Escape

What did you do to fix it? Bad connection somewhere?

I can confirm, the later covers have the oil feed directly to the bottom of the pump. And the camshaft is shorter, it just reaches the sprocket with no 'nose' for the dizzy drive gear.

I find the Bilsteins too hard on the Range Rover on anything but good roads. But might be just what you're looking for on a lifted Defender for road use, to reduce sway.

That's indeed correct! David, if we ever meet, you've earned yourself a Belgian beer. 🍺 Ben helped me design it, many moons ago, so he wasn't allowed to guess on here. 🙂 I've had a few ECU's fail and as the ones for the manual are harder to find, I decided it would be nice to just build a simplified control box. Tested in a car today and everything works, including the messages on the dash. Only problem is the non-latching switch in the manual cars, but that's easy enough to replace. I'll be using a bunch of Carlings instead of the original switches anyway. I still need to add something to select neutral as well but haven't decided on using an extra switch instead of faffing about with fuse 11 (as standard). As for fuses, the relays and cables should be able to handle the fused 30A without any worry. I could always replace it with a 20A fuse, just to be safe. The problem in the early ECUs was the prolonged high current through the power transistor if the motor stuck. With limited cooling they soon gave up. The relays wont have this problem. Now, on to the HEVAC... Greetz, Filip

@Elbekko would like that, a simple controller for the HEVAC! Temperature should be easy, just a mom-off-mom Carling switch to control the blend motors. You could do the same for the distribution, but you'd not have the info about the actual position selected. Might just give it a try. 🙂 That would be several small plugs, not the one big black one in the picture. This thread was meant as a little fun, now I'm ending up with ideas for yet more work. 😄 As long as we get some laughs out it. 😉 Filip

Do the intermediate serp covers have the oil pump on the crank, instead of on the dizzy drive? Never knew that.

You got it! After all, you only need wipers and lights right, everything else is just added weight. 🤣 If only I could... It's something a lot more basic (and unnecessarily complicated in the P38), but I'm still proud of it. An EAS replacement would be nice (I've seen 2 driveblocks fail on customers cars recently), but to read the height sensors would require something more complicated than a relay, and that's beyond me to design/fab. Alarm/central locking is a good call as well, as it's basically a simple system with just a few microswitches. But incorporated in the BECM, so possibly a can of worms once you start tinkering. Anyway, not much left now, is there? 🙂

Getting very close. 🙂 Obviously a P38, it's for my project (the one sitting on the lift for the past year or so...). But not the gearbox, it will be a manual. And I think 3 relais wouldn't cut it to give decent control over the autobox. But an interesting idea! This controller is to replace an ECU that's more prone to failure than the one for the autobox, especially on early cars. @Simon_CSK that's not sad at all, it just shows how knowledgeable we are about these cars. 😉 Which is also why forums like this are so helpful, those in the know often only need a reasonably accurate description of an issue to be able to identify the cause and a possible solution. Filip

Not the engine, though that is a very similar plug. The engine side will be handled by MS, with the usual D37 plug. There's another ECU that can be replaced by just a few relays.

Which ECU? There's quite a few of those. 🙂

Can anyone guess what this little bit of electrickery does? I'd worked out the schematics years ago, the lockdown meant I finally had time to put the prototype through the test. Took a bit of time, but in the end it works as expected. 🙂 Filip

Those symptoms are indeed typical of low voltage. Normally, all faults should clear when the cause is fixed. But as you've driven the car, it's possible the EAS and ABS have gone into hard fault. Best to get the codes read and reset and try again. Have you tried the car since? Worth a try to disconnect the battery, give it a proper charge and then reconnect everything. Filip

The higher torque at lower revs is indeed due to the longer intake runners. At the cost of a very little bit of top end power. The Bosch sequential injection was for emission purposes, to comply with Euro3 and similar.

That's the one I meant. Couldn't find a part number either, but the part definitely exists.

The wires are all white from C0789 (or C806 on <99 cars) on, as those are accessible from the outside (in the loom between the body and tailgate) and could pose a security risk. The other connector, coming from the right body harness, is color coded. 😉

The wire diagrams are in RAVE, that's the easy part. But both the Disco 2 and P38 Thot use an immobiliser. The BCU or BECM has to provide the correct signal to get the engine ECU to start working. There are kits to bypass the security, but might be cheaper to just fit a MegaSquirt, especially if you don't have an ECU, loom and all sensors to go with the engine. Also worth noting the Bosch injectors operate at higher pressure (3.5 bar) compared to older LR EFI systems (2.5 bar). Filip

If it's leaking at the connection, a new O ring can only help. Maybe at some Loctite 577 or similar to fill (small) kinks. Or even liquid gasket. I wouldn't trust tape, I can't even get it to seal on water pipes half of the time (but that's probably just me 🙂 ).

The motors have a rotational potentiometer in the gearbox, so the system should be able to work out the position of the flaps. You can force a calibration cycle with diagnostics, sometimes that's enough to get them going again.

It looks very similar to one of the covers for the clutch housing for the P38 diesel (also a BMW engine). Look around the housing, both engine and gearbox side, for a hole it could fit into. Filip

There are a few P38a's being stripped at the moment. Maybe ask @Simon_CSK or @Ed Poore if they have some left.

Confirmed, the valley gasket was never actually changed, just superseded with newer versions (maybe different materials or such). As far as I know, they're all interchangeable, the bolt pattern, water passages etc never changed. Filip

In that case, wouldn't it be easier to put a switch in the feed to the control buttons? Less items in the 12V feed to the winch means less chance of resistance losses. Filip

I know of a few swaps from D2 ot P38 without issues, the basic engine is the same. Belt routing is different on the D2 because of the (optional) ACE pump. Gaskets should all be the same. Some suppliers offer a complete engine gasket kit, so you don't need to research every single gasket and seal. Often at a good price to. Too bad V8tuner is no longer in business. 😞 The P38 never had a manual option for the Thor V8, but the bellhousing and clutch on the earlies ones is indeed a completely different design compared to other Land Rovers with the R380. Filip

The 2 rolling chassis are just out of view. I plan to take the axles off today and get everything weighed in next week.

Brave man! It really is a pig of a job, hope it goes back together OK. But now you have all the access you need to do a proper job. Filip