Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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I used an entire defender column.
IMHO its a waste of time and effort messing about modifying things to fit when an off the shelf column will more or less bolt straight up. The standard series bulkhead suppport still fits, but you need to fabricate an upper column support bracket behind the dash as it is on a defender otherwise the top of the column moves about too much. I used the lower column unmodified.
Those bolt on kits are horrible. If you've ever driven one with one fitted adn then compared it to one fitted witha defender set up there is no comparison. The defender one gives less turns lock to lock, and also due to the lack of extra joints and linkages in the system gives much more precise steering. That kit just gives you power assisted vague steering. Finally the kit is expensive, where the other conversion can be done with scrap yard parts.
Tonk had one of these kits fitted to his truck for a while, but immediately he drove my truck with a defender based set up on it took it off and fitted the same as me.
Jon
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Not quite PC nonsense! My understanding is that people are missing the point.
AWDC have introduced this ruling for Safari racing only. This has been made due to the excessive damage that was being done to the ground by competitors running on diamonds. This has been made worse by the loss of a number of sites, and the charges imposed by the landowners for making good the ground after an event.
To the best of my knowledge there are no plans afoot to limit tyre sizes/patterns any further than this.
However IMHO there is no excuse for going out laning on Simex's. They casue unacceptable damage to the ground, and if the terrain of the lanes are such that you need simex to get through the lane, then quite frankly you shouldnt be driving them! The anti's have more than enough ammunation to use against us at the moment!
Jon
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4mm ?? for an A frame mount?
eek
8mm minimum for a portal truck, and a whole heap of horsepower to nail it together, the peeling is a product of torque - not the A frame ball joint,
I'm glad I wasnt the only one thinking that! I think even on a standard rangie its thicker than 4mm!
Jon
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Bet you wish you ordered the right sender unit now then? :-)
Its either that or 1/8BSP I cant rememeber which, but they're so close that either will fit.
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Thats cos you've got the wrong thread! 200tdi is M10x1 IIRC. M10x1 is so close to 1/8BSP that it'll screw in however.
You're best bet IMHO is to do away with the T piece and standard low pressure switch and replce it with the correct threaded VDO sender. VDO do some nice sender unit that incorporate a low pressure switch for your warning light aswell. This is what i run and hence dont need a T piece.
Jon
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I've had one of these apart and it was an absolute piggy! Invovled it clamping in a sodding great vice, me holding a large "drift" and hybrid from hell beating the carp out of the thing with a sledge hammer! They're very very well engineered and hence everythign is a very very good fit!
I'd agree with Nige. Leave it well alone and put it all back together again. Fill with the correct grade of oil, grease all the linkages and just leave it well alone. You wont break it.
Check the U/J's and especially the slider. I've never seen a slider that wasnt completely knackered so ended up making a new one for mine.
I never broke a shear pin in all the time I had mine.
PG winches is about the only source for spares, but they're not easy to come by or cheap. If you need spares you're better off either making parts or aquiring a broken winch to use as a source of spares.
Jon
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Wot springs u running as this makes a big difference to what shocks you choose?
Jon
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Its a complete strip down of the LT77 basically.
IMHO mainshafts are not expensive, and therefore I'd change the shaft every time. Welding and grinding the splines is a horrible way of doing it.
In short to strip the box the only thing you need a special tool for is for removing the oil seal collar off the back of the box. The rest can be done with stnadard tools and a decent gear puller. If you're methodical its easy to do. You simply need to be careful when shimming the box to put it back together again. Its all shown in the haynes manual for the range rover and give you all the clearances etc.
I've done loads of them. Its well worthwhile chaecking the rest of the box over whilst you've got it apart and checking all the synchros, baulk ring clearances etc.
Jon
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If the mainshaft moves and the gear doesnt it sounds badly worn! Sounds like you're gonna need a mainshaft and an input gear.
If you take the inspection plate off the back of the box, then take the bearing carrier off you should be able to remove the gear out the rear of the housing to inspect the splines. I think you'll find they're knackered!
Jon
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Wot he said!
Military ones are longer.
Jon
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Yeah quite agree - they were lethal in the wet!! They also howled like crazy on the road. Werent bad in the mud though.
As someone else has said I believe these are no longer in production, which IMHO is no bad thing cos they were dangerous in the wet!
Jon
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Yeah quite agree - they were lethal in the wet!! They also howled like crazy on the road. Werent bad in the mud though.
As someone else has said I believe these are no longer in production, which IMHO is no bad thing cos they were dangerous in the wet!
Jon
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If you're looking ofr a good quality high pressure and high flor water pump I can recommend the headlamp washer pump from an RRC or a disco. They have the added bonus of coming ready attached to a suitable washer bottle to boot. The headlamp washer pump with the hose disconnected can empty the tamk in about ten seconds with a hell of a lot of pressure.
NOS actually isnt such a stupid idea Nige, but the issue comes in providing the extra fuelling, as its really hard with a mechanical injector pump to shove the extra fuel thats required in at the right timing! I cant see why it wouldnt be possible with a TD5 say or something with electronic injection.
Jon
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I used B+Q's "value" worktop and mounted it onto a 3x2" frame.
Its had 2 years of abuse so far and is still in good nick. No complaints about it at all, and at less than £20 a length you cant go wrong. When it wears out I'll simply replace it.
Jon
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IMHO you'd be best off just bolting on a set of 7x16" aftermarket 8 spokes. Easily available in the states, work fine tubeless, and will have a little more offset than the standard landrover rims so you will be able to get a bit more steering lock. hey also bring the tyres out more or less level with the bodywork (rather than set in like they are as standard) which improves the looks.
Disco steelies will fit and are tubeless, but the stock offset is pants.
An 88" would have had 5" rims, a 109 5.5" rims and IIRC the 6" rims are off of a 130 or something like that.
No factory alloys will fit a series, and 99% of aftermarket ones wont fit either.
You either need to find some late defender rims, or go with 8 spokes.
As an aside I've run tubeless type tyres with tubes in them for years without problems. I've found running tubeless allows mud and sticks etc to get inbetween the tyre and the rim and causes constant air leaks. It gets tedious pumping your tyres up every day! With tubes in my tyres dont go down from one year to the next.
Jon
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Definately break it. If you cant do the work yourself your pissin in the wind.
Just price up the various repair sections you're going to require and it soom becomes uneconomical before you've even accounted for any time to fit them!
Jon
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a bit off topic but
how do you rate the drilled an groved disc's?? brake overhaul on mine will be comin up soon (should really slow down more or use them less :-) ) and been thinking about getting some but wasnt sure due to the fact mud etc can get in just wounded if it came out just as easy too and what there like under dirty conditions
thanks
dave
Utter waste of time. All the holes fill up with mud and crud, and it just means you eat brake pads even more quickly. Hybrid from hell fitted them to his 90 and has since said he regrets it. They're probably fine on a road only motor, but not for one that gets dunked in the mud.
Jon
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The way I see it is there are two different areas that ought to be tested.
One is with the winch under load, one with the winch not under load.
Not under load is easy. Starting with the cable fully spooled on the drum, cable must be spooled out (or freespooled if your winch is so equipped) to a point marked on the ground, and then retrieved fully spooled onto the drum against the clock. To my mind time spent spooling out and spooling back in slack is important.
Under load testing could be dragging a series of heavy objects over a given distance against the clock. If the object started lighter and gradually got heavier, then it would be an accurate test, especially if the whole thing was done against the clock, as it wouldnt give the batteries of the elctric winch boys time to re-charge etc.
This would be the easiest to set up in field as they could simply be big logs or big lumps of concrete etc.
i dont think drive assisting up an incline is a fair test of winches since different vehciles will have different tyres and therefore levels of grip etc. On the same not winching you vehicle up a slope isnt a fair test as they will all weigh a different amount. The only way to test it fairly is for all competitors to winch the same object about.
Jon
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200tdi disco lump into an 88" is a fairly straightforward swap.
I personally wouldnt bother coiling the series, especially if you're going to trial it. Well set up parabolics IMHO are a better set up than standard landrover coils, and actually give more articulation.
Jon
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Groan......
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New site for shires yes.
Terrain is very much like slab common - its used by the army for tank training. Very sandy with lots of trees aswell. Some water, but the wet sand tends to quickly turn to quicksand. There are a few steep climbs too if you know where to look for them.
Turning is off hogmoor road, not off the a325 - type the above grid ref into multimap.
Cheers
Jon
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Agreed - I've got the snap-on racks and find they're great cos you can take the whole set of spanners to a job if need be as they're not stuck down. They also have holes to allow them to be wall mounted if desired too. Snap-on do the moulded racks as in the photo above, aswell as the self adhesive rails that you trim down to fit. Surprisingly they're not that expensive - I think the moulded racks are only about 6 or & quid.
I've also got the snap-on socket rails and find them excelletn for the same reasons - keep things nicely in order, you can easily pick the whole set up, and best of all if you drop it you dont spend the rest of the day putting all the sockets back in their respective holes like you do every time you drop a socket set!
Jon
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SU786351
Its kinda hard to spot the entrances as its really just a gap in the bushes at the end of a fence.
Also if its wet be warned that the car park is definately NOT non 4x4 friendly, and its a very tight turn off the road on soft ground. You cant really get transporters in, and trailered vehicles will need to be towed by a good 4x4 as I've seen road going discos get stuck whilst trying to tow trailers into the entrance here if its wet!
Secondly there is large pikey campsite just over the road, so please ensure anything you leave in the car park is well bolted down or locked up!
Cheers
Jon
gearbox mainshaft renewal?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I've done loads of them.
You need a special tool to remove/refit the oil seal collar on the rear of the mainshaft, but once this is done its all relatively easy, and can be achieved with standard tools and a decent gear puller. You need to accurately shim the unit as you re-assemble it, but the full landrover manual can be downloaded from various places on the net which gives you all the instructions and clearances that you need in order to sort it all out yourself.
If you're methodical its fairly easy. Ensure that you stip, clean and inspect all the components carefully and replace whatever is necessary. It works best if you're unsure to lay all the components out in order on a clean workbench to ensure you cant re-assemble it wrong.
Just make sure you get the synchro hubs back together correctly, and its easy to get the selectors in wrong until you've sussed out how they're supposed to work!
Jon