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EeEk

Getting Comfortable
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About EeEk

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  1. I used a grinder to remove just enough to allow them to turn....never been a problem since
  2. what ive done in the past is disconnect the intake pipe somewhere between the intercooler and the inlet manifold....drive it and the boost blows out all the oil.....messy but fast. you do need a power washer though
  3. Welded 100s of cars and never disconnect the battery Ive welded exhausts with the engine running to make sure theres no leaks Ive never had an electrical issue but did set fire to a sierra seatbelt when welding a sill once, that was a wee bit off a bonfire inside the door pillar
  4. if the number is stamped on the chassis thats all you need to be legal
  5. Dont know if it makes a difference....the theory suggests it would. I did it and a few fuel pump tweeks to my last 300tdi before I put it on the road so dont know what it would have been like before I fiddled with it ....maybe better Dont know about that. I had a boost gauge and it went straight to just over 1bar no bother. But again I suppose if the waste gate didnt start to move until 1bar you;d have a few seconds more of full pressure. I do have a turbosmart boost controller that I never fitted to the last one....I'll have to dig it out once I get this 300tdi on the road
  6. the lights that light up the speedo temp fuel ? They are on a switch down at the rh side of the dash. The interior light switch/dash light
  7. Ive heard the easy way is cut it in half and fit it in then weld it back together. DOnt know if you'd get it in with the rear footwell floor removed.... it would have to be half removed anyway to remove/lift the tub. I have changed both that x members but the tub was off anyway. Which wasn't that bad. unbolted and removed the rear door and rear side panels, just lifted the roof a few mm to get the panels out...then tub off.
  8. I used disco pipes same as Litch, cut them and joined at the flex bit with hose clips....theres no great pressure in it. Theres no reason a normal manual brake pedal wont pass the Mot test. I have a rangerover converted to auto I use for offroading....it passes with a normal pedal, still has the clutch pedal fitted too just in case I go back to manual
  9. Nothing like giving yourself a hard time.... The electricity doesn't care what colour the insulation is
  10. Couldn't tell you the threads, I just found something that fitted....but.....while your at it.... What you should do is plumb the waste gate to that connection and plug the port at the turbo....that gives you 1 bar of boost at that end of the inlet manifold before the waste gate opens rather than 1 bar at the turbo
  11. Think they are just M8 bolts. They have allen key heads? Mine did anyway....they were tight and did think they might snap but as soon as they moved they came out no bother
  12. The one with the 4 holes fits to the top of the throttle lever on the pump....its a rough copy of a proper bracket. 2mm steel cut out with a plasma cutter and bent in a vice. The other is just bits of brackets...the original bracket bolts on to the rear of the pump...i didn't want to disturb the bolts in case of leaks so my bracket fits on to the pump mounting bolt. I`ll get you some pics of the genuine brackets and my home made ones fitted tomorrow so you can see the setup.
  13. yes its the crank sensor....no use if you have a non edc pump. Just put a 300tdi/auto from a disco in to a defender but no fancy ashcroft kit here. I did copy the kickdown brackets from another one I have as I thought the ashcroft ones were a bit much for 2 bits of metal with some holes in. The pics there are more of the accelerator cable. The disco cable will be fine....the brackets to connect it to the pump ....youv1e discovered them
  14. Very different but the chassis legs are the same width apart.
  15. air in the fuel check for leaks drawing air in to the fuel line somewhere, run it from a gravity tank
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