Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Yep - thats it - theres one bolt that holds the mount on that is a bit of a piggy to get to - you need a long ring spanner IIRC.
Jon
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Declare EVERYTHING. Better still get agreed value on it and send them photos of the truck. It makes sod all difference to the premium and is added piece of mind that should the worst happen they're not going to argue with you, or potentially void your insurance which then leaves you open to criminal proceedings.
I pay more or less the same for my truck now, owning up to everything, agreed value etc as I did when I first insured the truck as bog standard.
Jon
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VC can easily be changed in situ. Getting to one or two of the bolts is a little interesting but its easy enough.
You need to unbolt the O/S gearbox mount, and supprt the trans with a jack so you can completely remove the mount. Remove front propshaft.
Drain transfer box oil.
Undo the ring of bolts around the front housing and remove the front housing complete. Note that there is no gasket it is stuck on with silicone so it may require some persuasion to get it off.
You then can swap the viscous on the workbench. Alternately if you've got the front housing compelte then just swap it over and re-fit.
Not too bad a job to be honest.
Jon
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Dont buy em. They're nothing but trouble, and constantly casue the U bolts to work loose. A much better solution is to grind the spring sets on the axle tubes to correct the castor.
Jon
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:-) D'oh!!!!
Jon
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Best way is to grind the sping pads on the front axle to correct the castor angle.
You need to cut a scallop out of the crossmember and then weld in plates to close the holes off to clear the propshaft.
Jon
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Correct the castor on the front axle will help alot, but you'll also be needing to scallop the crossmember for clearance.
You'll probbaly find the slider on the standard front prop is too short. A high angle uj may help.
Jon
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Front prop will casue all sorts of fun and games, what with lack of clearance and u/j's binding.
You also need to check your front brake hoses are long enough.
Jon
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Bear in mind there are 3 or 4 different ones available depending on what the serial numbers etc of the boxes are.
Jon
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Rob,
You need to change the master cylinder for a 110 one as they're biased more towards the front which will solve your problem. The series dual cicuit one is split 50/50, where the 110 one is 60/40 (ish cant remember exactly) which will solve this problem.
I'm running disks all round on my 88" and with the series master find its about right. Running my own home made disk conversion on the front and range rover based rears.
The zeus disk brake kit is horrible. Tonk bought one and sent it back to them and then we made out own. The heystee/TI console one isnt much better either!
Sliding calipers on an off roader is a disaster IMHO as they just jam up having filled up with mud!
Jon
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I would add that with parabolics on an otherwise standard unmodified 88" there is insufficient clearance for the front prop against the crossmember anyway. You need to scallop it out.
Jon
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Bear in mind you cant move the engine forward by very much at all or else the front axle/diff will coult the bottom pulley of the engine on full bump!
Props are easier to mod - rear is just a shorten it job. Its the front that is the fun one. I'm running Lt77 and LT230 in an 88" and could go back to the series front if requried. I run the defender front cos I prefer the look however.
Bear in mind that at speed rear mounted rads cause all sorts of fun and games with cooling as the airflow does strange things. Mate of mine has had terrible trouble with his safari racer with a rear mounted rad for this very reason!
Jon
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Correct - ashcroft does a kit to allow you to bolt the series transfer box to the LT77. However the LT77 is longer than the series box so you still end up having to mess about with propshaft lengths to get it all to fit.
I made my own conversion to do this years ago (the ashcroft one was unavailable then). However for the agro involved I think the LT230 is a better conversion. I put an LT230 in mine last year and just run in permanet 4wd. I dont do a lot of miles in mine so can put up with the kick back in the steering on full lock on the road.
Jon
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I just used rangie rear hubs and standard rangie rear disks and calipers. I used the 110 salisbury caliper mounting brackets (had to machine them slightly IIRC).
Drum braked 90 rear stub axles and "thick flange" 24 spline outer drive flanges and it more or less became a bolt on job. I did a detailed post on it many many moons ago. Might even have been on the old forum.........
Dont forget with disks all round you'll need a bigger servo - i used an early 110 on complete with pedal box as the series servo still required both feet on the pedal to get it to stop!
Jon
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Well I dunno about salisburys, but I've done it on a rover rear axle.
I used range rover stubs and hubs etc and the 24 spline coiler drive flanges fitted the series 24 spline outer shaft ends. Cant see why the same couldnt be done with coiler bits versus drum dits on a salisbury axle either.
The only real agro you might have is with lengths of half shafts but as I said - I cant see why it wont work cos it does on a rover axle!
Jon
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Its a sight easier just to replace the starter IMHO.
They're usually totally knackered anyway and the bendix is all rusty etc etc.
Jon
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I used the standard disco one and made a bracket to bolt it to the drivers side inner wing. I am running a defedner front end on mine however so there is a bit more room!
Jon
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Yes they are the same.
Tranfer boxes are interchangeable, but are different lengths so take care to ensure your propshafts still fit!
Jon
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YEs its Diyable. These boxes arent hard to rebuild - just get yourself a manual.
I've done loads of them.........
Parts are available individually from good landrover parts places, but watch the qulaity as many aftermarket parts are made out of chocloate!
Also check which suffix your box is as some parts are hard to come by for the suffix D boxes especially. Also the parts book in a number of instances is wrong!
I wouldnt bother with a "rebuild kit" I'd just change what is broken and needs fixing. I say again though watch the quality of the parts!
Jon
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I'm a bit patchy on my inane trivia, but I'm pretty sure the Agri Rover didn't have normal Rover axles. It'd never pull the gearing for starters. The later Ag-Rovers (Defenders) had MD Portals.
Correct - i had a poke round the one thats in the yard down at dunsfold the other day, and it most certainly did NOT have rover axles on it!
Jon
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Best IMHO would be a 200tdi. Relatively easy to fit, easy to come by at low cost and offers a good increase in power over the series engines whilst not being too heavy and screwing up the handling.
I'm told the old montego turbo diesel conversion is also good, but the engines have got to be getting hard to find now as most old montegos must have been scrapped long ago!
Jon
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Les,
Sounds to me like you've got a dodgy master cylinder. Firstly have you checked the free play of the pedal?
I've heard of problems before with cheapo pattern parts with things like misaligned holes that dont allow the plungers to return correctly and hence the fluid doesnt get through as it should do.
Jon
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No worries.
Right.......
Salisbury rear is good, and about as strong as you can get from the factory. I'm no expert on them however so I'm unsure quite how much abuse they can put up with.
Front diffs are all the same from the factory. 88" and 109" are both exactly the same. I've no idea what you've got though as I've never come accross anything different. The only exception is a 109" 1 tonne which is a very rare beast indeed!
All series axles are 4.7 ratio. The only ones that were 3.54 were the stage1 V8's.
Steering arms are all the same part 88" or 109". If you've got some 88" ones then swap em over. You cant swap em top to bottom as the bearings etc are different sizes top and bottom. However early series 2's had top steer arms so if you can find the bits it is possible to change em over. However as they're curved it puts the track rod in virtually the same place anyway so you wont gain very much.
Jon
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205x16 is the standard size for a range rover, which you should be able to get from anywhere. I think 205x16 actually equates to 205 / 80 r16.
Where did you get 205/75 R16 from?
IIRC that truck had 225/75R16's on it simply cos they were what I had lying around. 225/75 have the same rolling diameter but are very slightly wider.
Jon
series body onto defender chassis
in Series Forum
Posted
Er.........why bother??????
Next to sod all will fit!
Starting at the front......series wings wont fit.
Doors will fit.
You'll need defedner seatbox and floor panels and trans tunnel.
Series rear tub wont fit. (too short).
Series screen wont fit the defedner bulkhead and the roof will be too short.
Back door will fit.
Cant see what you'll gain by using series panels. Why not just fit defender ones then its a nuts and bolts job!
Jon