning.co.uk/ Filip

We never did look properly at adapting the LT230 to fit a P38...

I remember that, with a rather unusual drive layout.

We've used floor jacks under both axles to make positioning the chassis easier when lowering the body on the 2-poster. If it's like the P38, the bodymounts allow for some misalignement and will pull things straight when tightened.

That looks like the lovechild of a Volvo C303 and an Agrocat. WANT! 🙂

As above, check the fuel pump. Or go for the easiest possible fix first and add some injector cleaner. Could be enough if it's just crud somewhere. There is a secondary filter behind the fuel pressure regulator, but I haven't heard of one crudding up. Filip

Yeah, removing the timer relay is no different than having a fuse blow. The P38 is not as difficult as people think, it takes quite a lot before it throws a hard fault. I have a switch in mine to disable the EAS while driving, never gave an error. (for the record, the switch was installed at a time when I didn't have the means to do a proper fix but needed the car on the road and reliable). Filip

I stand corrected, @elbekko told me he was in fact able to program the lockers to be permanently on in the custom Terrain Response setting. That is a major advantage over previous systems and would cater for specific driving conditions or styles. Totally agree! It delivers to the intented market and I think sales are pretty good (given current circumstances).

Option 2 seems best to me, giving you the most options with the least complexity. With the engine running the VSR should be open, so you could switch on the fly without risk. But isn't the parallel option 1+2? 2 being a backup to run everything from the auxiliary battery should the main one fail. Or am I not getting the 4-way switch right? Filip

I don't remember finding that option during the testdrive. I know you can set the sensitivity to get them to lock sooner. But that involved faffing about on the touchscreen, so IMHO useless if you're actually driving off road. Give me an acutal button anytime, even if it's an electronic one to prevent the use in high range, at speed, whatever ... to deal with users running through life without the benefit of a clue. As above, I do agree it's a superior vehicle for getting from A to B, but again, I like driving not just being moved about. 😉 And yes, I know I am a dinosaur and don't expect the market to cater for my particular wishes, my kind will just go extinct (but not without a fight, keeping some classics alive as long as possible). Filip

The Terrain Response in the new Defender seems to be designed to operate in auto mode, and will cope with a lot you throw at it, offering better perfomance tractionwise than older LRs. So the average driver will get further with less effort. Ulike previous generations of TR where you had an easy to find, clearly marked button to select the different programs and could get quite some benefit from selecting the right one. I find the controls in the new Defender fiddly and complex to use. And don't get me started on the touchscreen, that just doesn't work unless you come to a complete stop (which you'd want to do from a safety point of view anyway). It seems to be mostly for show, it takes a lot of effort to get maybe a bit more performance, but it will surely impress the hi-tech brigade as you have a more expensive, more complex systems with more buttons to push. Never mind that you're not really controlling anything (like turning a locker on or off), just nudging the built-in programming one way or the other (and hoping it does what you expect). I like driving and find there is very little reward to be had with modern cars, be it on or off road. Despite higher speeds and better performance. Filip

Indeed, in the R380 4th is in essence a dog clutch between the input and output shaft and doesn't use the layshaft. Little or no stress on any bearings, just a rotation going through the entire gearbox to the transferbox. Start of gently, get it in 4th as soon as possible and stay there, you'll be fine! Filip

As I understand it, the D3 and later use a unibody structure that is essentially load bearing. But unlike most cars, this body sits on a separate chassis instead of having the wheels, engine etc bolted directly or via a subframe to the body. No idea what reasoning LR has to justify the extra weight... You could say it's evolution: from more or less independent bodywork on the Series (and Defender) over a more rigid body in the RRC/D1, further beefed up for the P38a and finally a full monocoque.

A body swap seems like a good plan and logical as it needs to come off to do the engine anyway. We did similar with 2 P38s last year. A few things to consider: - with the BCU in the body, you might run into trouble with the immobiliser. Unless you change the engine ECU as well, but I'd keep that with the engine if possible. As stated, the VIN will also be in the BCU. - are both cars the same year? Often the wiring has subtle differences over the years, leaving you with connectors that don't fit etc. - the body tag is easy enough to get off when the windscreen is out, putting it back on the other one shouldn't be hard either. Shouldn't be necessary, as a body swap is allowed. But it could avoid discussion of 2 different VINs on the same vehicle. We get an identifaction plaque on the slam panel as well, not sure about UK cars. - seems rather obvious, but are you sure the damage to the front end hasn't affected the chassis or mounting points? Seems like a nice project, and a (relatively) easy way to keep one car going and scrap the other one. Good luck! Filip

Only the RRC shape can make a fat shooting brake look this good. Interesting engineering for sure, but it's lost everything that makes a Range Rover a Range Rover. Off road ability to begin with! No pictures of the interior, I fear that too will be ruined with lots of bling and huge screens... A shame (but still better than the other soccer moms X6 or Cayenne).

Early versions of the Renault Espace and Pontiac TransSport required taking the engine out (from below) just to replace the spark plugs on the rear bank of the transverse V6. I know of someone who got rid of his Pontiac because of a misfire running on LPG and the cost just to check/replace the spark plugs... As above, at least LR designed it so the body off isn't too bad. Even on the P38 it's not too much work. Ross, having done some work on a D3 TDV6, I tip my hat to you if you've managed to change a turbo with the engine in the car. I could hardly were the turbo was hiding! Filip

Tough luck. 😞 But should be a cheap fix, just a piece of thick copper wire to replace.

We swapped the engine on a Disco3 some years ago without removing the body, that wasn't too bad. And that's basically the same car as the L320 Range Rover Sport. Not tried it on the L322 full fat Range Rover, but from working on it it seems doable with the body on. By the time you have A-post and suitable support you'll have done a lot of work and would have probably gotten to the engine anyway. Alternatively, why not get a (cheap) 2-poster for the job, and then sell it on? If you have the room for one that is. Filip

I do hope when you say 'completely empty' you mean no oil on the dipstick, which means about 1l under minimum level or 2l to top up. Running it completely empty is almost guarantueed to cause damage. 😞 Always check if a car has been sitting for some time... And replacing if over a year old, engines like fresh oil. I hope it's just a case of the leak getting worse while sitting. If it's a the front the pressure valve at the oilpump is a know cause of severe leaking. Filip

That's why I was looking for a convertible. 😉 Going to collect tomorrow. Filip

I didn't know MOD kept using the 2.5NA. See, on this site I learn something. 🙂 If that's the case, maybe the author made the same faulty assumption I did, that a 1990 Defender would be a turbodiesel. Still not really an excuse, he should have spotted it in the pictures. Even if he didn't actually got to see the car, covid and all that.