Jump to content

Jon White

Settled In
  • Posts

    2,541
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by Jon White

  1. Is the rear axle a salisbury or not? If its a salisbury it'll be 24 spline both ends and fairly strong. If its a rover axle it'll be 10 spline inners and you'll snap halfshafts like twiglets.

    Fronts should be 24 spline outer (but might be 10 spline) and will be 10 spline inner. Fronts are fairly strong, but you'll snap the inner ends of the inner shafts with those tyres.

    Standard rover diffs are 2 pin. You'll also break 4.7 ring and pinions for a hobby.

    I run 33's with ARB lockers front and rear and have broken no end of shafts, diffs etc. IMHO with lockers 33" is about the sensable limit on rover axles as things just arent strong enough!

    Anything much bigger than 33" and you're on very very borrowed time with standard series axles.

    Axle can easily be converted to LHD by simple swapping the steering arms over for LHD ones.

    If you're going to run the axles SOA check that propshafts are actually possible, as with parabolics the u/j's on my props bind before i've reached full travel and I'm not running SOA. I'm already running hi-angle ones!

    HTH

    Jon

  2. And another thing.............brakes!!!! Standard drums are barely up to stopping the standard vehicle! You need to think about disks all round IMHO!

    Also clutch - you'll need a paddle clutch to put that sort of power down!

    Cheers

    Jon

  3. Sigh............dont try to run before you can walk!

    Right........

    LT85 will put the gear lever somewhere in the vicinity of the middle of the seat box, and will push the transfer box back so far you'll have propshaft clearance problems. IMHO you'd be better off fitting an defender LT77 with a 4 pot bellhousing and an adaptor plate as the whole lot is several inches shorter. You'd also be better off fitting the LT230 too than the archaic series transfer box. LT85 was never fitted to range rovers by the way - that'd be the LT77 which is unsuitable as the gear lever is even further back!

    Whilst you can fit uprated diffs and ring and pinions, series uprated halfshafts are not easily available. They can be imported from the states or Aus at (very) great expense but arent easily available. Anything more than a standard 3.5 on carbs and you're into problems with drive train strength (been there done that!)

    Also think about how the hell you're going to keep things cool! Theres not alot of room in the front of a lightweight for bigger rads!

    Finally do not even consider fitting either of those carbs to your engine. They are both awful things that do not like running at angles etc, or cause misfiring when cornering at speeds even if you do fit the "off road" kits to them!I wouldnt consider fitting anythig othe than efi to an engine with that spec. Otherwise if you simply stick to a standard 3.5 the standard twin su's or strombergs are good if in good condition and well adjsuted.

    HTH

    Jon

  4. Rog, for what's at risk, I would contact an industrial supplier and buy or order a softer, self lubricating material. Ultra machinable brass is self lubricating and $5.

    http://www.mcmaster.com/

    No - brass is not suitable. The first one I did i used a lump of brass thinking exactly this and I found the slipper pad wore very very quickly and the shards of brass rubbed off contaminated the oil. Phosphor bronze is much more suitable.

    Jon

  5. Well you'd think that wouldnt you........

    Trouble is these are plainly not uk spec so therefore have to be SVA'd as the type approval only covers the uk spec machines. I'm told landrover get away with it basically becasue the defender has been in production for so long it predates some of the legislation.

    Bear in mind that a UK spec defender will not pass the enchanced SVA unmodified. It gets into silly silly things like the switches on the dashboard being too sharp etc etc

    Jon

  6. The export only thing as exactly as someone has said - type approval. These can be run in the UK, but are subject to an SVA. However as they are new vehicles you have to get through the enhanced SVA (not the much less stringent one people who build hybrids etc take).

    They can get through this, but there is a surprising amount of work required to get them through. They get as anal as having to fill all the unused holes in the rear crossmembers with rubber gromets due to the sharp edges. Simply putting bolts in the holes wont do as the bolt heads themselves have sharp edges...........thats just the tip of the iceberg!!!!

    Jon

  7. Agree - I did my own and I reckon the machining and welding alone took me more than 4 hours. Add some time in for stripping and re-building the diff and you're into an awful lot for your money!

    Bear in mind phosphor bronze aint cheap either! The slipper pad is also quite an awkward little chape to make and theres a fair amount of machining in making that alone!

    I dont agree with whoever says properly set up diffs dont break. I broke so many ring and pinions before pegging, and after pegging havnt had a single breakage. I had my diffs set up by the guy who does Jez's Volvo ones, so you're not telling me that they werent set up right - they're just not strong enough! I broke one on 7.50 muds on a standard 2.25 petrol engine for gawds sake!

    Jon

  8. Yup - well worth it. Both of mine are pegged as I was breaking a diff per outing at one time!

    Not hard to do if you've access to the necessary kit and materials, but if not I'd be paying Ashcrofts.

    If you do decide to do it yourself you need to ensure you use phosphor bronze for the slipper pad.

    Jon

  9. Same date as L2B!!!

    Sorry but I really dont see the attraction in sitting in traffic queues on a motorway in a landrover to go to such a godforsaken place as Brighton! And when you get there all they seem to do is park up on the sea front and take in all the pikey northerners who go there on holiday whilst admiring each others shiney bits. (ooh err!)

  10. Hi All

    I am new to this forum so please be gentle.

    I used the series sender and an adapter from a 2.5 petrol.I find the gauge reads correct, but as stated above the TDI runs a little warmer.Just have to get used to the needle sitting at three quarters.

    Hope this helps.

    Bill

    Exactly what I use, however I replaced the naff votlage regulator thingy with a 9v voltage regulator to drop the reading on the gauge slightly. Mine now sits nicely in the middle at normal running temp.

    Jon

  11. Rob,

    So would you advise against buying the bearmach kit??

    I ask as I'm running mine in permanent 4wd at the moment and I've been toying with buying the part time kit. Frankly mine doesnt kick back through the steering too badly (only really when on full lock) so I'm not entirely sure its worth bothering with.

    Jon

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy