Escape

That's not really accurate. LR was doing OK in the 90s, but suffered from the problems faced by British Leyland/ Rover Group as a whole. BMW never had any interest in Land Rover, they wanted the Mini brand and some 4x4 technology to get their X-range launched. It's no secret they did little good for Land Rover... Ford got the company straight again. But they made a poor decision when in need of cash for their core business when the crisis hit to sell Land Rover along with Jaguar, Aston Martin and Volvo. All brands that have done better than Ford themselves.

Just to add, in Bhellgium there's no permanent live in the 7-pin connector either, as that pin is used for the mandatory rear fog light, just like in UK. If you don't want to take out the seat (which I can fully understand!) to charge, can't you reach a permanent 12V under the bonnet? Like the alternator or a relay? I use that to connect the charger to the Elan and Excel, as it's easier than getting to the battery in the trunk. Filip

It sounds like some relays were wired incorrectly, possibly the starter relay as well. If the chatter is enough to engage the starter, that will create a large start current, enough to cause a voltage drop. So you should be looking at the starter relay, not the alternator. Quick test is to remove the starter relay (after starting) and then measure battery voltage. As Fridge says, it could be the earth, with a bad earth from another relay or accessory causing a stray current through the starter relay. Filip

Max, hadn't noticed you're also from bhellgium. Unfortunately, that means you're very limited to what can legally be changed on your car. Unless you want to go through a helluva lot of red tape... So no disc brakes and no engine swap. Although a 200 or 300Tdi would probably pass scrutiny. As said above, a good service to make sure everything is at least up to spec should be first on your list. If you're not too far away, you're always welcome to come to our Workshop near Leuven for a chat and to have a look at Chulla. Greetz, Filip

Yours is a diesel, right? Then I'd look at the breather/oil separator between valve cover and intake hose. If that's blocked, you're likely to get a bit more splashing. Or you just need a new seal on the cap.

I don't think this was posted here yet. I'd say it's pretty much bang on the money, and echoes/counters a lot of what has been said here: https://www.evo.co.uk/opinion/22767/it-s-time-everyone-woke-up-to-the-fact-that-the-new-land-rover-defender-needs-to?amp

That all sounds terribly complicated! It's a good thing the new Defender comes with an autobox and you only need to play around with a touchscreen if you feel the need, and the electrickery will magically do everything for you! Just kidding Max, you'll soon figure it out once you're driving and it wil become second nature. Enjoy you car (and maybe add some more pictures, so we know what we're talking about). Filip

We also have an annual MOT for trailers over 750kg MTM. Doesn't seem to do much for the dodgy electrics though...

It doesn't look too bad. I'll probably hate the interior for being to modern. But it might very well turn out to be one of the few new cars I'd actually consider (most of them would just have me buying a train ticket...). Filip

We'll take another look at the MAF. The readings are normal, including when it's in limp moden after starting (ca50kg/hr at 700rpm). Disconnecting the MAF didn't make a difference either (to the running/starting that is, obviously the readings did change), but if it's in the wiring, that is to be expected. Filip

It's not just the UK, electric trailer brakes are not legal in most of Europe. Seeing the poor state of most trailer electrics, that does make some sense...

@Griff, good tip, I'll have a look there. The car has since been to another independant LR mechanic, but he couldn't find anything wrong either... Filip

I agree, n° 6 is a bit low. But unless you're having driveability issues or overheating, I'd leave it alone. Not the easiest engine to work on, and with the filler cap installed the crank ventilaton will take care of any smoke. Maybe do an oil change if you haven't done so recently. Filip

Just to be sure, you do have the plastic intake duct that goes across the engine block from the filter to the turbor? There should be a short hose from th valve cover to this intake. Where is the smoke coming from? Exhaust or under bonnet? Filip

You need cut the SU wire (grey with a blu stripe) from the temperature sensor to the ECM and splice in the timer so it adds a resistor for the first 30sec and then returns the standard connection so the ECM sees the correct temperature when running. So the common terminal to the ECM, the NC terminal directly to the sensor and the NO terminal via a resistor to the ECT. Trigger the timer with an ignition live wire, preferably RW from the main engine control relay so it starts when you turn the key to position 2 (the one that also activates the glow plugs). And add an earth. Diagram of the standard wiring for clarity, even better would be for you or your electrician to download RAVE. Filip Diesel ECT.pdf

As above, start with checking tyre pressure if you haven't already. The tyre place likely just put some reference pressure in, might not be suitable for towing.

When removind the EGR, I always remove the cooler as well (when present). As you say, just join the water pipes. But be careful, they can be brittle and break. You can also unplug and remove the vacuum valves etc, adding more lightness. Filip

Did a few more checks, unfortunatley still haven't solved the problem. - we put in a pedal from another D2, made no difference - replaced the fuel pressure regulator. It was sweating a bit, but not leaking. As it was the last part in the fuel system we hadn't replaced, it was worth a shot. Car started easily after bleeding, all seemd well. Then on the next attempt, easy start but back to limp mode for about a minute before it would respond to throttle. - an experienced (now retired) LR mechanic had a look, checked all my work, could find nothing wrong and is also at a loss... Filip

Good work Simon! As you say, once you feel the car wanting to move, oil is getting where it needs to be, mainly the torque converter. One thing I would do differently compared to the list above, is remove the filler plug first. That way you're sure it can be removed (they can be pretty stuck on if not removed for some time), and it will give you a more steady flow when draining. I also think it doesn't matterif the gearbox isn't cold when draining, just be careful with hot oil spilling (just like you would when draining the engine). Letting it sit overnight definitely helps, 7 to 8 litres is what I usually get out. Filip

This very system was used in an prototype, 50s US, with the spare wheel at the end of the boot. It did work, but was too complicated and thus too expensive to put into production. And now every car has sensors and/or cameras and most high end cars can park themselves, so little point in revisiting the technology. Appearantly the technology dates back to the 1930s, but was only patented in the 50s. Also, with a Defender you can always make the parking space a bit bigger by moving the cars in front and behind. 😈 Filip

Have to tried syncing the remotes? You put the key in the door and lock (or unlock) while pressing the corresponding button on the remote. That should mate the code transmited to the alarm. Also, make sure you have the EKA (emergency access code) when using just the key. Should the alarm be triggered, you wont be able to start the engine with just the key. Filip

You can get a 12V timer relay at most electrickery shops. This one would do: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/adjustable-delay-timer-relay-delay-on-or-off-12v-10a.html Then you only need a resistor (around 500ohm if I remember) and some wiring. I wold be wary to buy a black box from Ebay or such, unless you get a schematic and can verify what's inside (i.e. not just a resistor). Filip

The ABS/TC error is likely due to a sensor. Get the codes read and you'll know a lot more. The poor hot starting is typical for the BMW-lump once they get older. They were set up too lean for emissions, so when parts start to wear and the timing isn't perfect anymore (due to the chain stretching), there's not enough left to ensure they always start. The problem isn't the glow plugs, it's the fueling. There is an easy fix: you add a timer relay wth an additional resistor to the engine coolant sensor, so the ECU sees a lower temperature and will richen the fueling to start. The timer is important to make sure after 30 sec or so the ECU sees the correct temperature and doesn't continue running rich. A lot of the cheap hot start fixes are just a resistor or only make the glow plugs come on. Filip

I can understand you want the gauge to read exactly right, but with the values above I'd say you're more than close enough. Especially considering the gauge has been opened and the faces swapped.

I agree with above, capillary gauges tend to be more accurate. But it all depends on calibration, so as long as you know the gauge you're looking at, you can interpret the reading. Why do you doubt the accuracy? If there really is a leak, I'd expect the mist to quickly build up with use .An electrical one, while easier to calibrate, is susceptible to bad connections and voltage fluctuations and bound to give a different absolute reading, without necessarily being more accurate. As an aside, in my Lotus Excel the oil pressure gauge needs to be mounted exactly right, or it will not return to 0 with engine off, or alternately harldy move with running engine. It's also a Smiths, I set it to get a reasonable reading and am happy to use it as a relative indication and not an absolute reading. Filip