Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Shires for me hands down. By far the friendliest and most active club inthe area IMHO.
AWDC arent bad either, but dont hold as many local events as they're a national club. AWDC events do unfortunately have a habit of attracting the pikey/knobhead element driving a non-road legal shed brigade.
I have been a member of HBRO in the past, but am no longer, due to the fact that all they ever seem to put on is RTV's and if you're not ARC legal then there isnt an awful lot else to interest you. They do the odd play day, but you tend to get agro for going "off piste" etc. If you're ARC legal, and like RTV trials then HBRO are definately the club for you.
Shires and AWDC play days tend to be go where you like, do what you like.......
I personally cant stand trials - they bore me to tears!
It depends what you want to do really!
Jon
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I had a V8 in my series a while back. It transformed it when compared to the old 2.25 petrol.
However I now run a 200tdi, and have to say that had tdi's been cheaper when I fitted the V8 into mine thats the route I'd have gone.
Tdi bolts in with minimal fuss really and work well.
I found the V8 ate gearboxes, hated water and the fuel consumption was trully appauling! I reckon i was getting 12-14 mpg at best and less off road. The Tdi is very nearly as quick but the consumption is heaps better. Plus the V8 never really ran cool enough, where the TDi if anything i struggle to get hot enough!
Jon
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Eek!
Seems a small world to have another off roader with a highly
modified truck living opposite you
Scaryer still is the fact that they're both painted battleship grey, and they're both called Nigel!
Jon
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USb to serial converters are fecking awful things that only ever work when they feel like it! Suggest aquiring another PC that has a proper serial port!
When I sorted the EAS out on my classic I just shoved the desktop Pc on the passenegr seat!
Jon
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The search button is your friend. Reversing rims has been covered on here a number of times.
Jon
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defender column fits with minimal modification and mostly uses existing bolt holes in the bulkhead.
Jon
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Waste of time putting 10 spline uprated shafts in in my opinion when 24's are available off the shelf. You need to also think about uprating diffs as well as I've blown soooooooooooo many diffs up over the years! 24 spline diffs are available easily, so why re-invent the wheel? If you're current diffs arent compatible then sell them on, and get hold of some that are.
I'm now running pegged KAM 4.75 R+P's with ARB's front and rear. Rear shafts are Kam ones, and front ones are standard late series. However I've experimented with front shafts, and the long front one is one that I made up a while back.
Jon
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I'm insured agreed value with flux aswell.
Jon
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You'll be lucky to find anyone thats got that one the shelf! I cant see a part number for it on EPC, which means its probably not got a landrover part number. If not then you'll have to track down a Lucas dealer.
As TD's are old hat and not well liked, few independant places would keep the parts on the shelf.
Jon
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Sell the truckcab, buy a hardtop and then mount the spare wheel on the back door
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Well to actually reply to Si's origional question i can offer the following info which has happened to both my truck, and my mates who lived nextdoor.
In both cases access was gained by cutting the rubber seal around the small window to the left of the rear door and the glass was then removed allowing a hand to be passed to the inside to unlock the back door from the inside.
Mine was also broken into by literally forcing the front doors open, as its not possible to open a series rear door from the inside.
In both cases they attempted to steal the vehicle and we found steer shrouds etc broken and wiring ripped apart. Both thefts were foiled as both vehicels were well immobilised, with simple things like rotor arms removed, wiring to coils, fuel pumps etc left disconnected, and battery isolators removed. We were aware that there was a problem in the area, so the trucks were never left in an "operational" state.
I've now moved house so dont have the problem any more. My mate has bought a sodding great wheel clamp and now leaves his truck wheel clamped which so far as solved the problem.
HTH
Jon
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Give me your email address and I'll mail you over some photos of one bolted into a swb series.
Whereabouts are you in hampshire? You'd be welcome to come and have a look at mine if it helps!
Jon
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Be aware you need ones from a 4cylinder, as ones from a V8 with an LT85 gearbox are different! I discovered this to my cost!
Jon
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As mentioned earlier - you need defender mounts, but you will have to modify the NS one.
Jon
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Yes the one the series gearbox is bolted to. I just chopped it out and got rid of it as the LT230 mounts bolt direct tot he chassis rails.
Jon
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I chopped the series gearbox crossmember out aswell.
I bolted the gearbox mounts to the box, and used a trolley jack to raise the rear end until the rear propshaft flange was vertical, and marked the holes for the mounts on the chassis rails, removed the box again and drilled and welded in tubes.
IIRC I had to chop the bottom off of one of the mounts and re-drill the lowest holes further up as it hang below the chassis rail on my 88".
Jon
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Kam diffs used to do 24 spline ones for a series. Dont know if they still do.
I've been running them in my 88" for years and havnt broken one yet.
Jon
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I used defemder ones and drilled and tubed the chassis rails. I used standard series engine mounts which bolted straight up to the 200tdi.
Jon
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If the warning lights are staying on then its gone into hard fault mode and will not re-set without a reset via the daignostics.
Its either a trip to your local independant specialists, or you can do it your self if you're confident with a laptop and a soldering iron. Search on google for EAS unlocker and you can do it yourself. However if you're not confident with what you're doing I'd suggest paying someone to sort it for you.
Jon
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Classics from about F reg onwards had heated nozzles as standard. Classic SE's had heated screens as standard.
No heated nozzles listed on EPC as fitting a P38.
Jon
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If the reservoir is empty, and especially if the compressor is a bit tired, it can take 5-10 minutes running to fully pump the reservoir up to pressure. Have you checked you're letting it run for long enough?
Have you got any warning lights showing?
Have you also checked that the inhibit switch under the drivers seat hasnt accidentally been switched?
Jon
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Well I can only comment on the above related to my own personal experiences.
I've had no issues with wheel bearings whatsoever. I've been running these rims for 5 years now and havnt changed a bear in that time. However my truck probably only does about 1000 miles a year. At the end of the day series wheel bearings are cheap and easy to change, and taper rollers aswell so I dont find it makes much difference.
Steering wise nothing got "screwed up" as such, however I did eventually admit defeat and fitted power steering from a defender. The extra offset and wide tyres makes the steering very heavy when manouvering. It was fine on road, but became a pain off road whilst trying to manouver for punches at challenges etc. Franjly I should have fitted PAS years ago as it totally transforms the truck and the steering is much more precise.
As to wheels, if you change to 15" ones, then off the shelf 10x15's have the offset you are looking for. You'll have to change tyres obviously. Tonk ran these on his truck and they took the outside edges of the tyres flush with the edge of the defender arches. If you want to stick to 16" tyres you'll need to modify wheels.
Jon
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The search button is your friend. Reversing rims has been covered on here several times.
You cannot buy them like that. You have to modify them. You may get lucky and find a set at an autojumble etc.
You may be able to buy customer made rims in whatever offset you want but they'll be expensive!
How much offset do you want and what look are you trying to achieve? Standard off the shelf 8 spokes will take the tyres approximately flush with the outside edge of standard series wings for example.
Jon
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Shove the box back in. Reconnect rear propshaft. With the handbrake on and the box in gear it'll lock up allowing you to tighten the nut. Alternately just do it up with the rattle gun as the torque on this nut isnt too critical.
Jon
New rear prop ! I have a couple of questions ??
in Series Forum
Posted
Throw the rubber boot away. Horrible hateful things. They only fill up with mud and mud and grease mixed together form an excellent grinding paste. Just keep greasing it regularly.
Yes you should grease new U/j's when fitting.
Jon