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I used rear drum stubs, early 110 front hubs, 110 solid front disc, 110 rear caliper, brackets, spacer between bracket and the axle.

engine mounts are very different. The easy option would be to cut the brackets off what ever the engine come out of and weld them to the chassis.

Set it to 1.6 with your dial gauge

Is it really overheating or is it just the gauge that says it overheats. Are the transmitter and gauge matched.

TD5s have had an immobiliser bypass box for years.

Ok anyone know anything about body module / immibiliser / ecu....specifically the immoiliser signal to ecu. I know how it works....the ecm wont start the engine unless it gets the required answer from the body module v8 and td5 both work the same way...the ecm needs the signal from the bcm To the question....are the body modules the same? Give or take part numbers....is it the same signal that is sent back to the ECMs? obviously paired with each other. I have a small box the emulates the BCM signal for a TD5 to allow it to run standalone. Will this same emulator work with a v8 ECM. Or who sells a v8 immibiliser emulator.

Id take it all out complete from the front. Have done it with 300tdis and v8s on defender and RRC. Front antiroll bar needs unbolted if you have one, v8 exhaust front pipes need to come off to pass the engine mountings Disco ones out the front if its scrap....cut the landing panel off. Ive taken gear boxes out when the engines has been staying in....none have slid out under the chassis. Needed to raise the chassis a good few inches to get them out.

get a propshaft socket << get one off these If they are destroyed you can easilly cut the heads off the bolts with a grinder

I have 300tdi, 4hp22, 1.2 all from a disco in mine. Also same size tyres. I have that problem Im thinking 35" tyres and a 1.6 transfer box unless a rotton td5 auto disco shows up

I just welded it back together with 4 wee welds where the rivets were.

I have a disco 300tdi and autobox in a 90. The disco oil cooler pipes are a few of inches to long to be a direct fit. Ive used them but cut and joined at the rubber part.

Going by the pics the engine has been hot Back to the start...white smoke = air in the fuel Oil in the intake....theres always oil in the intake pipes. Ive never seen an intercooler/pipes without oil in them even almost new stuff. There is always oil vapor in the system from the breather. All engines breath even brand new ones Id put it all back together, fix your valve seals and drive it. Is it worth trying to fix something thats as knackered that it can be bored without liners when you can pick up a second hand engine thatll be as good as new.

ANy oil in the cylinders arrived there when the engine was off....if it was running the oil would be burnt.....thats what diesels are. Oil burners Must have ran in from the valve stems or the inlet manifold....it didnt run up hill I blown head gasket...near no 8 push rod is common and blows oil through the breather in to the intake. or just blow by in a worn engine. or Turbo worn. Heater plugs are of no importance unless you live in the artic. My 300tdi starts white with frost straight away in North Scotland and the heater plugs arent even wired up.

No point in having any lockers if you dont have tyres.....get decent tyres....not BFG...and run them at a low pressure.

You take the 3 wire part off by removing the sheer bolts and theres a normal stop solenoid unerneath it